POWERGO MOTORSPORT 1152403820 1-1/2 x 2-5/8 inches 304 Stainless Steel Shorty Headers for C1500 C2500 K1500 K2500 Suburban Blazer Jimmy Tahoe Yukon | 5.0 5.7 305 350 V8

I installed these headers on a 1995 Chevy C2500 pickup with a 5.7L. Headers arrived quickly and they were packaged well. The price was unbelievable and they are made very well. I ended up buying these because they said the flanges were 7/16" thick and they claimed the flanges went through a flattening process. I found other headers that were about $25 cheaper, but they had thinner flanges and didn't say they were flattened. I was willing to spend a tad more for a smoother install, and the headers fit perfectly! They lined up with the downstream exhaust too! FYI, they will turn a bronze color within seconds. Not a big deal to me. There were no install instructions, but I was able to find a similar product on Summit Racing (for 3 times the price) and they have install instructions that you can download (.pdf) for free. I would recommend doing this. I would also recommend purchasing shorter spark plugs to give you additional room, spark plug wires that are meant to be used with headers, spark plug heat sleeves and for the love of all things holy you'll need a power steering pump pulley removal/install tool. If you're as lucky as I was you will break the freakin' pulley and have to cut the damn thing off. Yes as you can see from the photos I had to get a new power steering pump and pulley...oops. The kit comes with spacers and longer bolts for the spark plug wire loom brackets and the dipstick bracket, but the threads of the bolts didn't match the threads in the engine block. I cut about 1/2" off the bottom of each bracket and reinstalled them in the factory location with the factory hardware. I feel this is the right thing to do especially for the dipstick tube because if the mounting location moves away from the engine it changes the geometry and won't sit flush in the hole in the engine. I didn't use the spacer for the power steering pump bracket or the bolts for attaching the headers to the engine. The bolts that come with the headers will work just fine, but I wanted something with an ARP look. Instead I purchased a threaded stud, spacer, nut and bolts/washers from McMaster-Carr costing around $35.00. Here are the part numbers for each piece: 91271A626, 94358A340, 92871A364, 95229A490 and 9075A350. Again, these parts are not required to install the headers. From underneath the truck, when you remove the exhaust from the stock manifolds the studs may come out instead of the nut. If this happens you'll have to cut them. I found out you don't need to reuse the springs so cutting the nut off and spring will be much easier than cutting off the opposite end. That took a bit of time. It took me about 2 solid days to install, but hopefully the info I've posted here will reduce that for you. Enjoy!

I put these on a 1995 Tahoe 5.7 TBI 4wd.Fitment was perfect.If your bolts are rusty, or even worse, rust welded to the manifold, spend a few days oiling them. I prefer using old motor oil, it doesn't evaporate like other stuff and will stay wet until you run your truck. She's gonna smoke like an 80 year old on bingo night, but it beats breaking a bolt or stud off in the head.You'll need to remove the brackets on both sides that hold the plug wire clips. There are spacers included that work to bolt the brackets on after you install the headers. None of the included bolts worked to bolt the brackets back on, so you may need to pick up a few longer bolts.You'll obviously need to unbolt the oil dipstick tube. You do NOT, and I repeat DO NOT need to remove or relocate the tube. Unbolt it, swivel it toward the right fender, and you can work the dipstick tube in between the 6 and 8 primaries. When you get up to the dipstick bracket you'll need to move the header and tube around a little bit, I had to bend the tube very slightly but it will fit without any cutting, removal of the tube, or any other modifications.I would suggest using some anti-seize, and tighten the bolts evenly. Upgrading to studs would be a good idea, and I highly suggest changing your plugs before putting the headers on. Wires with 90 degree boots should be used. Wire insulators wouldn't hurt either.I included a few pictures showing where I used the spacers to keep the stock location of the clip for the #1 & 3 plug wires and cts wire, and the dipstick tube.

I bought these to replace another brand that had one of the header pipes crack within a year of purchase. Right off thes were much better built. Bolted right up no issues. My only suggestion, buy a set of Felpro header gaskets.the supplied ones are not the best and you have to fully unbolt the headers to replace. You will have to modify your Y pipe. I cut approximately 1.5 inches off the drivers side horizontal cross over. Your dimensions may vary. The dipstick will need to be repositioned. And the upper bracket on left side also.(alternator/power steering).

I used all hardware supplies except the small bolts and weird spacers and piece of Pipe.Everything snugged up nicely with a little fine maneuvering of a 7/16th wrench and a 1/4” ratchet with a wobble extension.I do hear some exhaust leak from the gasket. Recommend some exhaust gasket sealer around the gasket. Avoid like I’ll have to do and take it all back off...Alrighty then ass you can see I had to modify the power steering and alternator bracket. You don’t have todo like I did and remove the whole bit of you don’t want to. Enjoy the sparks and Cut the mama jams off with the angle grinder!Overall a great buy and would definitely purchase again! The quality is top for what cool money

The media could not be loaded.  I believe the specs stated this would not fit my 96 Suburban K1500 5.7L. I took a chance and am glad I did. This things were very well built and gorgeous for the price. The bolted right up without any modifications and fit beautifully. I did bypass the EGR Recirculating Tube off the Drivers side header though and left the plug in. So all in all they sound beautiful and look beautiful!!! I am extremely happy with them!!!!! I also replaced the Y Pipe with a Walker 3” Y Pipe, no Cats, into a FlowMaster Series 10. You can hear how it sounds in the video!!!