K2: Life and Death on the World's Most Dangerous Mountain Kindle Edition

The world’s second highest peak was designated “K2” by 19th-century British surveyors, and the name stuck--apparently because local peoples, most of whom had never seen the mountain, had not given it a name. For climbers, it is extremely challenging—over one three-year period, 15 expeditions attacked K2 without putting a single climber on its summit. Although the subtitle refers to K2 as “the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain,” the subtitle of a more recent Viesturs book calls Annapurna “the World’s Deadliest Peak.” Certainly, both are among the most dangerous.Ed Viesturs is one of the top high altitude climbers in the world. In his discussion of the literature about mountain climbing expeditions, Viesturs notes the trend from the no-dirty-linen approach to the tell-all approach. It seems his writing lies somewhere in between these two. He makes few negative comments on climbers’ personalities; but offers carefully reasoned evaluations of why an expedition succeeded or failed, and points out instances of incompetence or heroism. And he gives full credit to the Sherpas and to certain Sherpas in particular. In his words, the book might be called, “Lessons Learned from K2.”Relying on publications, including those of previous climbers, and his own experiences, Viesturs, aided by co-author David Roberts, describes how he reached the summit in 1992, and provides accounts of what he considers the six “most dramatic seasons in the mountain’s history.” The American expeditions of 1938, 1939, and 1953, the Italian expedition of 1954, the disastrous summers of 1986 and 2008, and Viesturs’ 1992 climb, are each subjected to careful analysis. Viesturs’ account of his 1992 climb is basically a re-written version of what he wrote in No Shortcuts to the Top—although each version contains personal details omitted from the other.K2 provides brief, but insightful, comments on the evolution of climbing gear. Over the decades covered in this book, the introduction of oxygen, headlamps, and radio, and improvements in food, clothing, boots, ropes, ice axes, pitons, and sleeping bags have brought significant changes in climbing strategies. The book also deals with the logistical problems of organizing expeditions and the high altitude illnesses some climbers experience. Viesturs stresses the importance of physical conditioning, route marking, prompt starts and early turnarounds on summit attempts, and cautious decision making. He dislikes the commercialization of climbing and some climbers’ use of modern technology to make up for inadequate climbing skills. He generally prefers to climb without oxygen or fixed ropes. His approach emphasizes self reliance; but he is appalled by those who fail to assist sick or injured climbers because they might have to sacrifice their own plans to do so.K2 has a useful index, and some great photographs. But it needs more detailed photos or drawings and maps. Many readers have a general knowledge of Mount Everest and the routes to its summit; but few have similar knowledge of K2. (This review is based on the paperback version of K2—the endpapers of the hardback version evidently included some of Dee Molenaar’s drawings and maps that were omitted from the paperback version, although they are cited in its index.)We are warned in the initial chapter that the book is not organized chronologically. In fact, the authors’ descriptions of years on K2 appear in the following order: 2008, 1992, 1938, 1939, 1953, 1954, and 1986. The authors place brief descriptions of the 1902 and 1909 expeditions in the third chapter. Chapter titles (e.g., “Decision,” “Brotherhood”) do not indicate a chapter’s subject. And the initial paragraphs in a chapter may not clarify its focus. For example, the chapter on the 1953 American expedition begins with an 8-page discussion of Viesturs’ life and interest in climbing. If there were reasons for this stream-of-consciousness writing style, the authors do not bother to present them. Within this questionable organizational scheme, however, the text is highly readable. Much of the information in K2 was drawn from other publications, and readers interested in a particular expedition may wish to read books about that expedition. But few will want to read all of the 25 books and 20 articles listed in the bibliography; for them, Viesturs’ thoughtful distillation of this literature and his critical evaluation of his sources will provide, at the least, an excellent introduction to this subject. Viesturs has followed up K2 with similar books about Annapurna [The Will to Climb (2011)] and Everest [The Mountain (2013)].

I'm not a mountain climber, but being from the Seattle area I am quite familiar with Ed Viesturs and the fact that he is in the elite club of climbers to have scaled all 14 8,000M mountains in the world. Howerver, that is not what prompted me to read this book. I was discussing with a work colleague about challenges with two opposite and conflicting forces at work --- patience and impatience. He suggested this book because he said there was much to learn from Viesturs and the sport of mountain climbing on this topic. In that regard, "K2: L&D" delivered in spades, but it was fascinating for more than just that.This book recaps six seasons of climbing on what is probably the world's most challenging and dangerous mountain, including Viestur's first ascent of K2 in 1992. Others have complained that Viestur's essentially covers ground that other climbers have already covered in their books. While this is probably true, for a non-climber like me, I appreciated Viestur's summary of some of the more famous and tragic years climbing K2. I was never going to read a lengthy list of books by other climbers and a condensed account was sufficient to get enough depth for this reviewer. While the editing was not great --- there were plenty of redundant areas and parts that transitioned in odd ways, this book was thoroughly captivating. Viestur's paints dramatic differences between Everest and K2, most notably the greater risk inherent in K2 -- the ratio of summits/deaths is 19/1 for Everest but 4/1 for K2. Reading this book, you develop a keen sense that Viestur's has a healthy respect and awe for K2. While some may argue that he pats himself on the back quite a bit and is a bit cock, I'd be surprised if these weren't qualities most men and women who climb 8,000M mountains possess. You don't push your boundaries or nature's boundaries without having a healthy degree of self-confidence.Back to the reason I read this book. There certainly are lessons on patience/impatience to be learned from Viestur. Most decisions at high-altitude have life and death consequences and Viestur's has learned when the time is right to push for the summit and when reaching the summit is just not going to happen without exponentially increasing the odds that he won't survive. Clearly, he has found the right balance between these dichotomies.This is a fast and easy read and will leave you breathless in places. So grab your supplemental oxygen and be prepared for one death defying adventure on top of the world.

Livro me surpreendeu positivamente, não esperava esse nivel de informação sobre a longa historia do K2.Leitura obrigatoria para que montanhistas .

I thought this book was about Ed Viesturs' K2 expedition in 1992, but it's a history of K2 (including his own experience). It's very interesting with a very unusal structure. I enjoyed it! Thumbs up!

I liked it.

This is the second book of Ed, I have read. And this was simply superb. Just couldn’t wait to read till the end. Not only his own account n K2 but also about the other expeditions are also well written with very good insights. Loved every page of this book!

Bel libro