Bed 3D Printer,3D Printer Bed,JEANTRIX Rmovable Spring Steel Magnetic 3D Printer Heated Bed in 235x235mm Included 1 PC PEI Sheet(3M Adhesive Backing)

At first I was disappointed because I could not get the prints to stick, even after removing the protective film ;-) .I then scuffed the PEI using some 0000 steel wool and alcohol. Now the prints sticks very well, and also come off easily by vending the spring steel plate a couple of times.It would have been nice if there was some protruding flaps to make it easier to remove the spring steel plate from the magnetic bed.

The shipment, spring steel are fine. The quality of the steel and surface finish is good. But the edges of the spring steel sheet are sharp.As for the PEI..... it doesn't feel like pei. It's too smooth and PLA DOES NOT STICK TO IT. Temp doesn't matter. I've releveled my bed, used 91% isopropyl alcohol, denatured alcohol, acetone. Steel wool. Nothing works. The only way I've gotten things to stay on the bed is to use a very large brim.It's not a leveling issue. I use unified bed leveling on a heavily modified Ender3 and babystepping after my prints. Lines are laid down cleanly, they just start to pull up during moves. Yes I removed both the 3M sticker backing and the clear sheet of plastic from the bed after installation. It's not that.The PEI is also abnormally thin. The 3M adhesive is thicker.

The media could not be loaded.  I absolutely love this thing. In my opinion, simply the best bed you can get. I use it on the Ender 3. I print PLA, ABS, Nylon, PETG, and even Polycarbonate with it.Generally speaking, you need to scuff up the surface with sandpaper or steel wool. It can work without scuffing but it generally works better if you do.For PLA, I run 65C for the first 4 layers, then 45C for the rest of the print. For ABS, I run 110C for the entire print. For PETG, I run 90C for the first 4 layers, then 85C for the rest of the print. For Nylon, you must put glue stick (Elmers Disappearing Purple) for it to stick. Nylon basically doesn't stick to anything and unfortunately PEI is no exception. For Polycarbonate, it's a similar story to Nylon. Polycarbonate will stick, but not very strongly and it will have a tendency to warp with larger flat prints. Works fine with no additional adhesives on smaller pieces though. Generally I recommend the stock Ender 3 bed (BuildTak knockoff) or real BuildTak. Be careful with your Z-Offset though - it sticks so well that it might rip the BuildTak up with it if you have too much squish.If I have one complaint about the bed, it's that the included PEI sheet is super thin, and can be easily torn, scratched, cut, or have pieces ripped off when removing a stubborn print. When mine finally got so torn up that it was unusable, I got a 0.5mm thick piece from Gizmo Dorks, and it's been great. A bit more robust and will likely last longer.Since the regular Ender 3 doesn't have a magnetic bed normally, I bought some 0.5mm thick ferrite magnetic sheets from Amazon and stuck them onto the bed, and the steel sheet sticks great to it. It works great as far as I can see. Since ferrite magnets have a very high curie temperature, there should be no issues with the magnets losing strength, even when printing at ABS or Polycarbonate temperatures. With the magnets, finally, I was able to get rid of using binder clips.Highly, highly, HIGHLY recommend this bed! Even if you don't go through the trouble of putting magnets on your bed, even with binder clips, it's so worth it. Just print, pull the bed off, flex it, boom part pops right off. Wonderful.

When I heated this bed with the pei sheet on the side indicated, it warped and distorted the metal bed surface, leaving a surface that leaves divots in the base of my prints. The pei sheet is very thin and immediately tore so it wasn't useful. It's probably better to just use the metal sheet. In any case it is not a good product overall.

Quick delivery! Amazing build sheet! The spring steel plate is incredibly flat, the PEI sheet is thinner then my previous PEI sheets but it honestly made it easier to apply to the spring steel. It made manyally releveling my bed the easiest it has ever been!The flexible base plate being magnetic also allowed me to get rid of my clips and essentially gave me back 30mm in both x and y. (Luckily I had some really strong circular magnets in the shop)

Pei is the best... would be better if pei came applied to the fl3x plate.

Too small for Creality 10s

This is a very good set. I have had no problems getting good results. I have printed PLA and PETG so far. PLA at 60C bed temp and PETG at 75C bed temp. For PLA, roughing up the bed with 0000 steel wool or a scotchbrite pad then cleaning with alcohol will improve adhesion. I print the first layer at 15mm/sec to prevent curling or pulling the filament. You also want a good squish with PLA and no squish with PETG.