Accessory Picatinny Lower Front Rail Hi-Point 995TS, 3895TS, 4095TS, 4595TS & 1095TS Aluminum Black

If you own the Hi-Point .45 carbine, it's not a matter of "will the front rail fall off?", it's "WHEN will the front rail fall off?" - it's a great little rifle, but the OEM rail is going to fall off at some point, likely after multiple cycles of relatively rapid firing at the range where the barrel heats up enough to soften the epoxy the factor uses to bond the rail to the barrel, especially if you have something like a laser hanging from the rail - that's exactly what happened to mine, rail popped off at the range and the laser was suddenly pointing several feet below the target. I'm an engineer, and after it happened I found this Aluminum (Al) replacement, decided to run some numbers on thermal expansion between the OEM thermoplastic rail, the steel barrel, and this Al part - was shocked to discover that the plastic will expand nearly 5 times as much as the barrel over a 150 degree temp rise***, while the Al part nearly matches the expansion of the barrel.Speaking of this Al part - it's an amazing feat of machining - the dimensional tolerances, flatness, and surface finish are top notch - I estimate accurate to less than 1 thousandth of an inch, which is almost unbelievable even with CNC machining - and it appears to be electropolished, no machining marks to be found anywhere - it fits perfectly - so perfectly I had to use a bit of graphite lube on the end that goes into the foregrip to install it. You will not find a better replacement for the OEM forward rail than this one, worth every penny. Not mentioned in the description is that it also comes with an extended set screw, nut, and washer, that replaces the rear OEM set screw for the front iron sights - that provides additional strength to hold the rail in place.*** When I removed the OEM rail, I found a thick layer of what looked like JB-Weld epoxy - not sure if it came from the factory that way, because I know I attempted to repair the rail once before, although only the front inch or two separated from the barrel, and there was a thick layer of epoxy over the entire length. Most epoxies will lose strength at elevated temps - to replace the head on a golf club you use a heat gun to soften the epoxy so you can remove the old head, which is what I did to scrape off the epoxy from the barrel after disassembling the rifle. BTW, if you've never taken yours apart, it's not exactly a simple job - the two pins that hold the receiver to the frame are a royal PITA to remove - the directions that come with the rifle say to push on the right side of the pins, then rotate the clips on the left side clockwise to pop the pins out. Only problem with that is the pins are also close tolerance parts, and mine wouldn't budge - tried using channel pliers, but of course the jaws of the pliers push on both ends of the pin because there's no offset, which gets you nowhere. Ended up using a steel plate on the right side with the pliers so I could squeeze the right side of the pins off-axis. Took me over an hour to disassemble the darn thing, but it went back together in minutes.I also used a few thin dabs of a high temp/high shear strength Loctite epoxy to help hold the rail in place, clamped it in place, let it cure overnight. Used epoxy because I don't want the front rail to ever move again - zeroing in a laser at the range at several distances is time consuming, and can't be done in the winter where I live - the only public outdoor range is closed in the winter, the indoor range I go to is only 25 yds deep, .45 ACP bullet drop is negligible at that distance. I also noticed that when I checked the laser against the optical sight in my basement after installing the new rail the laser was aimed WAY above the optics (had it dialed in with the OEM rail) - that's an indication of how thick the layer of epoxy was under the OEM rail, and how tightly this replacement rail fits the barrel - it raised the elevation of the laser about 3 ft over a distance of 40 ft (windage was unchanged, as should be expected).

The original one is made of plastic so it bows. This one is true and straight. And easy to install .

The rail looks good and of course you get rid of the droopy plastic weaver rail. No instructions on install so I will quickly mention once you got your upper off you will need to oil it a bit and use a wooden dowel with similar diameter as the barrel. I hit it a few times with a hammer and at first no progress but I took a file and took off just a sliver of polymer in the T area of the gun and the rail seated just fine. Mine had 2 pinpoint areas in the front where silver of the aluminum showed through. My eyes aren’t great but I just about lined up the ghost rings just right like it came from the factory.

I ordered two of these and put them on both of my carbines and I absolutely love the positive connection they make from the stock to the sight using the hardware provided. If you hate the ugly look of the warped factory rail I highly recommend these.

Okay so I have to say I may be going a little overboard with the accessories for my Hi Point 4595. However, I just can't get over the cheap polymer weaver-style rails that come with the gun. I just installed the lower front barrel rail purchased from this seller and I love it! It looks great. It fits great and most importantly it holds my tactical light solidly without flexing the rail. I now currently have purchased and installed the top rail, bottom rail and front lower barrel rail from this supplier. I have absolutely no regrets. I also purchased the open front sight and it works great with my back up iron sights. Obviously these are going to have some cost to them being that they are 100% custom made for this gun. It's absolutely worth it!

This rail fits the Hi Point 4595 TS perfectly. Much more durable than the composite rail

Stiff and difficult fit and no attachment on front end

Fits perfectly