Silverlite 8.5" PCB Size,10.2" Overall Size, LED Retrofit Kit Light Engine for Ceiling Fan Light,Flush Light,Pendant,Lantern and Garden light,40W,5000K,3500LM,120V,CRI80,Dimmable, UL Certified

We purchased 2 ceiling fans from Home Depot that had integrated LED light fixture (MERWRY LED 52 INCH CEILING FAN HD's Home Decorator brand Model #SW1422WH). Both of the LED's failed twice in both fans. Replaced them both under warranty within 3 months of purchase then about 3 or 4 months later they both failed too within 3 weeks of each other.Instead the hassle of taking down the two fans and replacing again and waiting for them to fail again in 3 months I found these Silverlite 4",17W,5000K,1300LM,120V,CRI80,Dimmable LED Light Engine,Retrofit Light Kits on Amazon for about $19. It came packaged well and I was very impressed with the quality of the LED fixture. Noticeably a much nicer design and build than what came in the HD fan. Of course the real test is will they last longer than 3 or 4 months. If they die too I will come back and update this review with far less Stars.If anyone is interested I included pictures of the retrofit of the light into this fan. It is not a straightforward replacement, which I did not expect, so you will need some minor handyman skills, but it is easy to do and took about 45 mins.

This worked out great for 1 fan that I went back and purchased two more for the other 2 fans I had. I recently purchased a 72 inch (Home Depot)Home Decorators Collection Kensgrove ceiling fan but dreaded the 3000K lighting module it had. left with no options from the manufacture, I found this option. very simple to change over as you can see you just disassemble both housings and reassemble with new lighting board (They are the same size physically) . I was only able to get 2 of the 3 screws to hold the light module in place, but it is so light, I am 100% certain it won't be moving anywhere. After relocating the module I clipped the connector off the old 3000K light module and soldered it to my new 5000K lighting module. plug it in and wola, the lighting is amazing. bright and no longer that dull yellow. I liked it so much and found it so easy to do, I helped my 14 year old son change one over himself for his room. great project that wasn't too complex to complete. I'd recommend for anyone with a Home Decorators Collection Kensgrove ceiling fan that dreads that 3000K light like I did, here is your chance to ditch it with something that is equivalent in size with better brightness and still maintaining dimmable options for your remote. I have this light module installed on a 54" 64" and 72" Home Decorations Kensgrove fans

I paid $13.99 on 12/21/2016 for the 4” 17W 3000K (warm color temp) model. I see from the options printed on the PCB that a wide range of other temps were at least planned, if not ever manufactured in quantity. I’d love to be able to buy this in 5000K, my favorite daylight color temperature.I’m very impressed with this “light engine”. It’s an ideal upgrade for any ceiling fixture that you have that you like enough to keep, but would like to bring into the LED era.This is an instant-on design. There is virtually no delay between switching it on and full light output. I’d imagine that inrush current is substantial, but I don’t own any proper tools to measure inrush (yet!).Build quality is simply excellent. Taking a close look at the circuit board, it’s one of the best I’ve seen in an LED light. Everything is clean, the surface-mount components are all very well aligned with their PCB pads, and the large capacitors are 105C rated. There is essentially NO flicker, verified with my “patented” Sony 59.94FPS rolling-shutter method. I did not test the dimming capabilities, so can’t vouch for the amount (if any) of flicker at lower input voltage.I used a special meter to measure the electrical characteristics of the module I received. Here’s what I measured, at a line voltage of 122VAC:Power used: 18.7 WattsCurrent: 164 milliampsPower factor: greater than .9 (excellent!)This light engine is made in two parts. The PCB (Printed Circuit Board) is round, and measures 3-15/16” (100mm) in diameter, close enough to the 4” nominal size.The PCB is attached via two small machine screws to a larger metal piece behind it, which measures:4-7/16” (113mm) across the smaller dimension5-⅜” (137mm) across the larger dimensionNote to advanced “hackers”:You CAN remove the PCB from the larger piece (backing plate), but I assume that there will be thermal compound between the two, to dissipate heat from the PCB into the backing plate. I would recommend ONLY removing the backing plate if you intend to attach the PCB directly to a good heatsink. Your heatsink should be QUITE flat, and you should use thermal compound, as well.Rather than buying this “light engine”, simply screwing in an LED bulb is an option, of course, but bulbs are not ideal for ceiling fixtures, as the omni-directional light output of a bulb is not what you need for this application. You want all your light to go down. The original foil reflector in the fixture that doubled as heat insulation for the blazing hot incandescent bulb(s) doesn’t do a very good job of reflecting the light that the bulb throws upwards. I’ve tried improving the light output of a conventional ceiling fixture that has LED bulbs screwed in by removing the plastic diffuser from the LED bulb itself (I DO NOT recommend that you try this). No diffuser means that all of the LED’s light escaped the “bulb”, but it’s now much more directional, which can work for or against you, depending on how the bulb sockets sit in the fixture, and where you want the light to go. You often end up with some nasty “hot spots” showing in the fixture’s glass cover, but perhaps they’re pointing toward something in the room that you want more light on, anyway.The first photo shows the inside of the fixture as it was used just before I installed the LED light engine. There was a 10 Watt Compact Fluorescent (CFL) bulb screwed into the single E26 socket. This was about the largest CFL bulb that could fit inside the glass fixture cover/diffuser. The purchase of the light engine was spurred by an incident with this fixture a couple weeks ago- I removed the glass cover to clean out the dead bugs, and also removed the CFL to clean it. I noted that the glass spiral portion of the CFL was loose relative to the bulb’s base (ballast), but decided to re-use the bulb. During careful reassembly, I nonetheless broke the tip off the glass tube of the CFL. Fortunately, the glass fixture cover was in place when the bulb broke, so it caught the minimal amount of broken glass from the bulb. “All right, that’s IT! No more darn CFLs!”. Shortly thereafter, I found this light engine, and decided that it’s a much better (but yes, also much more expensive) alternative to an LED E26 bulb.The last two photos are two-stops negative exposure comp shots of the fixture’s glass cover with first the 10W CFL, then the 17W LED light engine installed, just to show light output pattern. These are NOT manual/fixed exposure shots, so total light output can’t be compared. To the eye, though, the LED is MUCH brighter, and the instant full brightness is much appreciated on a light that’s often used in this “I want light, and I want it NOW” application (over a dark stairwell outside my aged parents’ 2nd floor bedroom).You may note that in some of the attached photos, the clear plastic cover has been removed. I chose to do this, but I DO NOT recommend that you follow my example. This cover serves an important safety function, keeping fingers and conductive tools away from the energized components when power is switched on to the fixture. Remember, someone else may get curious and see about changing the “bulb” inside the ceiling fixture some day. If the light engine has failed, and grid power is still present, the insulating cover will prevent a potentially fatal shock to the curious and incautious.A note to the makers of this light engine, if they read this- I have a feature request for a future revision:Built-in microwave radar motion sensing!This has very recently become a “thing”, and has some advantages over PIR (Passive InfraRed), especially when mounted behind the glass cover of a ceiling fixture. Radar motion sensing is a very inexpensive feature to add, but I’d likely pay a substantial premium to get it (hint, hint).

I read Q&A regarding this product and someone said it would fit Home Decorator's Daylesford 52 in. LED Indoor Oiled-Rubbed Bronze Ceiling Fan with Light Kit and Remote Control that I purchased from Home Depot. Well - it does NOT fit. First, the light does not come with a connector in the kit nor does it come attached to the light. The light has wires in the back that could be attached to a separately purchased plastic connector so if you're very adept with electrical items it's probably OK for you. That's my first problem when i pulled the new product from the box. So I would have to have an electrician come by to replace a bulb. Stupid. The second part to my disappointment with this light as a replacement for my ceiling fan is that the product description says it is 4" but in reality it is 4.5". Additionally, the original holes to attach to the ceiling fan are farther apart than the holes on this light kit. My photo's show the light bulb kit I was trying to replace (the round one) and this Silverlite is the square one.

Easy to install, bright ...perfect

Worked out fine for me replacing incandescent halogen bulbs, save quite a lot on hydro! Descent pricew as well!