Wireless Endoscope,Inspection Camera,WiFi Borescope,Snake Camera for IOS &Android,Waterproof IP68 camera,Hook Magnet Side View Mirror,Carrying Case Bag,Black 16.5Ft

This product isn't for everyone. It definitely isn't for a plumber or tradesperson. As others have noted it is only waterproof for the 25 feet after the camera head.For an experimenter or someone who likes to tinker, it has a lot of potential. You get a machined brass camera head with a USB native output (four conductors plus shield, plus a wire for LED power). The repeater (middle of the cable) and the usb connector on the PC end are the same circuit board, only the computer end has a little thumbwheel pot for controlling the LEDs, and just bleeds voltage straight off the USB connector.The cable is tough but sort of cheap. It's three 22awg, two 24awg, a foil shield, and a braided shield. The outside insulation is a thick thermoplastic which is probably tough but kind of nasty to work with.The repeater in the middle of the 50 foot run is completely and utterly non-waterproof (and it's cute how the repeater is sorta hidden in all the photos!). So this waterproof camera is actually waterproof for half of it's length. As an experiement I removed the repeater and spliced the cables back together. It works! The picture is okay - no noise or breakup - but there is increased latency and a decreased frame rate. 50 feet is way too far for the USB spec but what the heck, it works for me. With an underwater shrink splice (sold for wells) you could have a truly waterproof snake cam.Build quality is pretty bad. The solder job on the USB boards was dismal wit cold joints and hot melt glue pretending to keep things secure.Bottom line is, if you can solder and like to play with this kind of tech, it's a nice collection of parts. Don't buy it thinking it will stand in for a $3k See Snake, though. Some assembly required...

I used this camera to diagnose a broken drain line in the wall of my house. As other reviewers have stated, it works best for that purpose by attaching it to a drain snake. I used a couple cable ties to do that, and found that it worked best if I had the camera a few inches behind the head of the snake. That way the snake hit the curves (and eventual break) before the camera and the camera could record what was happening. That allowed me some perspective on what I was seeing.The camera interfaced with my Macbook without any trouble. Photo Booth recognized it and allowed me to record and review videos.Fortunately, my needs did not go beyond the connector that is around mid-cable (also mentioned in other reviews) so that was not a concern to me. It was affordable, it worked as well as expected for the price and it did just what I needed, hence the five stars.

To use this camera in the real world you will need to seal it against water, mud, etc.To protect the camera itself, I used a thin coat of 5-minute epoxy starting with ~1" of the cable and coating brass case all the way up to the face of the lens. I covered the face of the lens with a disk of masking tape to keep off the epoxy during the coating operation. I left a small lip around the edge of the face of the lens and built up a circular bead of epoxy around the edge of the lens to effectively recess the lens a bit and further protect it against impact and scrapes. Note this plastic lens cap is not solvent proof! Acetone will completely destroy it in a heartbeat. I have no data on how well the plastic lens resists the effects of drain cleaners.Also, as others have mentioned, the cable splice case at 25' needs to be sealed. This splice is housed in a plastic box that is the larger than the camera case and the same size as the USB plug and may not fit into small pipes, or worse, get stuck. Other reviewer comments have suggested removing this splice case and carefully soldering and sealing the wires to end up with a new splice about the same size as the cable. I would recommend also coating such a splice in epoxy.Finally, you will need to tape the cable securely to the USB plug casing to provide strain relief. (I would avoid using epoxy here for fear of it dripping internally and locking up the LED brightness adjustment.) As manufactured, the cable is quite loose in this plug casing and seems like it is only secured inside the USB plug by its electrical connections.In actual operation, the LED lights included around the camera are too small to illuminate anything more than an inch or so away in small pipes, so the infinite focus of the camera is useless inside a dark pipe. I added two 250 Lumen waterproof LED flashlights (Batteries Plus - SE Redline 5615, NEBO) so I could view the inside of the 8" storm drain I am repairing. I attached (Duck Tape and hose clamps) the camera, flashlights, and wire skid loops (to keep everything up out of the muck) to PVC pipe so I could shove it into the drain. I also attached this same combination of camera and flashlights to the back of one of the 1/2 circle blades of a post hole shovel (the original handles and other blade were removed) that I bolted to the PVC pipe. This allowed me to see what I was doing as I used the half circle blade to remove mud, rocks, etc. from the drain.With these modifications and the kludged tools, this inexpensive camera has worked flawlessly inspecting and guiding repairs along 40 feet of 8" concrete drain tiles, even at freezing temperatures. Note the storm drain I was working had only minimal bends, such that the straight 40' PVC pipe "handle" could flex enough to easily move through the drain.

returned