KUS USA SSS Fuel & Water Level Sensor

Extremely high quality construction. Works with a series of reed switches and fixed resistors. The float contains a magnet that opens/closes each reed switch as it moves. No variable resistor to fail and reed switches are often rated for billions of actuations. While this sensor gives a series of steps rather than being continuously variable, it's more than precise enough for a boat, which is likely to see large differences in fuel level at the sensor from to the boat pitching and yawing in response to chop, wakes, and acceleration.The length shown is the actual length of the sensor as measured from the bottom of the mounting plate. IT IS NOT THE RECOMMENDED TANK DEPTH FOR THE SENSOR, as specified by some other manufacturers of similar sensors. Order a sensor at least 1" shorter than the depth of your tank. So if you have an 8" tank, you would order a 7" deep sensor. If you don't have sufficient clearance, you risk the sensor hitting the bottom of the tank, possibly wearing through the tank, causing a leak, and costing you several thousand dollars to fix (if the tank is permanently mounted below the fiberglass deck).Note: There are conflicting directions from the manufacturer as to what length to order. According to the directions I received with mine, it said 1" minimum, regardless of tank material. Their tech support line confirmed that number. But their web site said "the length should be 1" less than the depth of the tank if tank is plastic, and 0.5" less than the depth of the tank if tank is metal." Tank sag at sensor varies greatly depending on tank mounting, size, shape, material, wall thickness, sensor placement, and the amount of fuel in the tank at the time of measurement. So play it safe and order one that is at least 1" shorter than the depth of your tank (measured from top of tank at mounting flange to bottom of tank).WARNING: RISK OF FIRE - Do not use electric tools when installing this into a tank that has, or had, gasoline in it. Doing so could lead to a fire if fuel vapors are ignited by sparks produced within the tool (switch, brushes, etc.). If you must drill holes, whether enlarging existing holes or making new ones, use a pneumatic (air-powered) drill or a manually cranked drill to reduce the risk of fire. Good air circulation, whether by breeze or fan, can help keep fuel vapor levels down.

I replaced the OEM's arm-type fuel sender in my Hydra-sports "Vector", due to its intermittent failure. I thought that utilizing the "reed switch" type would be a better component, so I went with this model - after measuring the tank depth.I found its color code to be "reversed" compared to my existing harness, but that was easily determined/corrected by using an Ohms meter to confirm which wire went to the battery ground. I then connected the unit to the harness before installing it into the tank, to verify its operation. Sliding the ring up and down the tube showed the expected response on my fuel gauge. (Just don't forget you need the battery and ignition switches "on" for the test).With all power "off" for safety, I then installed the sender per instructions. It is a complete kit, containing the gasket and the special screws for installation. The only PITA is getting that 5-point "star" screw hole pattern correct. It only aligns correctly one way and it's just difficult to see the difference without "some" trial and error, (especially if you coated the gasket with silicone). However, I eventually managed to get it right and cross-tightened the fasteners to facilitate completion.I knew the former sender's reading on the tank's contents, so with the new sender installed, it was good to see that it agreed with the former reading. This tank depth measured 17.5" from its bottom, to the top, (inside) - so I had to select this unit as the closest match, (the "guide" says to buy 1" shorter than actual internal tank space). But I decided that if this one read nearing empty "sooner", (due to that extra half inch of the fuel level) it would be better than being in error in the other direction, (showing fuel when there is none!).I recommend this unit, as it appears to be nice quality and includes everything you need in the package to make the replacement with ease. I would recommend adding silicone or your favorite sealant to the gasket, but if surfaces are clean and true, it may not be necessary.

I have now installed (5) senders and gauges in my boat ((1) water tank, (2) holding tank & (2) fuel tanks). All of the gauges and senders are made by KUS. The wiring instructions are straight forward and easy to follow, and all of the pieces worked properly. There appeared to be no flaws in manufacturing. I would, however, recommend always checking the impedance of senders before installing them. If you don't have an olm meter, simply put the whole system together with a small (12) volt battery and test the sender by sliding the float up and down while watching the gauge.

Very happy as is usual with Amazon and the Prime experience. Put this in place. Note of caution, be sure to mark the location of one of the screw location to match a mark up to the tank. The screw pattern is not uniform, nor should it be on the sender being replace or in my case upgraded. Was impressed right out with the stability of the dash fuel gauge needle. Takes some doing to get the gauge reading to "bounce around". Just what I have been looking for over so many years past. Love that there is no need to mess with in-tank sending unit to set proximate fuel content. This is a simple up and down true reading. Be sure to measure you tank's exact distance from bottom to top of sending tank hole. Give 1" more if a plastic tank (allowance for flexing) and 1/2" if metal. Found this to give the best results. FANTASTIC PRODUCT THUS FAR. I'll run it a full northeast season next then report back on performance.

Measure tank depth to ensure it will fit, give enough head room to allow the sending unit to not hit the bottom of the tank, Used on a 96 Four Winns Horizion 17.5' boat with inboard 80L fuel tank. Sending unit worked well and accurate (for a boat) better than the OEM arm+float style that this replaced. Modified existing 2 wire harness to connect to the wiring pigtail provided on the new sender without issue.

I ran critically low on fuel in my boat on more than one occasion due to the old swing arm rheostat style I had. I purchased this sensor and installed it very quickly and easily. Far more accurate. Craftsmanship seems good and it has been very reliable so far for my needs and I'm far more confident on my fuel level since installing this sensor type gauge. I would and likely will buy again when needed. Transaction and delivery was excellent I would definitely recommend.

I ordered the 11 1/2” (to fit my 98’ Mastercraft Sportstar 19) just two days ago and got it time for my summer vacation, thanks Amazon! . Please note, I had to use different screws (than the ones that came with the sending unit) to match the old screw pattern, other than that this kit is an awesome retro fit. Will monitor and report back when we return from holidays!

Using as a water level sensor in a shore well. Easy to mount securely on a galvanized steel strap with Tapcon (TM) concrete anchors to the side of the well, although nominally intended for mounting in a water/gas/diesel tank. Connected with 100 feet of 16/2 low voltage cable to a gauge from the same supplier and the two work together seamlessly. Recommended quality product.

I ordered a WEMA but received a KUS. Installed it and it works fine so far, so no issue with the fuel level sender itself. Not sure if they are the same manufacturer now or if Amazon mixed up the order again. (Actually the first shipment was a jar of magnesium supplement pills which I sent back !?!). Anyway, I paid a little extra for the WEMA so not happy about receiving the lower cost part (KUS), however it wasn’t worth the hassle to return it a second time. Next time I’d just order the KUS and save a few bucks, but time will tell how long it will last :).