Polymaker Fiberon PET-CF17 3D Printing Filament Black 1.75mm 0.5kg, Excellent Stable Stiffness - Fiberon Carbon Fiber Reinforced PET 3D Printer Filament, Ideal for Jigs and Fixtures

To the Polymaker Team:I'm struggling to get started printing and CNC machining, due to a lack of startup funds still. Can we work something out to get some more filament, until I make more money to buy it from y'all? No is an answer that I'll take. But I wanted to try.First thing is first! This stuff can print super intricate stuff. Also, it doesn't try to permanently stick to texture PEI plates like other nylons. Also, I printed at 10³mm/s with no issues. It was .24mm layer height with a .4mm nozzle, .4mm width at around 100-110mm/s speeds. IMPRESSIVE!I will only buy Fiberon nylon from here on out. I doubt another company can top this stuff.I have BBL PA6-CF, but it's a bit more expensive and the shipping sucks.I made a fork latch for my gate, since I hated the OG swivel latch thing. The BBL PA6, became too flexible after 3 days. (As plastic absorbs water, it becomes more flexible, but more impact resistant, but I need stuffness) It did rain a ton tho. But I kept having to tighten the bolts on the bracket as it softened.This Polymaker Fiberon PA612_CF15!?! Well, it absorbs less moisture and it still super rigid.

I recently started using PA612-CF15 filament in my 3D printer, and it's been an excellent material for high-performance, industrial-grade prints. Here's my detailed review:Print Quality & Ease of Use: The PA612-CF15 filament is a 3D printing material that combines polyamide (nylon) with carbon fiber. It’s a bit more challenging to print with compared to standard filaments like PLA, but it produces outstanding results. The carbon fiber reinforcement provides extra rigidity and strength, and the printed parts come out with a nice matte finish. I’ve found that it’s crucial to adjust the print settings for optimal results—slower print speeds, higher temperatures, and a hardened steel nozzle are key to getting the best quality.Strength & Durability: This filament’s main selling point is its strength. It offers excellent mechanical properties, including high tensile strength and low moisture absorption, which means printed parts stay tough and won’t warp or weaken easily. I’ve used it to print functional parts that need to withstand a bit of wear and tear—things like brackets and connectors—and they’ve held up impressively well. The carbon fiber content also adds to the durability, making it ideal for parts that will be exposed to high stress.Printing Performance: While the PA612-CF15 filament prints relatively well, it’s a bit finicky when it comes to adhesion. I highly recommend using a heated bed, as well as a build surface that’s designed for high-performance filaments (like PEI). Once you’ve dialed in the settings, however, it adheres well and delivers smooth, strong prints.Post-Processing: Another benefit of this filament is its ease of post-processing. You can sand, drill, or machine it with minimal effort, which makes it ideal for parts that need to be further customized. However, because of the carbon fiber content, it can cause additional wear on your print head, so you’ll want to use a hardened nozzle to avoid clogging or damage.Finish & Aesthetics: The carbon fiber content gives the prints a unique, matte black finish that looks both sleek and industrial. This is great if you’re looking for a functional yet stylish end product. The finish is slightly rough to the touch, which adds to the overall durability and strength, but it’s also one of those materials that looks even better the more you use it.Overall: PA612-CF15 filament is a fantastic choice for anyone needing durable, strong, and heat-resistant 3D prints. It’s best suited for functional prototypes, automotive parts, or anything that requires robust mechanical properties. While it takes a little effort to get the settings just right, the results are definitely worth it for demanding applications.Rating: 4.7/5Pros: High strength, excellent durability, easy post-processing, great finishCons: Requires careful calibration, can cause wear on nozzles, difficult to print with for beginners

I do not write reviews often but in the case of this filament, absolutely. I have always used Hatchbox for my PETG needs, but no longer. The filament was shipped in the normal brown Poly box but vacuum sealed in a non-reusable bag. That is ok with me because I knew when I opened the package, the hiss let me know it was sealed correctly. As always, dry out your filament, especially PETG. I let this run at 54c for 8 hours before using. This is not my first translucent filament but it has been the EASIEST to print with. Stringing is basically non-existent, adhesion is not a factor and the quality of the prints are immaculate. I have tried countless filaments over the years from all manufacturers. Poly is my go to PLA using PLA Pro or Polylite because I have never had one issue with their filaments, so why not try their PETG. Yes this comes in a cardboard roll which I am fine with.Right now I am printing this with heavy infill because I need the strength but the transparency is VERY good even with 40% infill. Printing with a larger nozzle, less infill, thicker walls, and post-processing will give you a clearer finish. Print this slower than PLA. You can also go down to .1 and REALLY slow printing for a very clear finish, but will lose strength and time printing.PETG can be a little tricky if you do not have the correct temps / retractions. Surprisingly, I print this at a lower temp than other PETG filaments. I am running a Titan Direct Drive so my retraction settings will differ from a Bowden setup. I have printed this with Marlin without issue and currently running Klipper with BETTER results.Setup: Creality CR10-v3 STOCKBed: G10When printing on Glass I raise 5cCura Settings for a stronger PETG print (Currently using settings for fan ducts for Hero Me G7).4 brass nozzle.2 layer height.4 line width1.2 wall thickness2 Top Surface Skin LayersMonotonic Top/Bottom UncheckedSkin in Z Gaps UncheckedIroning Unchecked40% infillConnect Infill Lines UncheckedTemp 235Build Plate 80Initial Layer Bottom Flow 108%Print Speed 40mm/sMy Titan Extruder Retraction settingsEnable RetractionRetract at Layer change CheckedRetraction Distance .8Retraction Speed 45mm/sRetract before outer wall CheckedLimit Support Retractions UncheckedEnable Print cooling UNCHECKED <----------With Klipper, turn off all Acceleration Control, Jerk Control, Z Hop when retracted. Take your time with the Klipper setup and go through each step in order, not skipping. If you walked through all Klipper settings, everything will print GREAT. If not, blame the user and not the tools. I skipped a couple the first time through and was so confused as to why everyone loved Klipper because my results were terrible. Impatience got me. I went through the setup again (took my time, couple days), and I am sold. I will not go back to Marlin.For a good print, everyone should make sure a couple of things are in order regardless of slicer, firmware or printer...1. Your bed is level2. No seriously, take the time and level your damn bed3. Do not write bad reviews because filaments do not stick to your unlevel bed4. ESTEPS. Tune them, per roll, not per filament. It can change from roll to roll. Also, tune your ESTEPS at the temperature you are going to print at (start a spreadsheet and keep track of settings to cut down on the time it takes when changing rolls).5. Correct temperatures. This can also change PER ROLL and depending on how dry it is. If you hear a slight pop sound, too much moisture.6. Bed adhesion. I have used Carborundum glass beds, thick mirrors, HomeDepot 12in mirrors and now G10. There is ONE common factor to all of them, do not touch the bed. EVER. Wash the bed with dish soap and water, then dry with a clean, lint free cloth. Glass beds would require me to clean them every few prints. G10, pfft. I just wipe it down with the blue shop roll paper towels and done. Now if I TOUCH the bed, I clean it with dish soap and water. You can also use 99.99% alcohol to wipe the beds down as well. Spend $20 and get a G10 sheet. You will not be sorry.Happy Printing!