CORSAHD 8K@60Hz 4K@120Hz HDMI 2.1 Splitter 1 in 2 Out,48 Gbps,HDCP 2.3,Supports VRR,ALLM,HDCP Bypass,EDID,Duplicate/Mirror/Copy,Downscale,HDR,Dolby Vision Atmos,Soundbar,Capture Card,Graphics Card

I bought this device because I have a Samsung Q8FN QLED tv (2018) that supports Freesync/VRR and ALLM but only has HDMI 2.0 ports with no EARC. The main issue that I wanted to solve is that if I connect an Xbox Series X directly to the TV, I lose Dolby Atmos support via my soundbar (Nakamichi 9.2.4 - 2018, HDMI 2.0). I can only output Dolby 5.1 via arc from the TV. So in my configuration, my choice was either Freesync/VRR or Dolby Atmos. This device allowed me to split the signal from the Xbox Series X into HDMI out-1 to the TV and HDMI out-2 to one of the inputs on the soundbar. I set the EDID setting on the splitter to copy the TV's EDID and support 7.1 channel audio, this allowed me to access VRR, ALLM, and Dolby Atmos in the Xbox settings. Finally! Sadly, DTS:X is not supported in this configuration. I tried all the other EDID options and DTS:X did not work. Freesync/VRR works on my TV at 4k 60 Hz or 1440P 120Hz resolutions on this TV, while able to have lag-free Dolby Atmos sound. Like Todd Howard says, "It just works!". I recommend this splitter for users with an older TV that has some of the newer HDMI 2.1 capabilities, but that don't want to spend the money upgrading to a brand new TV HDMI 2.1 TV. This splitter is a great value.

Product is listed as supporting EDID Copy and DOLBY Vision.With HDMI Connected from GPU to TV directly, TV is identified as a Philips FTV (Dolby Vision) in Windows.With HDMI Connected from GPU to Splitter to TV using HDMI 2.1 cables (2m) the TV is identified in Windows as A Philips FTV but there is no longer a Dolby Vision tag.The Nvidia Control Panel lists all Resolution,Refresh Rates and Display Colour settings correctly, yet it will default to 1080P/YCBR422/12BPC whereas before it would be 4K/4:2:2/12BPCIf attempting to change this to a listed supported option like 4kx2k 3840x2160, 10 bpc, RGB. It will swap to this, them promptly swap back, the TV will not display it.You can however output as 4Kx2K 3840x2160, 60HZ, 12 bpc 4:2:2 with Limited dynamic range.Enabling HDR in Windows, display on TV will change to 12 bpc, 4:2:2, HDR10, BT.2020In other words:You can not use this splitter to get RGB output at 4K 60HZ, 12BPC/10BPC, Full Dynamic Range.This means that certain finicky titles, such as Mass Effect Andromeda will not support playing with DOLBY VISION enabled as it requires (most of the time) the desktop to be set as RGB.edge://gpu will also list that HEVC - Dolby Vision support is FALSE on this screen.Whereas when connected directly it will be listed with Dolby Vision suppor TRUE.So - it seems to work for the most part, except for DOLBY VISION not being there.

This works decently enough when you want 2 screens going of the same video feed or images. It does appear to be a little more elementary in its design and looks than more sophisticated models, but this is ok.

I was using this to add a 2nd 1080p monitor to my Xbox X. The first unit I ordered was dead on arrival. The replacement worked (mostly) for awhile but then died within 60 days. The 'mostly' working was that the big screen (HDR) would go black and refresh when the Xbox app (Call Of Duty) changed screens. Did not occur with other video such as Pluto TV.

Works to run my PS5 to my Elgato HD60X without having to change PS5 settings. If you have issues, try and make sure you are working with the Elgato plugged into the computer with OBS or your other software open; you may need to restart the capture card and the splitter both a number of times before all the settings are aligned. Also be sure you are using a USB C with the proper 5V, because any of the fancier power bricks may not negotiate power correctly and the splitter just acts dead, but with the right power supply, it works fine. Afterward, passthrough is working properly!This same brand's Audio Extractor 2 in 1 out Switch (same price, 69.99) also has the same function after fiddling with the switches in the device! So, decide whether you need a splitter (1 in 2 out) or a switcher (2 in 1 out) and use whichever will suit your use case best!