HJHX Ws2812b Led Strip, 16.4ft 300LEDs Ws2812 Individually Addressable Lights for DIY Lighting Projects, IP30 Wide Compatibility RGB Flexible Rope Lights for Indoor Home Decorations

The media could not be loaded. The first strip I ordered was fine up until the point that I assumed the the label on the LED controller that said 5V-24V meant that I could give it a voltage within that range. I gave it about 12V from a LiPo battery and fried my strip.But I bought a second strip, and got a DC12V-24V step down converter to 5V at 15A max and the strip worked perfectly. I used this LED strip and LED controller for my Halloween project, which was a Deadmau5 head replica (with lots of wire mods to the original strip). I still plan to add custom animations to my LED strip using a T-1000S LED controller, but I just wanted to share that it was my mistake for frying the first LED strip and that my 2nd strip worked flawlessly.The LED’s are extremely bright and none of my pixels were dead on arrival. One thing to point out is that the spacing of each LED will not always be perfect since multiple strips are attached together to make the full 5M strip.

The entire strip works beautifully and the built in effects on the remote control are very good. All LEDs are functioning perfectly and exhibit the same brightness and color tone. I'll write custom program and connect smaller segments of this strip to ESP8266 wireless micro controllers around the living room for x mass. So far so good. But it's worth mentioning that you absolutely HAVE to have a good 5 Volt power supply and hook it up to the LED strip after every 300 LEDs or so if you intend to run it with all LEDs ON, at maximum brightness (and white collor...). The documentation from the manufacturer is very clear on this and other usage modes.

Seem to have a fatal flaw in their manufacturing, if you intend to cut the strips: the copper foil that you will solder your wire connections to appears to want to break away. It cost me a proto.The brightness, uniformity, color consistency, are all good. They use an appropriate 3M adhesive so no worries there. I had good success with their voltage flexibility so far as well. I've run 12 of them straight off 3V from two AAs and they handled it fine (for quick testing. This would have really bad battery life). I've also run them at a regulated 5V and used 3.3V logic without a level shifter on the same 12 LED strip and that's worked great as well. FWIW, I used the NeoPixel library in Arduino's IDE for quick animation and such. I also went with something like 300 Ohms on the signal line and if you're going to run a large strip, consider a bigger capacitor than the one they recommend for inrush.So the downside: my wires break loose from the strip way too often. The whole "pad" just breaks off when trying to get final mounting done. And that's just a heartbreaking time to have to go back into surgery. I'm not sure if I may be getting the strip too hot during soldering, but the pad seems to be very small. It doesn't extend under the black insulation layer more than a mm or so from what I can see. Perhaps this is for cost savings.I think you can have success with these and the performance for cost is very good. But if my experience holds, you will have to contend with resoldering or replacing strips more than once.You could consider buying a bit extra, prepping extra strips, and designing in plug n play connection ends in case a couple of your wires snap off.

Great strip of individually addressable LEDs that work well with my Arduino projects. The presence of a bonus connector is a nice bonus. The tape on the back is okay, but I haven't found a strip without the issue of the tape failing over time.Pro-Tip: Cut from the opposite end of the connector so that if you want the convenience of using it, you don't have to resolder it on once you've already cut it off.

The media could not be loaded. I immediately attached 5V to the mini controller and verified that the strip worked. Then I cut the strip into 8 separated strips of 37 leds. (4 leds left over). Then I placed them next to each other and soldered wiring to them to connect them in a matrix 8x37 wired in a zig zag pattern. Soldering tip: hold the soldering iron on the copped tabs and deposit a bead of solder on the copper. Then hold the wire in place and remelt the solder to connect them. For longer runs, secure the wires so they don't pull off. Powered up with 5V 2Amps, driven with one pin from an Arduino Uno. At 20% brightness they were plenty bright.

Product was perfect for what I needed, make sure to look for direction of arrow when wiring. When wired correctly they work beautifully but stupid me didn’t realize for a while if you solder them, make sure to solder following the direction of arrow and they work perfectly! If they start getting extremely hot and no light is coming off, ground is probably wired to 5V and vice verse. Also if this happens , they still should work as there is reverse polarity protection. If no light is appearing and your data signal is good, and there’s correct voltage , you probably applied wires to incorrect side of arrow !

Lights look good, well made, adhesive tape is good.I used the included controller to test some things before wiring to a separate controller, and after a few minutes you could smell some burning plastic and none of the buttons worked on it anymore. The lights are still fine. I was only sending 5v

The media could not be loaded. I was pretty rough with these when assembling my project including stepping on them accidentally. They all still work and look great.