Verbatim CD-R Blank Discs 700MB 80 Minutes 52X Recordable Disc for Data and Music - 100pk Spindle Frustration Free Packaging,Blue

been using these to make CDs for my car and they work perfect and have only developed skips after the normal amount of time they would (maybe one after a year of very regular use in my experience) as long as the files you use are good quality the one the CD has burned onto it will be exactly the same

Not really sure what to say about these, they're just CDs. They do what they're supposed to.

Great quality at a good price

Good, reliable cdrs. Have been using this brand for years with no problems

---Pro's...-Price (about $18 for a Verbatim 100-pack of CD-R's which means about $0.18 per disc)-Verbatim brand (everyone knows that generally speaking Verbatim and TY (Taiyo Yuden) make the best optical media. but on Verbatim media you generally want the 'Azo' discs, which these CD-R's in this review are not)-Better than average overburn capacity for standard audio CD's (while standard CD-R's only are officially rated for up to 80 minutes I can confirm these discs (which I bought in April 2022) will overburn (with ImgBurn v2.5.8.0) to at least 82min15sec(82:14:66) successfully (assuming your CD burner can overburn CD-R's which most probably can) and it shows up as 82min12sec on my original CD player, which has a April 1991 mfg date on it, and plays without issue.NOTE: to overburn a standard audio CD with ImgBurn you basically go to 'Tools > Create CUE File...' and then drag-and-drop your WAV files (standard 16bit/44.1kHz) into there (you can tweak the 'CD-TEXT' stuff if you want to but I won't get into this for now as it's not that important in general) and simply keep a eye on the total run time and then save the '.cue' file and then go to 'Mode > Write' and then simply drag-and-drop the '.cue' file you created (the cue and wav files should be in the same directory on your computer!), check total 'Time', set your write speed to 16x, and then proceed to burn is the gist of it. but when you try to burn a standard audio CD beyond the usual 80 minute limit it will ask if you want to 'overburn' or 'truncate', select 'overburn' when you get to this screen and it will attempt the overburn.TIP: I suggest getting all of your audio files setup through Foobar2000 (free software) first before transferring it to ImgBurn to burn since you can check total runtime etc through Foobar2000 first. this makes the ImgBurn burning process nice and smooth. this is optional but I recommend it since Foobar2000 is the best general audio playback program and basic audio conversion program available. NOTE: once you install Foobar2000 you will also probably need to install the 'Foobar2000 Encoder Pack' (and maybe additional software depending on what your doing but I won't get into this for now) to get proper conversion between MP3 back to WAV etc (see TIP below as it's best to avoid MP3 back to WAV!) so ImgBurn can use it.TIP: for best audio quality (and this has nothing to do with the CD-R's themselves) it's best to ALWAYS rip from original audio CD's to WAV or FLAC format (FLAC is a lossless audio format but only takes up roughly half of the storage space of WAV files with no reduction in sound quality) and NOT go from MP3 back to standard AUDIO CD WAV format because the standard audio CD you are creating will only output sound as good as the MP3 and MP3's are not a lossless audio format. but with that said... you can still go from MP3 back to WAV files and burn a standard audio CD but it's best to use WAV/FLAC when burning a standard audio CD for maximum sound quality since those, assuming were ripped from original CD, will be max sound quality unlike MP3's. but with that said, if the MP3 is of high enough sound quality to begin with, it's pretty safe for me to say most people won't be able to tell the difference between a original audio CD and a audio CD made from MP3's (or the like).---Con's...-CMC Magnetics media code (these are phthalocyanine dye, not the 'Azo' discs (with the Mitsubishi dye) which are of higher quality (and only cost roughly $3-5 more per 100-pack) but given the low price of these and Verbatim's reputation they are still likely 'good enough', especially for standard audio CD's and I expect they will last at least years, maybe decades. I just would not put too much trust in these in terms of long term data storage like I do with the Azo types of media which I just use DVD since they hold about 6.7 times the data that CD-R's do and their cost is not much more and you can check the quality of DVD-R/+R media on a Liteon DVD burner with a program called KProbe etc with PIE/PIF's but I won't get into that for now which when it comes to CD-R media only a limited amount of drives can properly check the C1/C2 errors, which none of the drive I have can do a proper disc quality check on CD-R's (with the exception of the Liteon 24102b), but I can on DVD-R/+R discs. but this generally won't be a problem since I don't really store any critical data on these CMC Magnetics Verbatim CD-R's. but with the Azo Verbatim discs (CD or DVD) they will likely last AT LEAST decades since I got Verbatim DVD-R and +R media about 10-15 years old and still work great and even the KProbe scan is still similar to when I first burned those discs and I figure if there is no obvious degradation of these discs by now, they will almost certainly last for the foreseeable future, which means decades more.---Additional Info and tips...-For standard AUDIO CD's, which is primary what I got these for, I suggest using ImgBurn v2.5.8.0 and burn at 16x write speed. NOTE: ImgBurn's interface is not super easy to use in terms of creating standard audio CD's but it's not difficult as you just use the 'Tools > Create CUE File...' section to do it.-I recommend using a desktop burner NOT a laptop burner since desktop burners will generally be more reliable and of better quality. so in other words... if you have trouble burning discs with errors on a laptop, try a desktop before claiming the CD-R's are bad because most likely it's a burner fault and not a disc fault, especially from a quality brand like Verbatim (although it's possible one could get a faulty batch once in a while (or that certain audio CD players just happen not to like these disc etc) but generally speaking if you have problems, playing the odds, it's your burner. TIP: make sure your running the newest firmware for your CD/DVD burner (this is software inside of the CD/DVD burner itself the drive uses to figure out the proper write strategy etc) as this can potentially solve burn quality issues!-While I have a total of three DVD burners (Sony Optiarc 7240s(from 2009)/Liteon iHAS324B(from 2011)/Liteon 1673s(from 2005)) and two CD burners(Liteon 24120b (mfg date is Dec 2001)/HP which has a May 2000 mfg date (I don't really use the HP burner since it's the worst of the five burners I got) and all are running the newest firmware), I have been using my Sony Optiarc 7240s (which I have had since 2009) with ImgBurn on the seven or so Verbatim CD-R discs I have burned so far from this 100-pack and all work fine on my original CD player (Panasonic RX-DS620) which has a April 1991 mfg date on it and a Panasonic SC-EN5 which has a May 2003 mfg date on it.NOTE: I am using ImgBurn v2.5.8.0 on Linux Mint v20.3-Xfce through Wine v6.0.1 (which I setup through PlayOnLinux (sudo apt install playonlinux)) (NOTE: Wine must be set to Windows XP mode (Wine defaults to Windows 7 mode) otherwise it will freeze at the splash screen!). but just about everyone reading this will be using ImgBurn on Windows so all of this Linux/Wine stuff does not apply to you (and you can ignore this)!TIP: if ImgBurn cannot see your CD/DVD burners, go to "Tools > Settings > I/O" and change the default of 'ASPI' to 'SPTI - Microsoft' and for 'SPTI - Device Enumeration Method' change that to either 'Device Interface' or 'Drive Letter' and press OK and it will now most likely see your burners.bottom line... 4 out of 5 stars. I only removed 1 star because these are CMC Magnetics instead of the superior Mitsubishi dye you see on the 'Azo' media which, given what we now know with the passage of time, the Azo discs will likely 'easily' last decades without failure when stored half way decently. CMC Magnetics might be 'okay' to and last years, possibly decades, but they are more of a gamble vs Azo media as a general rule.

great buy for the money

In 2025, it takes very little brain power to figure out that most manufacturers are phasing out the creation of physical media, and the manufacturers that are left are very hit or miss when it comes to quality. Luckily, Verbatim has not only made it clear that they will continue the production of physical media for the foreseeable future, but their products also don't suck!I have tested these CD-Rs with Data CDs, Audio CDs, and burning Dreamcast homebrew (Not legit games, just stuff like Dream Explorer. Don't condone piracy!) and all of which worked. Any issues I had with any of it usually boiled down to corrupted files on my end. These CD-Rs are great for just about any use case, provided it can fit into the 700MBs of storage it contains.

would buy from again