Southern Ag Garden Friendly Bio Fungicide Organic, 8 OZ

Small but mighty.has nearly solved the algae issue I was having in my hydroponic tanks and greatly helped with root rot. Keeping my roots awfully clean. 2 ml per five gallon tank. Looks nasty and the concentrate doesn’t smell fantastic, but, once in tanks the smell doesn’t linger. Becoming new best customer. This peats the crap out of the expensive ones and is cheaper and far far more potent! Thank you to whoever came up with this product! It’s great!

In mid to late summer our tomato plants get infected with Septoria leaf spot, which will kill most varieties of big toms just when they're starting to produce blossoms & fruit. The bacteria in this product help tomato plants fight that fungus. I make up the recommended solution in a bucket and let the plants' roots soak in it for a few minutes before transplanting. I've also used it in a sprayer to coat the leaves & stems. It doesn't wipe out fungus, but it seems to slow the spread. It's important to get the anti-fungus bacteria solution into the soil around your plants. Septoria spores must be airborne and endemic here. I haven't had any better luck growing tomatoes in containers or straw bales than I had growing them in soil. If you have this disease, don't give up on tomatoes. Choose varieties with some resistance to or tolerance of Septoria leaf spot,* and try this anti-fungal bacteria to keep it somewhat at bay. Watch your plants vigilantly and remove any leaf with a spot, and pick up any dead leaves around the base of plants (burn or put in bagged garbage anything diseased). Mulching around plants slows the spread from soil splashing up, but like I said-- it's airborne and unescapable.*Heirloom brandywine type; Matt's wild cherry tomato; Iron Lady.

To use instead of hydroguard take 20 mil of water and mix in 1 mil of SAG Fungacide. Then take the mixture and add 1 mil per gallon for hydro,coco, peat, rockwool. Also works in soil of course.

I have a pyracantha hedge with a severe case of fire blight. I had the bushes trimmed way back, and prepared to spray with a product that kills the bacteria. EVERY PRODUCT THAT TOTALLY KILLS THE FIRE BLIGHT MEANT I WOULD HAVE TO WEAR FULL PPE AND COULD KILL DOMESTIC PETS AND NEIGHBORHOOD WILDLIFE!!!.I have to spray this every 7-10 days, but it is much safer. One of the reasons I’m so eager to save the pyracantha is the large flock of birds that makes the hedge a home. I also am not willing to harm the neighborhood feral cat colony, or my stubborn cat that occasionally runs out and makes me play “chase the kitty”.I’ve sprayed the bushes 3x and the bushes are growing back well. Blooms should develop soon, which is how the bacteria gets in, so I’ll be diligent with thee spraying.

I tried this this year mixed in a pump sprayer with copper and mir-acid and my tomato plants are virtually blight free with a full crop of fruit. Much better than the mix of copper and fertilizer alone that I had been using.

I use it in every DWC or Kratky grow due to pythium/root rot issues with higher reservoir temps of 76F in the reservoir. It helps, it's not 100% effective, but it does help. I think the salts reduce it's effects the higher they go, ppm over 1200. Since it's hydro and the bacteria needs organic waste to reproduce it must be applied regularly. Their isn't any info from the company on it's use in hydro and maybe that's why they don't have any directions for hydro usage and it's effectiveness. No actual shelf life time frames, I don't even think put any storage info on the label. I can see this being very effective for soil grows, but in hydro it's limited. Know the proper procedure for disposing and it's usage prior to buying.

I'm not sure what to rate this yet. I was looking for something longer lasting than milk/baking soda spray. I applied it on leaves that already had signs of blight, powdery mildew or downy mildew. It killed the leaves completely within a couple days. I do see some new healthy growth on the cukes, which had the downy mildew, but no difference on tomatoes, zucchini, etc. I'll be trying it next year as a preventative & will update with how that works, but as others have said, if you already have leaf damage, this isn't going to do much for you.

I'm about 1 month into my very first hydro 420 grow. My plants looked fine, if a little small, but the roots weren't as robust or white as they're supposed to be, possibly a little slimy. Was considering HydroGuard, but just didn't want to pay a ridiculous price for 99% water. Got this stuff instead and gave my first dose of it about 8 days ago. Within 3-4 days, it was obvious that my roots really were looking better. Today, they're MUCH bigger, with very long "hairs" coming off them in all directions. In the 4-5 years I've been growing, I've tried probably 20 different "miracle" products that people swore made a huge difference. Not one of them did as much throughout a full grow as this stuff did in a single week. For the price, I don't think you can really go wrong.