Siraya Tech Blu 3D Printer Tough Resin with High Toughness Resolution Strong and Precise 3D Printing 405nm UV-Curing Rapid Resin for LCD DLP 8K 3D Printer (Clear V2, 1kg)

This stuff is tough as coffin nails. I printed a mini and dropped it from 9 feet on kitchen tile and it just harmlessly bounced. Seems a bit excessive for minis unless you plan on throwing them around lol. Fantastic for practical prints.

Very tough, virtually no odor, very accurate. Needs to be at 25°C to print well, as it's fairly thick. Slightly translucent very dark blue/purple. Can be dyed opaque black with RIT Proline dye. (Don't waste your time trying to use the new consumer dye - it's garbage. The old stuff works if you have any though.)Best print settings with an Anycubic Photon Mono X seem to be 3 burn-in layers @ 14 sec. / 2.6 sec exposure time 50um layers.You need to be certain that the bottom of your build plate is flat and parallel to the LCD. I had to surface mine on a milling machine with a 6" flycutter to get it flat. Had to take off almost 0.010". If it's not dead flat you will probably have print failures.If you don't have a milling machine (why not?) then you should be able to get it flat with various grades of wet/dry sandpaper and a [minimum] 1/4" thick glass plate. Start with 80g and go up to about 320 max. in 4 steps. Start with 320 to see how far off it is first. If it's as far off as mine was, you will be there quite a while. Or mill it.Best way to get perfect prints (on any machine that uses the same clamping setup as the Mono X) - loosen the build plate screws , home the machine (do NOT put a piece of paper on the LCD - put your vat on the machine - empty, of course). Once the machine is homed, lightly press it against the LCD and tighten all the screws. Raise the build plate, loosen the clamp knob, and insert a piece of 0.003-0.005" thick paper between the build plate upper support and the carriage effectively raising the build plate by ~0.005". This also seems to damp some of the vibrations inherent in the machine resulting in better print detail. This only works on machines that clamp the plate to the carriage the way the Mono X (or regular Photon Mono) does it. BE CAREFUL - if you don't know what I'm talking about, don't try this - you may end up breaking your LCD.If you have difficulty getting prints off the base, try sticking it in a deepfreeze for a few hours. The print should just slide off. Put something under it in the deepfreeze to catch drips. Please note that any food in the freezer that isn't totally sealed will end up smelling/tasting like resin. Don't assume that something is sealed just because it's in a box. Ask me how I know...

Casi termino la botella, ¿mi conclusión? Gran resina, sin impresiones fallidas, sin deformaciones, impresiones fuertes y estéticamente agradables. Como la resina es bastante espesa, la imprimo a 35°C con el calentador de mi cámara de resina. Tenga en cuenta que a esa temperatura debe reducir el tiempo de exposición.

Siraya Tech Blu ist kein Anfängerharz, ist aber aus meiner Sicht schon deswegen seinen Preis wert, weil es nicht nur ziemlich robust, sondern (neben Phrozen Protowhite Rigid) auch "biokompatibel" nach ISO 10993-5 und ISO 10993-10 ist. Es lässt sich gut ab 20°C aufwärts mit den Einstellungen von der Herstellerwebseite drucken.Um weniger Probleme beim Drucken mit dem transparenten "Clear v2" (oder "Emerald Blue") zu haben, würde ich empfehlen "Light bleed compensation" in UVtools zu nutzen.Der LED-Diffusor auf dem Foto wurde für 15 Minuten in Elegoo Mercury Plus 2.0 ausgehärtet. Der für die meisten Harze typische Gelbstich ist zwar vorhanden, aber im Gegenteil zu den günstigeren "Alternativen" nicht wirklich schlimm.

I've used Siraya Tech resins for a few years and they're great. The quality of the print is great! but I feel that the mechanical properties of the resin aren't quite nylon like. Maybe I'm just expecting too much?Usually at work I'll print a part/pattern and we mould and cast out multiple parts in (usually Polyurethane) resin with the properties that I want the part to have. But I'm at home in between projects at the moment and don't have the resources that I'm used to having. So I'm using the parts, I'm printing. I'm making Prop guards for my <250g cinewhoop. I wanted to redesign them to make them easier to replace, and maybe improve the noise and efficiency slightly.... anyway, after printing and curing the prints in a Form Labs Cure (for the recommended time/settings) I tested out a few of my new designs.. and eventually/ inevitably crashed. The prints snapped on relatively low impact crashes on grass.. so, I've since ordered some tenacious to add to the Blu Nylon like, and maybe the Fast resin, to improve the impact durability of the prints and make them less brittle.