1.75mm Filament Connector | Easy Operate Filament Welder Splicer for 3D Printer | Filament Fuser Joiner for PLA/ABS/PC/PETG/TPU Filaments

Red VS BlackRed doesn't use parchment paper. This may prove to be a bad thing after extended use, due to build up of filament on the clamp. Having said that, using parchment paper with Black is a little tricky. I now know why so many reviews comment on needing the 3rd hand. It takes a bit, but after a few attempts, I was getting it with minimal trouble. Black comes with standard paper clamps which are essentially useless, they tend to slip and release the filament, messing up the weld positioning. I'm surprised the manufacturer didnt 3d print some small U clips. Took me 30 minutes to draw something and have it printed. These work MUCH better than paper clips.Red has a stand. VERY convenient, especially considering the filament is spooled up and keeps pushing the black over. Not having the clamp level is a bad thing. The filament coming out of the sides gets hot enough to easily deform. I'll design something similar for Black that holds it in position.Black worked quite well with the settings listed (at least for PETG), whereas Red overheated the filament coming from the sides. After the cool down period, the filament had folded almost 90°. This should be an easy enough fix, just have to tweak the timing.Black came out "cleaner" whereas red needed more clean up. This is probably due to the parchment paper. Red comes with 3 files, Black only has 1.Red came with a timer, which was much more convenient than using my phone.Black seems to be built slightly better, but that might just be due to the size difference.Red is cheaper.In my opinion, there isn't a clear winner. They both work as advertised and with a little bit of practice, I think will have similar results. If nothing else, there shouldn't be buyer's remorse wishing you went the other way. HAPPY PRINTING!!Revision: After more experimenting, I'm growing fonder of Red. The omission of parchment paper just makes its SOO much easier. Tip - I coated the business end of Red with a Plastic Repellent product available from Slice Engineering. Hopefully using this stuff will add longevity to Red, as I had my initial concerns as to the parchment paper providing a line of defense. I tried to coat Black with the same product, but I still had some filaments adhere to the clamp, which scared me into resorting back to parchment paper. Only time will tell how many splices I can get from either type, but for now, my go to will be RED. Just easier to use, and it doesnt hurt that its cheaper.

I use it for my 04 wire to connect them together two try’s and then now I got it down pat just make sure your wire is straight and butted together before putting it in. Lots of sleeves and slicers works great.I would recommend getting one to save from wasting wire. 3Der recommended

I have multiple part-spools of filament that are too short for practical use. I wanted to be able to use the filament without having to baby-sit the printer to try to catch the filament running out so I could do a quick change. I tried some of the do-it-yourself filament welders and never was able to get a good weld. My very first attempt with this was pretty good. I did use the included sander to smooth the splice so it would be more consistent in size with the rest of the filament. Some subsequent attempts joined the filament, but the joint was not as good. So, there is a bit of a leaning curve to using this product effectively.Plus: Compact size, fairly easy to use.Negative: there was no instructions in the box of suggested times for different filaments. The graphic on Amazon has this information, but it is not included in the box.Neutral: Apparently, there was a timer included at one point as one of the video reviews indicates. Mine did not come with a timer. Since it is not listed in the product details, and since I have enough ways to time the filament already, this is not a big deal.

I've successfully fused filament with this device about 50% of the time. Unfortunately, if you don't get a really clean joint, it will jam somewhere in the filament path. The trick to getting it to come out clean is to make sure you give it at least 5 minutes after you turn the clamp off before you remove the filament from it, and then use a blade to shave off the flash on the sides followed by some light sanding to get a really smooth joint.I've personally found it easier to switch filament "on the run" by feeding in the new filament while the printer is running. It's probably not the BEST way to handle the need to change filaments, but with an open frame printer it's fairly easy to do as long as your print speed isn't crazy high.

I had really high hopes for this thing. At trying the $10, non-electric version which was terrible, I thought perhaps I needed to pay a little more for something that worked. WRONG.Over the course of a day, I tried every combination of heating and cooling times I could think of, while I was doing other 3d printing. None of it worked.The build quality of the parts is entirely fine. The clamp feels substantial in your hand. It definitely gets up to temperature quickly too. The power cord is pretty standard, two-prong.But the actual device does not work. Either it doesn't fuse the two parts or it just mushes a circle of filament or the connection when you pull it out is very small, resulting in breaking.We makers love to buy little do-dads and accessories for 3d printing. Resist the temptation to buy this junk.