SYLVANIA - Headlight Restoration Kit - 3 Easy Steps to Restore Sun Damaged Headlights with Exclusive UV Block Clear Coat, Light Output and Beam Pattern Restored, Long Lasting Headlight Restorer Kit

Over the years, I’ve tried several different products to restore plastic headlights. None of them lived up to the hype or claims. With 3 other products, even when freshly “restored”, the headlights never looked new. And I’d be lucky if I got 6 months or so until they started to yellow again.Until I tried the Sylvania headlight restoration product.I first used this product on my dad’s old 2002 Suburban. Those headlights had never been restored. I restored them about 11 months ago and they still look brand new.The real challenge was the 2006 300C with 336k miles. See the pictures. I tried another product with more course sandpaper that required a drill. I wasn’t happy with how badly that kit scored the plastic, so I never finished them. That was over two years ago. The car sat in the sideyard waiting for me to have time to finish working on multiple projects to get it ready to give to a family member.As I’m about done and one of the last projects was to restore the headlights, I decided to give the Sylvania product a try.I used no tools. Just the supplied sandpaper, polishing goop and lots of elbow grease. I made sure to use quality painter tape to protect the painted surfaces from the sandpaper. Full disclosure: Due to the large size of these headlights and that I also needed to refinish the fog lights, I used one kit for the one side’s lights .. headlight and fog light.The magic to this kit is the surface activator. It starts removing the yellowing and old coatings the instant it is sprayed on. Wow. Due to the heavier scratches from the previous kit and that the lenses were in the weather for years without any protection (the previous brand’s kit ground most, but not all, of the old clear coat off of the lenses), I took extra time with the 400 grit and 1000 grit sandpapers. Making sure to use lots of water to keep the surface lubricated and clean of sanding debris.I used the supplied white c-fold paper towels for the clarifying compound and then Bounty paper towels for the final wipe down and drying.The supplied UV block clear coat is very thick and it’s the final magic to making this product last so long. When applying the clear coat, you really need to make sure you’re using the blue paper towel correctly. Think of a squeegee. You want both sides of the folded edge of the paper towel to be heavily saturated with the clear coat. About 1/2” on both sides of that fold from top to bottom. Then start at the top on one side and slowly pull the saturated edge of the paper towel from one side to the other, making sure to manipulate the towel as needed to have full coverage as you move. Do one pass, re-saturate the edge top to bottom, then apply the next pass making sure to overlap the passes. Keep doing rhat until completely covered.As it takes 4-6 hours to cure and the car stays outside, I covered the lenses (headlight and fog light) with sheets of paper and used painters tape to hold them in place overnight. If you need to do something similar, MAKE SURE whatever you use to cover the lenses while the clear coat is curing has no chance of touching the surface.I supplied several pictures with the driver’s side complete. No lights, nighttime lights and daytime driving lights. You can see the amazing before and after.I can’t recommend this product enough. It’s simply the best product out there, bar none.

My headlights most likely weren't near as bad as those belonging to the average person considering this project. I don't live on the East Coast, where my car would be subjected to extreme humidity, salty air, and harsh Winters (though we do live near the beach)- and the car was primarily garaged for the second half of it's life before I purchased it. But the passenger's side headlight was covered in strange splotchy patches of buildup and the driver's side was considerably fogged over. It was clear at one point in it's life the car had received primarily direct sun to the driver's side.This is a bit more involved than just wiping away the years from your headlights- But it does include everything you need (no extra tools required) and will take the average DIYer about an hour to complete both headlights. Keep in mind that, while anyone can do this project, your results will vary depending on how strictly you follow the instructions and if you have an previous experience with restoration or wet sanding. Yes, I said sanding.+ I suggest you also have on hand before starting- painters tape, lots of shop rags, a bowl of water and a bucket of water, an extra glove, a face mask, a marker to label the back of your sandpaper halves, and something to sit on.+ Work in a well aerated area, in the shade- away from any natural or artificial wind.Begin by taping off the liner and paint immediately surrounding your headlight with a durable painter's tape. The kit claims that the materials used will not harm paint- but the instructions suggest taping- and I certainly would for 2 reasons: 1.) We noticed the first solution we used took the color off our shop rags, so it seemed to have some sort of acid or bleach in it, 2.) You will eventually be sanding right up against your car's paint- not point in risking anything there. You will also want to start with a clean car.Next, treat the headlight surface with the Step 1 Activator, generously spraying, and allow it to sit about 30 seconds before washing away. Here's what we noticed about this process- 1.) The spray is very aromatic in a chemical sense- you will need to step back for air, and you should always be working in an open, well aerated, shady area. I highly suggest wearing a simple paper face mask to help diffuse fumes, and that you keep your face as far back from the solution/mist as possible. 2.) You will be using this bottle a total of 4 times, 2 treatments each headlight, so you should expect to use about 1/4 of the bottle each time. 3.) Given the nature of the product and spray we suggest you wear gloves and wipe the solution off with a wet rag to clean the lens before continuing- rather than use a hose which may send the solution flying onto your car and other surfaces.Once the Activator solution has been cleaned off the lens, and the lens has been dried, it will quickly begin to cloud. This is normal and you will see this after every step from here until the final UV coat.Now you're ready to begin sanding- the kit includes 3 sheets, 1 each of 2000, 1000, and 400 grit wet sanding paper. You should tear them in half and make note of which is which with a written indicator on the back since you will be using half a sheet for each lensMy father and I had some disagreement as to whether a mask should be worn through the sanding process- since this is a wet sanding procedure. I am going to suggest you do since we did see quite a bit of kickback debris on clothing and even in his ear after the sanding process.To wet sand you will want a small bowl of clean water nearby, and a clean cloth (to wipe up any drips that may make their way onto your car's paint. Wet the lens with the wet cloth, and submerge the sanding paper into the water. Begin sanding (you'll start with the 400 grit for the first step) in circular motions from the top corner of the headlight inward. You should expect to continue sanding for approximately 5 minutes- though cars with less build up may require less time. You will be able to tell you are done when the headlight has reached a uniform, smooth, texture, and there are no clear sections visible.Rinse your headlight and continue with the repeating the above process of sanding, using the 1000 grit sandpaper. Sand in circular motions with a wet lens and sandpaper for approximately 5 minutes, clean, then repeat with the 2000 grit. When you are done sanding you should have a clean, dry, foggy lens.Next you will apply the Clarifying Compound, which we closely attribute to a sort of buffing wax. Wet your lens with a clean wet rag and apply half of the compound to the provided white towel. Starting at the lower corner of the headlight, in sweeping circular motions, buff the clarifying compound into the lens for approximately 5 minutes.We were worried this compound would dry out during a 5 minute buff, but it actually seemed to break down and glide even more the longer we worked it into the lens. Once you are done clean and dry the lens. You will begin to notice the lens will maintain a glossy 'wet' look as though it is holding water along the surface.Now you'll treat with the activator once more- spraying evenly, approximately 1/4 of the original bottle fill. Allow the solution to sit on the surface of the lens for 30 seconds then clean thoroughly and dry. It's important after this step that you remove the tape, and any residue, and dry the lens, and surrounding rubber gasket. The lend and surrounding surfaces should be entirely dry before moving on to the final step.It's important to note that all of the steps up to this point should be completed on BOTH headlights before moving onto the final step as to ensure one headlight is not disturbed while curing, etc.You're provided one glove for the final step, the UV treatment- both of us agree you'll want 2 gloves if possible. This UV Block Clear Coat sets really quick and feels like superglue nail polish as it tacks to your skin- be sure to avoid contact with your fingers, and have a damp, clean, rag on hand to wipe up any drips that might get into your car's paint surface.For this final step you really can't 'go back' and add a second layer, or adjust it after the fact. The UV coat dries rapidly, so you'll want to try and get as much of the solution onto the provided shammy as possible so you can really drench the lens and apply in as minimal strokes as possible. Going back and 'swiping' through after even 30 seconds can leave tacky streaks and impurities in the final coating. It's also important to note you will not want to drive your car, or touch the headlights for a minimum of 4-6 hours- the surface of my headlights was still 'tacky' at around 4, so I suggest going the full 6.Throughout this process you really don't have a proper idea of the final impact until that last UV treatment reveal- it truly does instantly clarify. I'll admit, the thought of sanding my headlights to make them clearer was initially unnerving, but it really makes a lot of sense! There's no arguing my headlights look practically new to the naked eye, and the kit's manufacturer guarantees the new UV coating will last the life of my car. Even better I've gained over double the visibility at night, which was a huge safety concern before! I would definitely do this again on other vehicles, and recommend it to friends and family!

I have a 14 year old car and after living in Houston the sun really took a toll on my headlights. They were so dim that I could barely see at night. I bought this product and was amazed at the results! The pictures speak for themselves whether it works or not but I’ll speak to the process.It is a rather intensive job that took me an hour or 2 to complete (but I’m very thorough.) I sanded to the recommended time (5 minutes each headlight) a total of 4 times and it was well worth it. The second photo demonstrates that it will look worse before it gets better — sanding with 400 grit is sure to leave it hazy but the last UV protectant coating really brings the shine after the whole process is complete.Overall — well worth the money! I can see when I drive at night again!