Powerbuilt - 13 Pc. Master Inner Tie Rod KIT135, Specialty Tools - Steering & Suspension, (647785)

It's hard to go wrong with a basic chunk of metal with no moving parts. The critical issues with such an item are quality of alloy, fit, finish and, in this case, weld.This Taiwan-made Wilmar (a.k.a. Performance Tool brand) product seems to be of high quality.It's heavy and, considering it's hollow, I believe this is probably decent quality alloy. The minimum thickness of the socket is 1/8".The finish is nice and even. There's a small spot of missing finish (bare metal) on the drive end of mine which made it past QC.The weld job (socket to handle) appears very well done; see my pic. The joint is true and and smooth. It seams (pardon pun) that an automated welding lathe was involved.The tool features a diamond grip; it's difficult to see in the Amazon image, so I posted a better one.The socket fit my new Motorcraft 1 5/16" rods like a glove, with almost no play. With rod inserted normally, the tool's socket covers 1 1/16" (5/8" of the flats) of the nut. The rod end is visible, but does not encroach upon the drive pocket.My first impressions of this tool were quite favorable, especially given the much lower price as compared with equivalent versions from high-end brands.update 10-26-13:It worked as advertised, but there are a couple of issues I faced which others may run into:1. I had to go to the extra trouble of disconnecting the sway/stabilizer bar links so that I could pivot the sway bar up out of the way in order for this tool to be slid over the new tie rod nuts. It couldn't be used without getting that sway bar out of the way. This is, of course, vehicle dependent and YMMV.2. Using this type of tool can be a 2-man job. Torquing down without counter compensation (i.e., a wrench on the rack gear) can damage the steering gear. This is not too much of an issue on the driver's side, since the two wrenches are near one another -- it still takes a good bit of muscle; my vehicle was not on a lift and I had to use my foot to push on a crescent wrench which was on the rack (you'll want to use a fairly large wrench) while torquing down the tie rod.The passenger side is another story.Unless the vehicle is on a lift, it can be exceptionally difficult if not impossible to apply counter to the rack flat while torquing down the passenger side tie rod. Even with the vehicle on a lift, the user may find it difficult to impossible to do alone, largely due to the distance between wrenches.However, for installing either side, a ratcheting wrench (crescent type or open-end) or crows foot on a ratchet handle could be set in place to keep the rack still, if there's room for doing this on a given vehicle and the ratchet tooth spacing (handle arc) permits it.

didn't work for me or my 2006 Chevy Tahoe Z71. I sent it back and borrowed an inner tie rod end tool from O'reilly's for free!!