LoctitePlastic Bonder, 0.85 fl oz, Syringe 1 Pack

Good product. It is slightly different from other similar epoxies which makes it better in some applications.First it is thick and does not run. It won't even run together in the bottom of the mixing cup. It is perfect for applications where you do not want it to run or drip. I used it to fill screw holes in an EV body where the substrate behind the outer shell had rotted away. I needed to fill a volume of about a cubic inch to make a solid base to screw in anchors. I used a large syringe without a needle and packed the mixed epoxy into the syringe with a Popsicle stick before injecting it in.Any other epoxy would have run back out or run down between the inside wall sections but this filled the void nicely and did not run back out. After an hour I was able to drill it out and after two I installed the bolts. I will wait overnight before tightening.Second is that it seems to have some solvents to make it adhere to plastic. It definitely is more plastic itself which allowed me to drill it and install the bolts without worrying about it being too hard and cracking.Third is the 20 minute setting time. This allows enough time to do the mixing and application even if there are several places that it is being applied to without it setting up while I am working with it. The 20 minute setup time is the time between mixing and the time it cannot be worked any more. I would say that it can be trimmed or drilled in about an hour and would perhaps accept a light load in two but will not fully cure for several hours. I prefer tins to having to rush like mad to get it mixed and use it before it becomes unworkable.The negatives are few and obvious.It cannot be dribbled down between parts to help hold in a concealed area.It costs many times more per ounce than getting it in a larger container and mixing in the thickener as needed.It does not seem to set up as hard as regular Epoxy or Epoxy with thickeners and/or bonding agents like the West System ones. It is definitely "Plastic" rather than "Rock Hard" so make sure that is what you want.Robs recommendation-The combination of convenience and plasticity along with the leisurely set time was perfect for me. There are many variations on the epoxy theme. Pick the right one before using them.

Maybe it's just me but does anyone else notice how similar this stuff smells to dental filling? And it's even tooth color. Creepy.Anyway, I can't attest to it fixing a chair like it shows on the bottle, so maybe they should change that picture. What I do like about this epoxy though is how strong and workable it is after curing. I have used it several times to replace broken off tabs. One recent repair was on a dome light cover for my 89 mitsubishi truck. Due to the difficulty of finding one off parts I had to come up with other means of repair.I was able to rough up the surface a bit, apply a mound of epoxy, and then shape it once it was cured. Speaking generally, it has very similar properties to that type of plastic. The new tab holds up and I was able to reattach the dome light without the rebuilt tab popping off. And just to be clear there was no tab left at all, this wasn't reattaching the busted tab, it was building it up from scratch. I'm sure the jb weld crew knows that I'm talking about.If I use it for anything larger I'll be sure to update my review, but for what I described above it works great each time I've needed it.My one gripe, and maybe this is just how stuff settles, but the big air bubbles in the thing drive me nuts. The resin and hardener are thick, so moving air bubbles in it sucks. And what happens to me on nearly every bottle is one side gets an air bubble at the top, so I end up squeezing out a bunch of hardener or a bunch of resin without anything coming out of the other side until I clear the air bubble. If anyone has some tips on that, please let me know.

EDIT & UPDATE 5 YEARS LATER Sept 2019: I dropped 1 star because I realized this does not work nearly as well as I had originally thought. Upon closer inspection, it does not actually seem to fuse the plastic together the way common cheap styrene plastic melts together solid with liquid (solvent) cement. Instead, I think the roughing up of the surfaces I did, created a lot of tiny fuzz and pits and valleys for this Epoxy to grab on to, and the nature of the parts I repaired were such that the strength of the epoxy solidifying in 1 piece likely provided the majority of the joint strength.In other words, view this more as a patch than as a plastic weld. Other attempted repairs were a broken green outdoor plastic lawn chair, which failed instantly despite meticulous prep, and a slightly flexible laundry basket handle that had broke. It did hold up on the laundry basket for 4-6 months but I could see it cracking and beginning to let loose from the smooth laundry basket plastic. (Think how heavy a load of wet clothes are when you’re carrying with the 2 handles). Ultimately, I drilled holes between 2 support ribs under the handle, installed 2 plastic zip ties to form a tight, solid mechanical joint of the 2 broken sections, and then slathered the entire thing with this Epoxy Plastic Bonder. THAT repair truly HAS held now for over 2 years and I don’t think it will ever fail - stronger than new.END OF EDIT (original review below:)When I saw the package boldly stating "FUSES PLASTICS", it was music to my ears.Anyone who's broken something made out of Delrin a.k.a. slippery black "engineering plastic", knows it can't be glued back together because any glue you use just cracks loose when its dry.I read customer reviews saying this works for gluing Delrin, despite the package not specifically mentioning Delrin. I had an O scale model railroad car where the trucks (the bottom of the car that swivels and holds the 2 axles and wheels) had broken in 2 pieces - making it impossible to hold the wheelsets.I used this like JB Weld basically, mixed equal portions on cardboard and stirred with an old nail, then globbed it on and shaped until it looked the best I could manage. (Its pretty sticky).I didn't clamp (instructions do not mention a need for this) but I allowed overnight drying as told.The result? Seems to be rock solid! I didn't want to push my luck and see how far I could bend before the joint broke.. But to install the wheelsets you need to spread the trucks open, putting significant force on whole thing, and amazingly I felt zero indication the joint was anything other than solid! (My fear was I'd glue it, spread the trucks to install the wheelsets, and the repaired piece would immediately just crack off from the force.)This glue produced a bond that gives me a lot of CONFIDENCE I can TRUST it to hold together long term, and that's the most important thing. I already forgot which truck is the one I repaired. (Nothing's worse than fixing something but knowing its still "the weak one" and having to always baby it for fear of it breaking again.)The only negatives I can say about this glue are:- it took a bit of waste squirting out of 1 tube before the other tube began to flow. (The instructions say to let the tubes stand upright to allow air bubbles to rise to the top so they'll be equalized. I tried this for 30 seconds but it didn't seem like there was any movement, as its a thick consistency. Best idea is to stand it up well before you attempt to use it, then you're guaranteed air has risen as far as it can.)- it does smell a little foul but not too strong. Not as bad as some other epoxies I've used.