EZ-Stik Hot Professional 3D Printer Build Surface from GeckoTek 247x160mm

Happier than an antelope with night vision goggles!I have a very crude setup.An 'original' reprap Prusa Mendel that was built from scratch and has been upgraded over the last 5 years. Used as a test bed for various technologies it has been very easy to work on. BTW, the build surface is a piece of laminate flooring turned upside down for the flattest surface I had at the time.One thing it does not have is a heated bed. I have used blue tape and purple glue stick with varying success wih PLA at about 190C and about 10-30mm/sec or less for the first layer.Lately I have found that the parts will stick to the tape, but the tape would lift. (!?!)When I started printing bigger parts (namely the fantastic Ford flathead v8 and now the Mazda rotary) from ericthepoolboy on Thingiverse, I find that some of these parts lift no matter what due to their size.After getting the GeckoTec build surface those same prints come out trouble free. (YAY) I have reprinted some parts that were marginal using blue tape and have found that I can increase my first layer printing speed at least 25% No other changes were made to the Gcode files.The cost for the build surface will be much less than the equivalent amount of blue tape and glue stick, and that is a Good Thing.Do yourself a big favor and get this build surface.BTW, the uploaded picture shows as rotated 180 in the edit screen (?)If it is rotated in the review, that is not how the picture previews on my PC.

Don't let a hot nozzle touch it!I bought EZ-Stik before it was on Amazon, and only available directly from the manufacturer. It has pros and cons, and special considerations.My printer: A heavily modified ROBO R1 Plus. Of note for this product is I've added a 24 volt power supply to the bed heater (the bed heats faster than the nozzle), and I've upgraded to MESH leveling firmware.First, my settings of choice for ABS:Bed: 105Nozzle: 225First layer at least .30 mmPros:It has worked flawlessly for printing ABS (my filament of choice) with no lifting. It really does work well. I haven't had to even use the enclosure I made for the printer using this surface.Cons:You must wait for the bed and model to cool below 30 deg C. Not kind of cool, but your bed must be all the way cool. If you try and cheat and lift early, you will permanently distort the EZ Stik and make ripples on it, or you could tear it. (Ask me how I know....)I have one small spot where the adhesive is not grabbing the bed, but everywhere else is grabbing extremely well. This is likely due to user error: You MUST clean your bed perfectly with alcohol to 110% clean before application! I think I did a very good job of cleaning my bed, so I will put this in the con section.Considerations:You CANNOT let the hot end touch this surface when EITHER ONE is hot. Do your MESH leveling when cool.You also MUST home the printer at a corner and home Z there, where you cut out a small square of the EZ Stik so the nozzle homes on bare glass (you don't print at X0 Y0 anyway). If you have proximity sensor for Z, you will be in good shape with this bed.You really can't let the hot end touch this material, it WILL damage it, especially when either one is hot. Can't stress that enough.Don't "squish" the first layer on this material. It isn't needed, nor desired.Make sure your first layer is nice and slow. I run default printing speeds around 3400, but I bring first layer speeds down to at least 60% of that for the first layer.Conclusion: while not forgiving like glass for hot end mishaps, this is a great product for those who print in ABS (can't vouch for other filaments) and are dealing with the dreaded ABS lift/curl issues. If you normally multi-point auto-level your bed, you MUST do that when both the hot end and extruder are cold (Consider switching to MESH leveling firmware though, its better anyway). If you can't, this product isn't right for your printer. Figure on screwing up your first sheet by learning how to adjust your printer for this printing surface.Oh, and buy their (or a comparable) print removal tool for this material. Working without it is difficult.

Seems to work better than the default bed material that came with the printer. I'm having the issue where the power supply that came with it isn't strong enough to keep the bed at higher than 50c. The GeckoTek seems to transfer heat more evenly across the bed for me and temporarily solved my issue where my prints wouldn't stick. Very happy.

This stuff is great! Just about everything will stick to it. I printed some Nylon and I literally could not get it to release. I could not pry it off ( which damaged the EZ-Stick), I finally had to heat the glass to get get it to release

Printing ABS - Bed at 105C - Extruder at 220C....I've tried printing 3 times now. All 3 times, it starts and looks pretty, until I walk away and come back to find this nest....

I had been printing using glue for my 3d prints and had many first layer failures. This product has eliminated all my print problems. I have printed about 60 parts with it so far with no first layer adhesion issues. Great product.

I have been using the EZ-stik Hot build surface from GeckoTek on 3 different printers for about 3 months now. To be honest, this is the best surface I have used as of yet. It offers very good adhesion to a wide range of different filaments. I have used it with PLA, ABS, PETg, and TPE. All prove to work very well, especially TPE. I run a 3D printing shop so we go through a lot of 3D printing jobs and this surface proved to be the best of all that we have tested.One trick I found useful is to wipe the surface with IPA every 10 or so prints. Dust and oils sometimes settle on the surface. Both of which hinder adhesion.You just need to dial in your settings and do systematic tests just like any other part in 3D printing. If you are in 3D printing, you should not expect many parts to just work out of the box with no settings or adjustments. So take your time with setting this build plate and you will enjoy it. Also make sure your printer is not in a drafty area. That is the number one cause of peeling and warping, even for PLA.

This is an outstanding surface for printing nylon. Compared to PEI, adherence to the plate is much stronger and there is no need for glue.