White PETG Filament 1.75 mm 1KG 3D Printer Filament 2.2LBS Spool 3D Printing Material Fit Most FDM Printer Easy to Print CC3D White Color

I have just went through almost two spools of this filament and it prints great for me. I did print some temperature towers to determine the best temperatures. I am using a Pruse MK3S+. I had to heat the bed to 85 C for the first layer and I print at 90 C for the remaining layers so that the print stays adhered to my bed.Then I set the nozzle to 240 C to print the first layer. I have printed the remaining layers at both 215 C (milky white) and 200 (blue grey) and the layer adhesion is great at bot temperatures. I cannot pull my prints apart and I tried pulling as hard as I could. So it seems forgiving on the layer temps.However, you can see the layers more so on the prints at 200 C than the ones at 215 C. But I had almost no stringing at the lower temp. However, I did not have much stringing at the 215 C temp. I think I will continue printing at 215 and may adjust my initial layer temp down to 230.I would not have tried printing at 200 C, but I typed the temperature wrong and did not notice until after I printed several pieces. The overall look is nice. I am very happy with this filament.Since I figured out good temperature settings for my printer, I am giving it 5 stars.

They claim +/- .04mm and boy are they honest. I measure between 1.68 and 1.75mm for this filament. Of the cheapo bargain petg filament this has the deepest black and the fewest strings. The texture of the filament is a strange snake skin but it seems to print fine regardless.

Very good price, and as a bonus it works incredibly well with the Basic PETG settings on the Bambu lab carbon X1, with no manual tuning required. The diameter of the spool is perfect for the AMS.

I have a couple of 3D printers. I like to use PETG because it seems to print better and holds up better than PLA. I love the color of this pink filament. It sticks to my bed just fine and prints perfectly with minimal flaws or stringing. I liked it so much, I ordered 2 more rolls. It is great PETG filament.

Although this filament calls for printing around 225c I found it best at 245c. But that may vary depending on your printer. To me it seems PETG filament flows better than PLA and I can get faster print times.My Settings in Cura areHotend 245c Bed 90cFirst layer difficult to get to stick and flow correctly.**Update 4/12/2023Still getting first layer globs, only thing that helps is increasing the first layer speed to about 40mm/s.I print with other brands of PETG without this issue so I won't be buying this brand again.

Used a lot of different filaments in the 3 years I've been printing this is one of the best by far.

I print a lot of PETG and it doesn't matter if it's top shelf or economy they do indeed tend to string more than PLA filaments. This one is no different. It's a little less expensive and maybe a little more stringy but I'm able to produce quality usable prints without exception throughout the roll. So I would call it a good value. I just deal with the stringing by adjusting retraction and hitting the fine threads with a heat gun to clean up the models. Just a little extra work no biggie. Adhesion is excellent on my PEI textured plate. Simply excellent.

For $17 shipped to my door it's pretty good. The material is unfortunately inconsistent at times. Picture shows the same exact part on the same printer (Prusa i3 MK3S) with the same program. The only difference is the spool, I ran out of the very nice looking blue-gray on my second to last leg of this project. This is the third roll of the blue-gray, and unfortunately this one has proved to be difficult to print and very brittle compared to the other two. I'm going to go back to my favorite brand - Prusament. Unfortunately this requires a box of filament to be purchased from the Czech Republic to be price competitive. My second choice is Overture. Third choice will be CC3D if the color is not available otherwise. It's just not worth the $3 delta in price. You would have to get 6 consistent rolls to break even and I just don't think that is possible. I thought I was crazy and started cleaning everything, replacing nozzles etc. I am certain it is the material - swapping it for some Prusament fixed the problem. The adhesion of this roll is nutty too. I can barely get it off my textured prusa sheet - this is usually not the case.

This is not PETG, its melt point is well below 220c and it is very brittle. This appears to be PLA and smells like PLA, despite the labelling. Although the box label states "Silver PETG filament ...alic PLA Silver Color". this in itself is unclear yet the spool clearly states PETG.It prints like PLA once temps were reduced accordingly but utterly useless for designed prints.Very disappointed.

I'm pretty sure this isn't PETG. Or, if it is, it's not like any other I've used. It likes to be printed a fair bit cooler than normal PETG and the base warps like crazy. That's something I've never experienced with PETG before. I can usually print objects with quite large thick bases without the corners curling up. No chance with this stuff.

I'm very new to 3D printing and decided to jump straight into the deep end and buy some PETG. Probably not the best decision buying the cheapest one on amazon, but after a full roll I've finally managed to start getting reasonable prints. I bought an Aquila, also about the cheapest 3d printer on amazon, ha ha. It turns out the settings I've settled on differ quite a lot from recommended petg settings one might find on the net. To make things even harder, this brand seems to require very precise tuning, making even small changes is enough to get failed prints. I've just swapped over from bowden to direct feed and also gone from brass to a hardened steel nozzle. It then took another day to retune. For others with a similar setup, I'm printing at 35mm/s, 227 degrees Nozzle temp, (was around 221 for brass), 5 degrees higher and you'll get massive stringing and blobbing no matter the retraction settings. Bed temp 83 degrees for first 2 layers and then down to 50, A glue stick (glass build plate) is pretty much a must if you don't want the print to warp half way through. Fan 40% max, or lower if you need a more rigid print. Dialing in retraction was the biggest pain. Every forum and website on the entire internet says to set it somewhere between 20 and 40mm/s or even faster. I had no luck at any of those speeds, I needed to take it down to 13mm/s,. Retraction distance 3.25mm direct feed and 6.2mm using the bowden setup. Obviously every printer setup is going to vary, but these might be a good starting point. PS. Only change one setting at a time when tuning

This came and it is petg pro. It prints a little hotter (220-260) and sticks really well to the bed. I may have to lower the bed temp as it stuck almost too well. The prints came out absolutely amazing. The finish is so nice and the parts are really strong like tough and flexible. I printed a tiny whoop frame with it and it’s the closest thing I’ve found to the original flexibility and strength of the frame it came with. I always dehydrate my filament before using so anyone having problems I would suggest you try drying it out. I want more but it doesn’t seem to be available anymore. I might try the white but I really like the gold.

The white filament strings like a female dog, has good layer adhesion, good bed adhesion, but this PETG is far too brittle. It breaks like it was made out of hard candy, almost like it has a crystalline structure. At first I assumed it was my heat settings, so I played around with my nozzle temp & cooling fan speed, nope.Next I thought It might be too cold in my print room so I built an enclosure, nopeThen as a final test I printed the part with 100% infill just to verify it wasn't a design flaw, nope.I can break a 100% infill part that has a 25.4mm x 12.7mm (1" x 1/2") cross section like I can break a KitKat bar. I've used other brands of PETG that have more strength in parts half the thickness.I won't be buying this brand again.