21-2225 10-Inch Prybar and Nail Puller (3-(Pack))

These used to be really great tools. Made in Japan and had a super thin blade that was very hard. Nearly impossible to bend. I just bought a new one as I have about worn the old one out after 18-20 years, This one has a much thicker taper to the blade and no longer says "Made in Japan" so assume they went the China route like nearly everyone else has done. One tip was bent when prying on back splash tile set in mastic. I do not believe that could have happened with my old one. Going to chuck this one in the backup toolbox and see if I can find another one made in Japan to the old standards this one used to be. These tools work great in general, but save yourself some money as this one seems to be the same quality as the one you can get from Harbor Freight for 1/3 of the price.Disappointing...

Does exactly what it’s supposed to! I used this to remove both interior and exterior window trim. I like the thinner profile of the blade which makes it easier to separate trim pieces from the wall. The nail remover also works very well. No, this is not made in Japan (the packaging says made in China), but it’s a nice tool for the money!

I have several other small pry bars, obtained in the search for the "one" that works. Well, I think that this Shark is the "one". I was involved in a small demolition project of some wooden privacy fence, when the box arrived, so the Shark didn't see any wasted time before I was knocking the paint off of the driver end. That wide, flat, sharp blade is just super for getting into the cracks and opening them up. I was trying to save some of the wooden slats and this bar was the best at doing that.The blade is sharp, about as sharp as many of the cheaper knives you'll find for sale, which is a great feature. You do have to be careful with it when using the other end, because it can cut you. I really like that the blade end doesn't have a large curve. The gentle curve lets you get down into the cracks to the nails, before it starts putting a lot of pressure on the wood. I have some photos showing the low profile of this blade compared to my other tools, that I'll put up later.My only complaint is that they don't make a longer version of this pry bar that I can buy. There were a few times when I needed more leverage than I could get with the 10 inch bar. I will probably order this pry bar, for the times I need more leverage,  Estwing PB-18 18-Inch Pry Bar .. But, the Shark is certainly a keeper, moving to the head of the line of my prying tools.

This thing rocks! Kinda strange to be reviewing a prybar but this is my go to tool for removing molding, flooring, staples, nails etc. The key is how sharp and thin the blade is. Easily slips into paper thin cracks or digs under nail heads and doesn't bend or break. I have owned one for years with no issues. Recently bought a second one because my wife keeps grabbing it while we are working on projects and then we argue over who has to use the crappy old style prybar. Now I own two. :)

This style has been dubbed a "Molding Bar", with the flared end.I have doing my own work around houses for 30+ years, and a working carpenter for many, as well. For me, when it comes to small cracks behind delicate work the Sharks are the ones for me. I also use thick bladed puddy scrapers for less firm holds, but when I might bend the scraper, like with oak molding, The Sharks come out. The puddy knife can then go against the prying surface to keep the heal of the bar from marring pry surface. Reason being, the Shark Corp bars are ground much thinner at the flared end, but, tempered to the same strength as other brands, which I have now given or sold to others. If one style can do it better, in most of all its' features, why have the others. I have one 8" and two 10" of these flare bladed style. I also have 3 larger straight "nail pullers" of different brands, of 12" and a 15". Right tool for the right job!The flare end for molding? Yes. The other nail pulling end for finish nails? Yes. For pulling 14, 16, 18p, nails? Get a longer, 12", nail puller. You can pull longer nails by putting gradually different thicknesses of wood under the heal (90 degree end/claw side) (which I always recommend something flat 1/8" to 1/4" under the heal, "Absolutely, for finished surfaces", so you don't mar the surface the heal would pivot on.), but I have found it awkward, a few times, not grabbing the longer puller, "not readily at hand", and start pulling on a 3" nail, only to grab something else to finish.Things to compare to other brands:1) Thickness (thinner) to strength of flared end ( If you have read reviews or used a Shark, "No comparison. Shark Corp wins")2) The nail pulling jaw: How deep is the V notch in the throat? What thickness of nail can it pull and How well does it grip a nail, pulling? How thin and strong is the end of the nail puller for getting under nail heads, without gouging out much of a hole in the project wood?3) As a hole product: Compact, Tempered well (bending strength), designed very well (in all details), especially for doing molding, and other tight work involving prying small cracks.4) The flared end can be good for quick scraping in a pinch5) If the price is a dollar or two more, the Shark Corp is worth it.Where it excels for me: Hardwood floors and molding refinishing, installing inlays, doorways and custom trim, stone tiles tight to wood, etc.,... Just a few, very important, times when if you mess something up with the wrong technique (slip, mar, or indent), you may wreck the project or take a lot more time fixing.For me, I am also speaking on the professional side. This should just be a great "what ever" small pry bar for any one.

I bought this product after researching pry bars that could safely remove wood trim intended for re-use. The business end is considerably thinner (and sharper!) than other products I've tried and easily got behind the pieces to be removed. Despite its small size it produced enough leverage to remove all but the largest trim pieces (which needed some help once the Shark had gotten the process started). I only lost a few pieces to splintering and none of them were irreproducible. Sadly, but toward the end of the job, I drove the Shark into a masonry nail which put a nick into the cutting edge as well as bending it (making it less easy to insert behind tightly fastened trim pieces). So, if you intend to use a hammer or mallet to engage the tool, do so with care--particularly if the trim pieces are attached with heavy-duty fasteners. Overall a great product and I'll be buying a new one if I am unable to restore the cutting edge.