3D Printer PLA Silk Filament 1.75mm, Neatly Wound &Smooth Silky Shiny Surface PLA Filament, 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, Fit Most FDM Printer(Silk Titanium Silver)

We bought 10kg of this in yellow. Normally we buy other brands, but due to the plastic shortage right now, we're buying any brand or color we can get. This is my 2nd time buying CCTREE, and since last time they changed their spools. We put on 5 spools at the same time on 5 printers, and about ~60-70 hours into 4-day/980g prints (on each printer), 4 of the 5 printers failed because of the poor spool design, and the filament got stuck on the spool hooks. Seems that once the spool gets light enough, it can wobble around and the filament line to the printer can get caught. Very annoyed we just chucked $100 of material away because of this. I've never had this happen before, and I suspect whoever designed these spools never printed a day in their life. If you do buy this, make sure you cut the spools to get rid of the hooks before printing.

The CCTREE Shiny Silk PLA came packaged in a cardboard box with a vacuum sealed bag and desiccant to keep it freshThe surface of my print has great detail with a silky smooth finish, vibrant ocean blue color. I'm very happy with the finish very minor stringing ( I have to tune in my settings).I printed my box at 200°C with a bed temp of 60°C. Great adhesion on my magnetic build surface. After printing the box came off the build plate easily without any hassle.I am very happy with this CCTREE PLA and look forward to trying other colors. I will definitely buy thos PLA again.

I thought I would try this filament because it's slightly cheaper than the brand I usually use. The first print I tried had significant stringing. I was able to eliminate most of it by lowering the extruder temp, but there was still some present. That also left my print with more surface artifact than I normally like to see. The color is gorgeous, and the spool is well wound with good side visibility, so you're able to easily tell how much you have left. I just wish the filament wasn't so temperamental.

Most filaments "fight" with my 3D printer a little. Some are unusually "stringy". This filament did neither to me. It was perhaps the easiest filament that I've worked with. Aside from that, it is gorgeous and created a beautiful print.Based on what I witnessed, I am going to seriously look into the manufacturer's other products and hopefully use their filament line for all of my future needs. I can't stress enough what a delight it was to use this product.

I have tried a few different brands of Silk PLa (TTYT3D, DO3D, CC3D) and this is the best I have tried so far. With many of the other brands I had to increase the nozzle temperature 5 degrees from my normal PLA settings, but I did not have to with this filament. This also had the best quality and consistency of any of the Silk PLA I have used on my printer (prusa i3 mk3s). I had no issues with extrusion or bed adhesion. The color was true to what you see in the image. I even used it to print ocean tiles for a game and it really looks like the ocean.

If you're thinking oh, this will be great for making parts that look like metal, you're looking at the wrong stuff.Don't get me wrong, it's great material for general purposes, but it absolutely does not even come close to looking like metal, and if you buy this with the idea that you can make parts that look like actual metal for your build you will be very disappointed. It looks like standard gray PLA with a bit of a sheen to it, that's it - but mostly it just looks like what it is, plastic. There are other silk PLA's that pull off the magic trick of resembling metal. This is not one of them.For some reason it ALSO won't go through the darned nozzle at anything less than 230°C. I've never seen a silk PLA with this kind of requirement, and went through a few nozzle jams before figuring this out.

It's really hard to get a shiny PLA surface with FDM printing, so no real surprise that printing at 0.2mm resolution gives you more of a dull gunmetal-gray than "titanium silver." Printing outer perimeters slowly (20-30mm/s), at a higher temperature than normal, and using 0.12mm layer heights (ender 3 printer here) improved things quite a bit, to where it at least looked dull metallic. I'm sure you could get to true silver with some finshing work but don't expect it out of the box.

From not sticking to the bed, horrible layer adhesion, and clogging issues this did not work well for me. I suggest another brand.