HiLetgo 250W DC-DC Module 10-40V to 10-50V 6A Adjustable Step-Up Power Supply Module 250W DC Booster Constant Voltage Constant Current Power Converter Module

I connected the boost converter (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T137H2Y) to an adjustable power supply module (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWXAC5E) on the output. And I have a Volt/Ammeter (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072BY4XZ7) on the input. All supplied by a 12V marine deep-cycle battery on the input. It was giving me 24v out from the start. I need 48v so I dialed this boot converter up to 50v, and fine-tune the output using the adjustable module. Been running for 2 weeks 24/7 and it's driving 7watts during the day and 15watts at night. No troubles so far! The output is powering a PoE ethernet hub that as a pair of PoE cameras (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V1WKRBB). It's all working really well! Once I'm done will the cameras, this will be my workbench power supply.

TL;DR -- The CC pot didn't work from the start and the board failed within minutes of testing.Open circuit testing. Set to 30v output. Voltage was stable with 12v in. Seemed promising. Powered down.Connected 200w 12 ohm load with current meter in series. Current was an unstable 2.5 amps. Turned CC pot in both directions. No change in output current.Open circuit set to 24v. Turned CC all the way cw. The CV adjust was cw lower, ccw raise which is counter intuitive.Attached load. Expected 0amps (or something low) but got 4 amps. Shut is down. Disconnected load. Checked open circuit voltage. Voltage reg stopped working and the open circuit Vout was 2.5v. CV pot had no effect after.So, no current control out of the box. Board failed with 96w output using a load on the output.Flux was still on the board (expected for an $8 board). Solder joints looked good. Board was an A1 revision.Anyway, if you buy this board I hope you have better luck than I did. Good luck.

After seeing some Youtube videos, I got this to try to revive a Ryobi 40v battery that would no longer charge. It came with zero instructions so you do have to figure things out on your own. There's no indicators for the output either so you'll need a multimeter so you can see the actual output while making adjustments.I had to connected to an old laptop power brick (19v 4.5A), had to try a few times before the output would actually adjust up to 40v. When charging is taking place, there is a faint clicking sound which is useful to know that it is working. Took nearly an hour to get the battery from 16v to 31v, and it is back to life. Now the Ryobi charger could charge it normally again.Product description said to add heat dispersion if output is >4A. In my case, output would be around 2A @ 40v. I did place the module on top of a small metal box to help disperse heat, but the whole unit is hot (not just warm) to touch after an hour. So definitely be mindful of heat build up if using for extended period of time.

Works as it should.

Constant values hold nicely as long as power-in is sufficient. I initially tried to adjust CC with no load on device. Just 10 amp DC range on VOM. For the short duration I put the meter across power-out (less than a second) it appeared that I was drawing max current well above 10 amp. The device survived that mistake so it has good short circuit protetion. Once I loaded the output both CV and CC were easily adjusted and accurate. Very little if any drift as long as power demand stays within reasonabe limits

Does output the rated power. BE CARFUL using power supplies and high cell batteries. If you do not resist the input flow of current the current ripple will blow them up violently. If using a power supply turn your amps down and bring them up slowly. If using high output batteries use a resistor or anti spark connectors. lipos will blow them with no current protection. Hear my warning.

I think this might be ok for some projects, but mine makes a high-pitched whining noise when it is powered and the voltage seems to float around a bit more than is ok for what I wanted to use it for.

While the voltage boost works well, the current limit feature is entirely bogus. It simply does nothing. The first unit I purchased didn’t work so I purchased a second and it also couldn’t limit the current. It is possible they used the wrong pot on the current adjustment so that it does nothing.

When I first time turned clockwise and counterclockwise the crew, voltage didn’t change. Second time I turned counterclockwise it worked. No manuals in package, better to have one. Otherwise people will complain and return it