Godox MS300 Studio Strobe 300Ws 110V GN58 5600K Bowens Mount Monolight, Built-in Godox 2.4G Wireless System, 150W Modeling Lamp, Outstanding Output Stability, Anti-Preflash, 1/32 to 1/1 Steps Output

I bought one of these, and previously a Godox SK300II. I wish I had gotten 2 of these instead. While the SK model has more heft, and possibly better durability, that's not as useful as the smaller size/lighter weight and extra step of light reduction in the MS model. Plus, if you're buying either of these it's because you're on a tight budget and the lighter weight of this model means you can get away with cheaper light stands. When I put the SK on a cheap stand, I constantly worried about tipping, not so much with this one. And as a bonus, the extra stop down of light to 1/32 (as opposed to 1/16) is useful if you trying to balance these against speedlights. But all the lights work well together, the SK300II this MS300 and my TT685S... all controlled with an XT1 transmitter. Of course these do not support TTL like the speedlight or the much nicer AD series, but the manual settings are perfect for both consistency and learning to control your light. The bowens style mount means you have a huge amount of options for light modifiers including some very reasonable softboxes and beauty dishes. Overall if you're working indoors and money is your biggest constraint, these punch in way above their price point.

I know what it feels like to be new on the game and to expend "much" money on something you don't know if it will fits your needs.For real this is the most versatile thing I have ever used when it comes to lights, at least of this type and within this range of price, is just good in every way, good quality for low price, light quality is good, the panel is just easy to use, no extra weird functions, construction is quite high end for the price, and to be honest, I don't think you will find something this good for this price. If you are a student, beginner or an amateur just starting, it will for sure fit most of your needs at least in indoor studio. I have used this with 40'' umbrellas and with 60'' octa w/bowens mount and not a single issue.One thing I found on internet that it did have, but it doesn't is : IT doesn't have HSS

UPDATE: The monolight is still working perfectly! It works seamlessly with my Godox X2T wireless flash trigger, and I can fully change and control all the functions of the monolight from the wireless trigger. I would definitely purchase this again!*************************First of all, 5 stars for this product. It really works nicely, and I can't believe what a bargain it is. The flash is crisp, fast, and unbelievably bright at it's highest setting. The modelling light does a decent job of simulating the "as lit" look from the flash, though its color temperature is a bit different. The unit is very versatile, and I'm just starting to experiment with its many possibilities using a snoot, reflector, and a diffuser.Now let's get to these pictures. I purchased my unit at a modest discount from the Amazon warehouse. The unit was advertised in "Used: Very Good" condition. I guess it's "very good" that it didn't burn down the house of the person that purchased it previously, because it looks as though it either caught fire, or very nearly did.The modelling lamp gets HOT!!! If you use it with the included plastic shroud for any significant amount of time, it WILL get hot enough to melt the shroud, and possibly catch it on fire. That's a lesson the previous owner learned for me.Why Amazon's warehouse felt that this was in sellable, let alone "very good" condition, is beyond me. It was listed as, "May contain minor cosmetic imperfections. Item packaging will be damaged." Good news: the packaging looked great!The "minor cosmetic imperfections" manifested as the shroud being thoroughly melted/burned to the modelling lamp, and also to the flash tube to a lesser degree. I contacted Amazon customer service, and a young man offered to swap the damaged item out for a new one, allowing me to obtain it at the used item discount. That was thoughtful, but hardly made up for the oversight.I countered, and asked if I could get a partial refund for the item, and try to recondition it. The representative offered to refund half the purchase price, but warned that if I was unable to make the item functional, then I would not be eligible to return it. I took the risk.Because one of you will probably find yourself in the position that the original purchaser did, HERE IS HOW TO FIX THIS ISSUE. Feel free to skip all of this if you don't have a melted shroud.The difficult part is getting the plastic shroud off if it has melted to the modelling light and/or the flash tube. First, if you cannot see what is happening inside the shroud, you will need to cut a hole in it so you can see. Do this using a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel, or something similar. It is important that you make the hole without significantly moving the shroud or putting strain on it, since this will break the modelling lamp bulb or the flash tube if they are melted to the shroud.Once you can see the flash tube, you can decide how to proceed. If the shroud is not fused to the flash tube, you can get it off by cutting a ring around the shroud, above the flash tube. Once you have cut all the way around, you should be able to unscrew the modelling bulb (along with the bit of the shroud stuck to it), while the base of the shroud remains locked in the mounting ring. Once the modelling bulb is free, you may go to work freeing bits of melted shroud from it until it is clean. A sharp utility knife and some acetone work well for this. Alternatively, throw away the bulb and buy a replacement at B&H Photo or similar; new bulbs run about $6 plus shipping. Make sure to get the bulb that matches your household voltage: 110-130 volts for the USA.If the base of the shroud is fused to the flash tube, you're in for some work. Like you did with the modelling lamp, cut a ring around the shroud, this time just below the flash tube. BE CAREFUL not to cut into the flash tube where it "turns" to go down into the mounting receptacle. Once you have cut the ring stuck to the flash tube away from the base, you have two options. You can pull the flash tube and the fused portion of the shroud out of the monolight, or you can work on getting the plastic off of the flash tube while the tube is still in place. I did the latter.The flash tube does not get as hot as the modelling lamp in normal use, and so it is likely that the shroud is only minimally fused to the flash tube. If you can identify a side where the shroud is not fused, use a Dremel, or carefully use scissors, wire cutters, etc. to cut the shroud ring that you made. Cut it so that you can unroll the plastic ring, and then proceed to do exactly that. Take great care in the areas that the ring is fused to the flash tube, but you should be able to peel the plastic away from the glass if you do not use too much force. Clean any remaining bits of plastic off the flash tube using a sharp utility knife and a rag soaked in acetone.That should leave only the base, which can easily be unlocked by disengaging the locking switch on the body of the monolight, just behind the silver mounting ring. Once the last of the shroud is gone, reinstall the flash tube and/or modelling bulb, and check them to see if they are still functioning. Spare flash tubes can be bought at B&H Photo for around $20.