4LifetimeLines 3/16" x 25' Genuine Copper-Nickel Alloy Non-Magnetic Brake Line Replacement Tubing Coil Roll & Fitting Kit, Inverted Flare, Easy to Bend, Corrosion Resistant

Best brake line to replace rusted leaking or broken brake lines. Easy to bend. Flares nicely with simple hand flare tools, seals well. Have replaced a lot of lines with this over the last ten years and have not seen any corrosion or rusting yet. Excellent line for worry free replacement, especially where the roads are salted and vehicles rust out in five years like hear in Wisconsin.

I've had the pleasure of using copper brake lines on multiple vehicles, and I have to say, they’ve consistently exceeded my expectations. Whether it’s for my own car or helping out friends and family, these brake lines have proven to be a lifesaver on more than one occasion.First off, the product is incredibly easy to work with. The copper material is pliable enough to be bent and shaped without much effort, making installation a breeze. What’s even better is that the fittings all threaded perfectly with no issues at all. Whether I was working with a custom setup or standard connectors, everything lined up smoothly, and I never had to worry about leaks or cross-threading.I've had to rely on these brake lines several times when others have run into brake line issues, and it's always been a relief to open my toolbox and have the exact length I need on hand. The copper is not only durable but also resistant to corrosion, which gives me peace of mind knowing they’ll hold up over time.All in all, I highly recommend these copper brake lines for anyone looking for a reliable, easy-to-install solution for brake line repairs or upgrades. It’s saved me a lot of time, hassle, and stress, and I’m sure it will do the same for others!

just installed right rear side today. 4 car jacks, 14 inches off the pavement. nickle is ferromagnetic. check it out online for yourself. whether this is electroplated, i can't say. but it bends super easy, compared to regular FAKE rustproof steel lines. cut off end looks like pure copper alloy. no visible coating. no tubing bender was needed; just my fingers. after flaring, it looks like copper inside and outside. the 2 types of flares [double and inverted] needed; only took one attempt. looked perfect; not lopsided, or thin. this is my forth shadetree mechanic brake line job in 40 years, previously using local crap auto store aftermarket rust proof! 3/16 brake lines. their rustproof exhaust pipes & mufflers have the same claim to fame! 18 months!previously, i used unions & preflared various length lines to get from A to Z the last time. NO FLARING tool last time. not all that easy either [PIA!].this time i used zip ties to lay it out along side the old HEAVILY RUSTED rust proof[ we promise!] lines[ 4 yrs old!]. the exact time it took to do the right rear to the master cylinder is up for grabs. 4 hours total. includes trip to zettlers for misc frame clamp screws , blaring sun/ light rain breaks & i also checked other things while it was off the ground[ 95 cougar]. starter, pulled 3 tires, check exhaust leak from egr tube[went nowhere!], then readjusted a wheel cylinder after replacing one drum shoe adjuster that also rusted out in 4 yrs. the rest of rear brakes were done, while waiting for last adjuster to come in. they kept sending the wrong side! thanks for nothing auto parts store! read the other nickle/copper line reviews for all amazon sellers here. spend the extra money, if your life, other drivers and time spent is worth it! MGD/modelo time can wait! measure thrice, cut once!this is a winner, i hope. no LEAKS at either end,OF COURSE! time will tell, on this old car. be sure and use new frame clamps, [leave the stiff plastic old ones alone!]; to stop vibration noise and later line fatigue. undercoat or silicone seal around the drilled holes first, if you're paranoid. OHIO winter SALT!the included fittings are not my cars thread type. loose or too large.[metric or sae?].I just reused the 2 old fittings. if you need new ones, buy the shortest line at store, cut it & you have 2 fittings for less then the price of buying 2 fittings. store managers hate that!the old trash 16 ft of tubing cracked open, under the stress of folding it up for the trash , right at the heaviest rust spots [not at clamp points either!]. didn't miss the binding arbitration lawsuit with the auto junk store!! DO NOT do this for someone else's car as the really nice guy you are!, if you dont want to go lawsuit broke and feel as if you're being divorced later for 30 years! sell the complete system renewal job[including booster, shoes, drums,discs & ALL cylinders or FORGET IT! now it's beer break time!now for the left rear side next week [thursday]. measure thrice, cut once. take time outs. it helps. my left knee is inflamed 5 hrs later now. WHY!? use kneepads! i usually do. was this insightful for the shadetree guys!

Ohh how many diy brake jobs have ended so poorly and haphazzardly and end up messy to say the least all because of not using a tool or the right correct tool to manipulate that brakeline to the desired ins and outs 90 degrees and 45 degrees and different configurations and meanwhile all this time your faithful belief is to believe that no kinks will occur and all will be almost as factory well good luck with that.Well this new copper based brake line is truly the DIY Godsend for those mechanics and diy guys who dread that dreary day when someone mentions a brake job must be done and cannot wait.Well i bought this type of brake line to purposely test it to check for myself also bought new quality hand brake bending tool for 3/16 line which is for my system. Now i laid out the old brakeline as a template to follow the contours as i form the new brakeline into submission to conform to configuration of old line.Took me awhile to get used to the new brake hand tool for the first time ever using, after working some 2 foot sacrificial pieces as practice dictates i soon took to semi pro status it really is that easy to bend this stuff with the bending tool even with 90 degrees and 45 degrees though the bending tool bites into the tough tubing just a wee bit i believe there is still sufficient wall integrity strength to handle those very very high brake line pressures.For all brake lines you should always double flare the ends, PLEASE do not use compression fittings as many have tried ohh it may seem to work for a while when there not emergency braking needed however were familiar with murphys law and at the right time or should at the wrong time murphys law will strike with vengence and there goes your ferrule ring sliding straight off with great force along with all that precious life saving brake fluid.Yes if you get the ferrule compressed enough on copper tube yes that may hold hundreds of lbs of pressure but thats copper your talking about thats a no no for brakes systems, and as far as steel lines or copper based lines go for brake systems even if you could tighten a ferrule tightly on a steel tube there's no way on earth you can compress that ferrule tight enough to compress that line to where it can hold those types of pressures without popping off some unfortunate day or night losing your system fluid in that circuit, so morel of the story just stay with steel or copper/nickle lines and be absolutely sure to double flare your ends.Now this copper/nickle brake line in question is truly easy as heck to work with and its about time, i even tried bending this stuff bare hand and still got acceptable bends both 45 and 90 with no appreciable kinks to write home about ,its really time to experiment with this to try your hand at this copper/nickle maleable stuff.Yea this is a winner for me, Thanks.