2500W 50A ZVS Induction Heater, 12V‑48V DIY High Frequency Induction Heating Machine Module, Heating PCB Board Module Flyback Driver with Copper Tube, for Iron, Copper (US Plug)

The board smoked, fried, short circuited, and toasted on the first use after arrival 14 seconds after turning Power supply on. Soldering looks sketchy and likely the culprit. Also this unit came with no instructions, so you’ll need to know a bit about how to assemble and operate one of these things before purchasing

The unit works great, i absolutely love it. However, it only ships with a 20 awg plug in wire. Which is drastically under sized for a 120v ~21a input. Minimum 12 awg needed for 120v input.Secondly it does not come with instructions on how to wire it up, and its not very intuitive to build. So some experience or ability to look things up to figure it out is needed. Few modifications though and as mentioned, i absolutely love it.

This product has a lot of potential. It needs some sort of chip that would help regulate/control everything so that it doesn’t completely die on you after only a few melts. I also think the posts should be below the board so that water doesn’t move across the top of the board. It feels like an early stage model of something that could be really great, but as it stands, unless you know how to work these things, save your money. I’ve gone through about 10 of them and finally said to h*ll with it I’m going to get something else. However, if you are going to try one, some helpful things to know (because it doesn’t come with instructions or a support/help service):1) You’re going to need to get a transformer to boost the 110V. 120/130 minimum is needed to melt copper.2) Move the three prong posts to underneath the board. Be careful not to damage the board when removing the solder.3) Electrical tape helps a lot. Cover up the shorts or exposed copper on the board. The board isn’t flimsy, but the seal/coating is extremely thin and will scratch off if you look at it wrong.4) You MUST absolutely MUST wait between 1-5 minutes after plugging in the 48V power supply (sold separately, and not to be confused with the transformer to boost the voltage)* before switching the board on. Otherwise it will die instantly and there’s nothing you can do about it.5) Get insulating fiber to wrap around the copper coil. If you don’t, you’ll sure find out why.6) The water gets very hot very quickly. Once it hits like 100F switch it off and let everything cool down. This happens very quickly. Even with a large metal tank filled with ice.7) Don’t let the crucible touch the insulating fiber - it’ll melt.8) Do not switch the board on unless there is a crucible in the coil. Place the crucible into the copper coil before switching the board on. Switch the board off before removing the crucible. Do not run the board with nothing in the coil. Ever. At all. For any amount of time. Period.9) Use metal hose clamps and don’t over tighten to secure the water hose to the copper coil tubes.10) Be sure the metal clamp that spans the three prongs on each side is as tight as possible. You want as much contact with the copper coil tubes as possible. It must go over the middle one, not between the posts.*There is the ZVS board, the step up from 110V to 120V/130V (even 140V if you want) transformer, as well as the 48V power supply. All three things are required in order for this system to operate. Plug the transformer into the wall outlet, then the 48V power supply into the transformer. The ZVS board connects to the 48V power supply, via two copper wires with a circuit breaker running the red/positive line. After powering on the transformer, plug in the power supply, and it will kick on. You must let the voltage in the 48V power supply stabilize for around 1-5 minutes before switching on the circuit breaker to activate the ZVS board. There shouldn’t be any change in noise coming from the 48V power supply when you switch on the board. If you hear the 48V power supply kind of like rev up or speed up to a faster/higher pitch, you fried the board and you now need to get a new one. You didn’t wait the 1-5 minutes, did you? Don’t get the board wet.Best of luck to anyone who is brave enough to give it a shot. Hopefully this long post helps someone. Knowing all of this before hand would have saved me so much time and headache/heartache. There isn’t much info out there, so keep this info close in hand as a reference. Trust.

Theres not one picture of this thing assembled anywhere on the internet let alone from the seller. Theres also no instructions and the wiring makes no sense.

Its advertised at 50 amps but the terminal clearly displays 25A amps. If you do try the 50 the soder melts and terminal pops off.If you mechanically fasten a make shift terminal it does work at 50 amps, just extra work. Make sure the new terminal are far enough apart to prevent arcs.