POLISI3D All Metal Bimetal Heatbreak Copper Titanium TC4 Throat High Temperature for Creality 3D Printer CR10 V3 S4 S5 Ender 3 V2 Ender3 pro Ender 5 CS3 Hotend Upgrade

I’ve only had this bimetal throat for about 10 days but installation of this throat has COMPLETELY changed the behavior of my printer, but I’m jumping ahead.For those reviewers who said this doesn’t work with a bowden style printer, I’m not sure what to say but it certainly DOES work with a bowden style printer. I have an FLSUN Q5 which is a bowden delta printer and this thing has made all the difference in the world.The original OEM throat that came with my printer has a throughout internal diameter which is equal to the outside diameter of PTFE bowden tubing which means that when the original throat was screwed into the heat block and butted against the print nozzle, it allowed the bowden tubing to go all the way through and also butt up against the print nozzle on the inside, back side of the nozzle. I had even upgraded to Capricorn tubing and fittings but, if I made it past a half dozen medium sized prints (roughly 200-300g of filament) that was a feat within itself. The tubing would continue to clog inside the throat to the point that the pressure would tear the tubing at the teeth inside the bowden connector and basically it just wouldn’t print anymore, or, best case it would continue to print horribly. Seam separation, not enough filament and a host of other issues. I usually kept two Capricorn tubing replacement kits on hand to just replace the tubing and fittings when this would occur. I had never thought about why this would happen so much until I installed the POLISI3D bimetal throat but it makes sense now that I understand the difference in design.With the original throat allowing the bowden tubing to go all the way through, the bowden tubing itself becomes something of an insulator not allowing the set print heat temp to actually reach the filament until the filament reached the nozzle. This being the case, it’s no wonder that the filament continued to clog within the tubing, inside the throat.As you can see in the pictures the design of this bimetal throat is such that the bowden tubing extends only about 4-5mm inside the throat which is 27.5mm in length, where there is then a 1.75mm hole (or 1.76 or so) the diameter of filament, allowing the filament to be subjected to the actual set print temperature within the throat that’s metal, not PTFE tubing, so there are no insulation properties reducing the heat to the filament.Since installing this, filament loads MANY times easier, it unloads MANY times easier and I’ve now made it through about 1,500g (roll and a half) of PLA filament without a single hiccup. I’ve also printed much less but PETG and basically the same results. Easier loading, unloading and flawless prints. I wished I had found this months ago, I would have saved on replacing so many bowden tube and fitting kits.The listing says it’s for Creality printers but as long as your heat block throat is 27.5mm +/- a half mm or so, this will work. You basically want it to be able to butt and tighten against the nozzle, not the heat block itself.Time will tell, as said it’s only been 10 days or so but this $19 dollar upgrade appears that it’s going to save me a world of headaches.PS. I’m assuming that those reviewers who say it constantly clogs probably have a situation where the throat is bottoming out against the heat block and not the nozzle leaving a slight gap between the end of the throat and the back side of the nozzle inside the heat block. No way to know if this is the case but I could imagine this might cause clogging problems.----------------------Nov. 6, 2022It's been three weeks now and I've run through 2 Kilo of PLA and probably 3/4 K of PETG. NOT ONE SINGLE PROBLEM. That would have NEVER happened before. This throat has completely changed my printer for the better!

I thought I was having a heat creep issues along with oozing filament from around the heat block on my Ender 3 Pro. Instead of buying an all metal hotend at a higher price I decided to buy a heat break replacement. With this upgrade I now have an all metal hotend on my Ender 3 and could not be happier. The heat break was packed well in a small plastic box and did not arrive bent. Install was easy and there are plenty of YouTube videos for help. One thing to note is the copper portion did NOT sit flush with the red anodized aluminum body. It sticks out about 4 to 5mm-ish (Will attach a picture at a later date). I was worried this would extend the hotend to far and my BLTouch would no longer work. This turned out to be a non-issue and the BLTouch works perfectly without having to compensate for the offset. I did blindly follow UnaClocker's recommendation of setting the retraction distance to 1mm. I then sliced and printed a Benchy without any major issues. I then printed the "Planar Two To One Way Mechanism" by Mechanistic and the heat break performed beautifully. I have experienced exactly ZERO Clogs and will update this review if/when it happens.Printer Setup: I run the standard white PTFE tubing to my MicroSwiss Direct Drive Extruder and then Capricorn tubing to the heat break. Creality PEI bed, SKR-Mini E3 2.0 board, BLTouch, and Atomic Filament Translucent PLA used in the photos.

I know this is going to sound silly BUT I have got consistently good quality items from this vendor, polisi3d. I am in no way affiliated with them, but, by some accident, I seemed to have gotten several items from them, and all their items are good quality and as described, including this bi-metal heartbreak which is well made and works well. . sadly I have ordered other 3d printer parts from other vendors on amazon, and the quality is variable at best, and many times are not as there described. i still order parts from all vendors on amazon, but, now, when I do NOT want to gamble on if a part will be ok, this vendor is on my list as a go-to vendor. as a vendor my only wish is that items would typically arrive next day with amazon prime. typically it takes 2 days to arrive from this vendor. Totally worth the day wait though.

I bought two of these (one for my Ender 3 and one for my Ender 3 Pro). They both have the same exact issues. They clog with PLA. PETG seems to print "okay", but PLA just gets too sticky inside the all metal.I found some fixes like adding mineral oil inside the metal part to "season" the surface for PLA, and to reduce the retraction to ~2mm (Still clogged on me and was uber stringy).

After weeks of diagnosing the issue, I thought it was the heavily incompatible modifications I'd done to my printer in one go. Turned out the answer was simpler than I ever anticipated. This nozzle failed to seal properly at the upper section of the thread (where the thin wall tube meet), causing a small leak. I kept having inconsistency between layers, sometime no extrusion.Because it had a small leak and I had a black nozzle with black filament with black silicone sock along with a cover, it wasn't visible that I was having leak since it was still able to 'print' I just concluded that this was probably from me heavily modding it in one go and now I my setting is out of whack. Even after many many setting changes, nothing. I spent weeks figuring this out and gave up on it for over 6 months until I had the courage to revisit this printer.I decided to take it apart, and was shock to find that there was a massive pool of plastic underneath the silicone sock. I couldn't even get the block out, or even attempt to clean it. I salvaged my hotend and luckily had some spare part for a quick replacement.No problem since. Please stay away, this product is inferior in quality control.

imprimante 3d Peu imprimer a 300degré C

Ottimo molto meglio dell' originale installato su flsun sr

Have had so many issues with my Ender 5, with the tips of the Capricorn bowden tubes leaking or burning over time, in the past. Issues with heat creep and the plastic melting too early with inconsistent flow, etc. etc.Found this while looking for a new throat tube after I lost yet another one due to a leak. Was a little sceptical but can say after using it for a few months now it is far better then the bowden tube to nozzle set up that is the standard on Ender machines.Now the plastic does not seem to melt until reaching the nozzle, no problems with leaks since the nozzle and the throat line up perfectly.The only reason I have a star reduction is since the filament seems to snag at the entrance of the throat after the bowden tube and it takes quiet a bit of fiddling to get it in sometimes. The holes are not fully aligned properly I guess. But at this point I'm not sure if the bowden tube is even necessary and may be the problem not the throat.

Pour un FLSUN SR. Fonctionne super bien et je pense que j'ai récupéré de la qualité au niveau de l'impression.

Perfecto para poder trabajar con tu impresora 3d con altas temperaturas y no depender de tubos que se queman.