Ford Genuine DS7Z-9E926-D Computer Module ECU,Silver/Black

My 2011 2.5-liter Ford Escape lost half of it's power and went into "limp-home" mode last week, and my yellow "wrench" and "check engine" lights both came on. I plugged my OBD II scanner ($35 from Walmart online) into the CAN bus connector under the driver's side dashboard, and read Fault Code P2112 ("Throttle Actuator", "Control Throttle Body", "Range/Performance"). I called Ford's number dealing with the Throttle Body recall (800-392-3673), and referenced Consumer Satisfaction Program 13N03. My extended service warranty had expired, and the Extended Warranty for defective throttle bodies was only good for one replacement. I already had it replaced two years ago, so I was out of luck. The representative was able to give me the replacement part number: "DS7Z-9E926-D" for a new throttle body, and I read on Amazon that "8E5Z-9E936-A" was the part number for the silicone gasket.I read this was an expensive repair, so I decided to do it myself. I ordered the parts on Amazon--$45 for the throttle body, and $7 for the gasket. (I didn't learn until later that you can also order them online directly from Ford.) I received them today, and while the box had the correct part number on it, the throttle body itself had a different number, "DS7E-9F991-AJ" on it. I called my brother, a service manager at a Ford dealership, and he confirmed what I had read online that Ford parts manufacturers use different part numbers than Ford service departments, so it was probably the right part.I did a Youtube search for "FordTechMakuloco" and found an excellent video on how to replace the throttle body. He shows you exactly how to do it. I also made the checklist below to use while replacing it.I replaced the throttle body and silicone gasket without a hitch--I took my time and it took me less than an hour. I started the car and idled it for 20 minutes, then drove it a bit. The engine seems to run much smoother than ever, and it seems to run a bit quieter, too. I'm very satisfied with the way this all turned out. Kudos to Ford for alleviating a difficult situation by making these replacement throttle bodies available at such a reasonable price. Also, for a design that makes it so (relatively) easy and straight-forward to replace.Here is my procedure:0. Remove key from ignition.1. Disconnect the NEGATIVE battery cable so the system can re-learn the new throttle body. Put a rag over the NEGATIVE battery terminal to keep the negative battery cable (or anything else) from touching it. If you have an older model Escape, you may even want to remove the battery to give better, straight-shot access to the throttle body.2. Disconnect PCV vent hose. Squeeze in on the light gray release catches and just pull it off.3. Unscrew (but don't remove) the hose clamps on both ends of the air hose that the PCV vent hose plugs into. Remove the air hose from the throttle body and air filter box and set it aside.4. Remove the throttle body's electrical connector. Pull the red locking tab back (about 1/2"), then press in on the side lever of the connector housing (located immediately under where the head of the red tab was) to release the locking ramp. You can see how this connector works by examining the Mass Airflow Sensor's connector, located on the air filter box side of the air hose. It has the same type of connector. Push IN on the connector, then pull the connector connector all the way out.5. Remove the four bolts holding the throttle body in place, removing the lower two bolts first. Put them out of the way so there's no chance of dropping them down the air intake. Remove the throttle body.6. Use a clean rag to clean the sealing surface and inside the intake. Replace the silicone sealing gasket.7. Bolt on the new throttle body, in a criss-cross pattern. Torque them down in a criss-cross pattern to 89 inch-pounds (7 foot-pounds) of torque.8. Push the connector on until it snaps into place, then push in the red locking tab to lock it in place. Make sure the connector is seated all the way, or else you won't be able to push in the red locking tab (without breaking it).9. Replace the air hose, and tighten the two hose clamps.10.Re-attach the PCV vent hose until it clicks. Give it a little tug to make sure it's seated properly.11. Reset the memory on the PCM (Powerplant Control Module). (The NEGATIVE battery cable should already be pulled from the battery.) To reset the PCM memory, you need to short the power supply capacitors in this module. Use a small gauge (low current) jumper wire with alligator clips on both ends to short the NEGATIVE battery CABLE (which is detached from the battery!) to the positive cable (which is still attached to the positive battery terminal). This shorts the PCM capacitors to the POSITIVE battery terminal's voltage. Do NOT SHORT TO THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL! Leave this jumper on for 5 to 10 minutes to completely discharge the PCM capacitors.Again--jumper the negative battery CABLE to the positive battery CABLE. The positive battery cable can still be connected to the positive battery terminal.12. Re-learn new idle values: Disconnect the small jumper wire, and put the negative battery cable back on. Turn the ignition key on (don't try to start it yet) until the "check engine" and "battery" lights come on, and wait 10 seconds for the PCM to learn the new "stop values" for the throttle plate in the new throttle body.13. Make sure all accessories are turned off (i.e. air conditioning, headlights, radio). Start the car, and let it idle for 15 minutes. This lets the PCM "re-learn" the optimum throttle plate angle for idle RPMs as the engine warms up.14. Drive it to learn the new driving settings. Go through light acceleration for all 5 gears. Drive it normally--don't drive too soft, don't drive too hard. Don't do any aggressive driving for the next few days, until it learns the new transmission settings.

I purchased a different throttle body from a non-reputable dealer on Amazon before I purchased this one. That part was labeled exactly right DS7Z-9E926-D and advertised as a genuine part but it was not genuine at all. Within months that throttle body stopped working properly and diagnosing the issue was rather challenging. Don't make the mistake I made and cheap out on other sellers. In the long-run has this has cost me so much time and money (buying two of the same part). Be sure to check for FoMoCo branding on the part like in the image I attached.For those trying to figure out whether or not this will fix their issues, here are the issue symptoms I was having:- Hesistation (step on the gas, slow response)- Loss of power at random moments (especially on the freeway letting go of accelerator and press on the accelerator again seemed to get the throttle body stuck for about 30 seconds until the ECU reset)- Rough shaking idling at random moments- Rough shifting- Fluctuation in RPM when idling and sudden drops of RPM- Misfiring (only for short amounts of time)- Strong fuel smell from headers when throttle body was off (when I opened up the throttle body I could smell excess gas just waiting for the proper air mixture to burn)- No diagnostic codesAlthough it wasn't obvious at first I was fairly confident the issues were from the throttle body. The issues would happen at completely random moments and would last for about 30 seconds then the throttle body would seemingly reset and go back to normal. The entire time I was thinking I was having serious transmission issues.This job is a walk in the park to do, seriously do it yourself. I had it swapped in 5 mins all you need an 8 mm socket. 5 stars for an affordable part and easy fix, no major issues.

Car exhibited many problems. At idle the RPM would vary or sometimes while driving it would go into limp home mode. Installed this, followed instructions found online for the computer to relearn. Now the engine acts like new.

Justo como lo esperaba

These throttle bodies are known to be a problem on numerous Ford platforms across many years and Ford did a recall on these because they were a known fail point. Unfortunately Ford did not recall this on the Fusion Hybrid even though it is the exact same part number for the hundreds of thousands recalled, the speculation being that they exempted the Fusion Hybrid due to it's limited production numbers.What happens is the electronics for the throttle body, contained under the black plastic cover fail over time due to the constant heat soak and it will cause the ECM to put the car into limp mode and display the 'wrench' light on the dash. There will be no code or check engine light, just limp mode. I did remove the original unit (very easy to do) and cleaned it, especially the underside of the throttle plate which was coated in a hard black residue, but it did not matter. Replace yours if it goes into limp mode and you have to pull over and restart it to get it to go over 40 mph and you have a wrench light and no CEL-it is only about $70 total you will need to get the O-ring which is not included (dumb). I took one star off for not including the O-ring.

Coincide con el modelo

Original afford for autobody worked perfect highly recommend

Work great

Quedó perfectamente en mi ford fusion SE 2010 2.5, creía que el mío no servía porque me empezó a fallar la aceleración y se me prendió la llave inglesa en el tablero de instrumentos y al momento de escanear me marcaba varios códigos relacionados al cuerpo de aceleración, investigué en Internet y supuestamente muchos de los ford fusion de ese año salieron defectuosos de esa pieza, fue por eso que yo encargué la refacción nueva.Al momento de ponerla en mi carro, la falla no se solucionó, resulta que buscándole y buscándole, al final me di cuenta que estaba flojo el arnés de la caja de fusibles por eso no funcionaba el cuerpo de aceleración.Conecté bien el arnés, dejé instalada el nuevo cuerpo y el carro anda funcionando perfectamente.

fix my 3 litre Ford Fusion 2010 it's easy to put on and it works brilliant