FJC (45268) Replacement Booster Cable with 800 Amp Rating Clamp Set

What i like best,Price800 amp ratingStrong springCopper and copper clad teethBuilt in wire clamp and copper clad screw.What I dislike,Cheesy rubber cover that will tearHandle where lug attaches too small for fatter cable lugsI am tired of those cheesy, flimsy, off shore made, sparrow fart jumper cables. I made my own. I bought 150 feet of 2/0 marine grade, tinned, welding cable. Then i bought three sets 800 amp Anderson winch connectors, and two sets of these clamps. I ran two of the 2/0 cables run in 3/4 slip loom to prevent chafing under my truck and securely fastened to the batteries to a spot below both the front and rear bumpers. Then I fabricated mounts to fasten both winch connectors to a convenient spot under each bumper but within easy reach. I then made up two cable jumper sets using crimped solid and tinned lugs to fasten to these handles. The handles are a little narrow for 2/0 but I took care of that by grinding down the lugs to fit in the handle. The other ends got the winch connector rated at I now have two jumper sets, one set is 35 feet and one is 15 feet. They can be joined together making a regular jumper cable set 50 feet long and two jumpers that can attached to either end of my winch connectors below the bumpers of my tow truck. One at 15 feet one at 35 feet. I can’t always pull as close so the need for a fifty foot jumper and from either end of the truck. These are used probably 3-5 times a day. So far they have worked really well with the exception of the cheesy rubber covers.For me to buy a ready made set of 2/0 jumpers will cost about 1500 dollars for a 20 foot set that attach to my truck not including the cables and winch connectors under the truck. I made these myself in an afternoon for about 500$ And I have two sets. I just have to be careful; everyone who sees my set up wants my cables big time. They can start a semi at fifty feet long. The alternator on my rig is set at 15 volts to help crank over those larger diesel motors. I also ended up covering the cables with a heavy scuff proof sheath to prevent damage and they are really heavy. They work as hard as I do.

I own a set of Hopkins BC0840PDQ "Juice" medium duty jumper cables. I've never really liked the "Cinch-Lock" clamps that came with my jumper cables but I tolerated them. After a few years, the original clamps' insulating paint was flaking off. I could not rely on my jumper cables.I wanted to salvage the 6-gauge jumper cables as the cable itself is in great condition. So after comparing several replacement clamps, I finally settled on these. I got two pairs for each end of my jumper cables.Each clamp is copper-coated, has two-piece flexible rubber boots to insulate them, tough teeth, firm spring grip, and has an internal brass crimp sleeve with two pairs of "wings" for your cable secured with a short brass bolt and nut.For my install, I removed the half of the clamp insulating boot and removed the brass crimp sleeve. After removing all the sleeves, I stripped off about 7/8" of insulator off my cables. I used ordinary pliers to fold closed one side of the wings on the crimp sleeve, slid the copper wire inside, used large crimp/wire cutter tool to crimp the wings to the wire, folded the opposite set of wings over with pliers, and then crimped everything together. I made sure it was secure. I could definitely not pull off the sleeve from the copper wire.Although my crimping was secure, I wanted to ensure a more durable and lasting electrical connection. So I dabbed a bit of flux compound on the crimped wings of the sleeve and copper wire, turned on my 90 watt soldering iron, and used standard 40/60 rosin-core solder to bind the copper wire and sleeve even further together. Now, there was no way I could get the sleeve off in one piece even if I wanted to. Perfect!Now, I just slid the boot through the sleeve and cable, bolted on the sleeve to my new clamp, slid the insulating boot back up from the cable back onto the clamp. Done!My 6-gauge stranded cable is more than enough for most cars and trucks is probably the minimum thickness for these clamps. I would not use thinner cable than 6-gauge. The crimp sleeves can definitely hold thicker copper wire than 6-gauge.I finally have jumper cables to be proud of. I recommend these great clamps to anyone with medium to heavy duty copper jumper cables they wish to salvage.

Got these after I decided to make a set of jumpers for my F250 with a 6.0l Powerstroke. After trying to jumpstart a smaller car with very cheap jumper cables (10 or 12 gauge), and finding that I had to wait 15 minutes, I got worried and wanted something that would allow me to start the truck if I ever had a bad battery. Made a set of jumpers using these on one end, 15 feet of 1/0 copper cable, and an SB175 Anderson connector on the other (same as the warn connectors for winches). As per other reviews, I added two 1" wide wire straps between the sides of the clamp to prevent the spring from having to carry current. Construction seems solid, one of the clamps came slightly bent, but not too big a deal to straighten out. About a week after making the cables, I jump started a Honda Odyssey van which had a bad battery after another truck tried for 20 minutes to help. The owners were skeptical after the last one didn't work, but let me try anyways. Inrush current was 613 amps, which dropped to about 260 before the motor started. The minivan started on the first attempt, took about a second of cranking. Inspection of the clamps did not reveal any heat damage, and they still look brand new. I have no doubt they could carry more current, they opened plenty wide enough to clamp over terminals, stiff but not too difficult to open, and feel generally to be something that will last. Very happy with the purchase.

Using them weekly during winter. Boosting tractors and snow groomers constantly with no problem. Lots of power transfer.

heavy duty

Exactly what I was looking for.

As advertised

works well clamps are well made and clamp on well