Lorenzetti Advanced Tankless Water Heater

Lo que esperaba

don't recommended. My shower never works. It supposed that it must to be easy installed, but in fact, who does have a connection over the bathroom shower? well, the idea is good, but I don't know why does it never work? I think that is better buy a real water heater, you know, that with the water tank. Don't be dumb as I was, "the cheaper stuffs, are expensive all time"

D.O.A.good cold water WHERES THE HOT WATER not in a 110v unit,you will get a cool looking showerhead however with cold 110v unit you get the cold shower every time...JUNK

Great product. Millions sold worldwide - and are NOT approved in NA as grounding regulations are different. If you think of it, your hot water tank is no different than these: the wiring connects to your heating elemnets which are in direct contact with the water! I brought a 220-volt, 3-temp 4500 watt home for $30 from Kenya and installed in my shower (I am an electrician) with a GFCI breaker as a precaution - ouch at $230 CDN! The breaker has never tripped so appears to be a waste of money, but I didn't think it would look too good if I got electrocuted by my own work. Flow is low to get hot on the high setting, so there is some adjustment required. Cut my shower usage down from 33 litres to 9 litres! No keeping my 30 gallon tank hot all day anymore for one 10 minute shower! Awesome! I got a tankless sink heater too and plumbed it into my hot water line, so I have hot water everywhere in the house for the same cost of the electric tank for a fraction of the operating cost. I'm going to upgrade to a 220-volt one of these simply to get one with the head further away from the wall - I've been standing on the tub drain to get wet : ) Wire size is no problem. I wired my connection to a junction box on the back side of the wall of my shower which happened to be beside my sink, so there are no connections on the shower side.

This item comes wired for either 110 or 220v. 110v may seem handy, but it means you need to carry a lot of amps to get 5500watts. (5500/110=50amps) The result is that you need a heavy gauge wire and a big breaker to handle the circuit - new wiring I'm sure. So if you've got to pull a new cable, then you might just as well make it 220v and run thinner, cheaper, cable from the breaker box.That said, everything else about the product is excellent. Works well, saves a ton of money over storing hot water all day for a shower, and is pretty easy to install. Form a style standpoint, it *looks nice*, which is more than can be said for most. Once installed, no one would know its hiding a water eater inside.Besides saving money, its no small luxury to be able to take as many long hot showers as you want. Or maybe you just need to boost the water temp at a distant bath.One other point to be made is that the MAX rating is 5500 watts. You could limit it to 3500 watts and cut down the wire and breaker size. That would also limit the flow rate of water you can heat, but lots of places are installing low-flow shower heads anyway. In either case, keep in mind that its not going to draw the max current all the time. It goes on and off rapidly to maintain a set temperature. Its only going to draw 50 amps if the flow rate and water temperature you set are both quite high - though it also depends on the temperature of the water coming in.

I haven't bought one of these units yet, but I have had the opportunity to use one now for about a week. Folks, they work. The apartment I am staying in while in Brazil has one in the shower. I assume it is a 220 VAC model, and the water heats nearly instantly. Temperature is regulated by the water flow that you adjust. The medium setting didn't flip my skirt, as I like hot showers, but the high setting was great. Normally I like a high water flow, but had to adjust it down in order to get the heat I wanted. You have to hunt around to find them in the states, and sue to the current requirements, you would have to go with the 220 VAC model, and I would certainly recommend some sort of fault interrupter circuit as well. I intend to install one in my half bath shower and see how it goes. It will require the installation of a new 220 circuit, but I think in the long run, it will save on keeping an 80 gal water heater tank at temperature. Do be advised, that the the unit I am referring to is the larger 35kw/55kw round head.

I have posted this on another Lorenzetti tankless heater that I actually reviewed in a store. While trying to convert my RV from old tank-style to tankless water heater, I have been reviewing them quite a bit.For the other Lorenzetti heater, it says it requires a 50-amp 110v AC circuit. As I posted on that one, that amount of amperage is in excess of the U.S. NEC design for household wiring. You can't even find a standard single pole circuit breaker that big anymore. Even if you did, since most homes are wired with 12-awg wiring, your wiring in your walls would turn into a giant heater element, effectively burning your house down - rather quickly.In response, Lorenzetti makes this interesting self-contained (AC Power in the shower with you) device that requires even 10-more amps than their on-the-wall model. GEESH! You are talking using more power than a welder, in the shower with you...and your water is passing through it, right over your head, all while you are violating National electric codes. Nice.As a 220-volt device, it would draw a lot of amps...as much as your big kitchen oven. As a 110-v device, it draws twice as many amps...on a wiring system no-where near big enough. This is devastation looking for a place to occur. I really can't believe anyone would take the liability to sell these in the U.S...but apparently, they are. Don't buy one, before you talk to your locally licensed electrician...please.

nothing but problems with my lz-750bp. \i have fixed it 6 times and even now more problems.