TUXING 4500Psi Pcp Air Compressor,Auto Stop and Auto Purge,Double Cylinder High Pressure Air Compressor for PCP Rifle Tank Gas Scuba Filling 110V TXED013

Shipping was faster than what the estimated was, by several days. That was good as I had nearly exhausted both my CF tanks. Packaging was very secure , the weight was almost 72 pounds and packaging was fully intact with some minor dings to box. Unpacked and everything was as it should have been except it’s shipped with the fill line attached and it was nearly kinked 2” from its connection point. I still gave this thing 5 stars because this is the first compressor I’ve gotten that worked more than 4 or 5 times before it failed. I didn’t need the cheap plastic line anyway so I removed it, it did have a quality 8 mm quick connect though. Set everything up , checked all connections and everything was good and tight. Fixed some cooling water and ran compressor allowing air to just blow out of the fill line not connected to a tank or rifle for the “around 5 minutes” break in period and allow unit to cool completely. I forgot to mention they recommend Royal purple compressor oil which I got a quart of for 25 dollars , you only need half , save other half as you change oil first time after the first 25 hours of use. Also remove oil fill cap and install breather cap they send with unit. Don’t overfill, it’s easy to do. If you do just loosen and remove oil drain bolt and let the excess dribble out in to a small cup or something. The small built in oil/water separator will exhaust some water and oil when you bleed fill line , it’s normal. Once break in and adjusting oil level was done I connected the filter provided and connected my 9 liter cf tank that was depleted to 3000psi , they reccomend not to fill anything bigger than 6.8 liters , but that is zero to 4500 psi, I was only topping off and the unit did it faster than I expected about 17 minutes give or take a couple. Temp stayed well below max which reminds me, the temp gauge takes 2 hearing aid type batteries. They installed two but they were dead when the unit arrived , I put in two new ones and this works fine. For the first use I used my laser thermometer. I have since filled my rifle which has .6 liters of storage space from zero in less than 5 minutes 2 or 3 times and topped off my 4.7 liter cf tank from 2500 to 4300. Temp stayed well below max. I forgot to time it. This unit is faster to fill with than a yong heng around 30% faster based on my limited experience with a yong heng. Electric motor is larger than YH units, hence the quicker pumping most likely. The instructions say run no more than 1 hour continuous.

This is used for supplying air to PCP airguns. It does NOT have auto-shutoff, being the bottom model in the line, so requires constant monitoring of the pressure gauge. Once you get up around 300 bar, you have to shut it down quick or the burst disk pops. It is water-cooled. The method is to use a user supplied water container, drop a pump in with inlet-outlet hoses and run the water through both cylinders. A small bucket works. The chosen pump is a fully submersible one like is used for small table-top fountains and the like. Cheap. Out of the box, mine didn't work, motor was seized solid. Works are potted in epoxy, probably the armature as well in this one. I ordered one with a similar size from Amazon, it works. They run directly from 120V, no wall box, all connections are potted. Sling it in the bottom of the bucket, suction cups hold it there. The compressor is shipped directly from China, took several weeks. Weight is around 60 lbs, so not exactly a sling it around portable. Box is very heavy, bits are well packed inside. Still had some scars and tears outside from its travels, innards were in good shape. Did not want to mess around getting some kind of response from the vendor for the dead pump, got a spare in 2 days from Amazon and it worked. The compressor has a 2 prong always-on outlet for the pump on the shroud next to the compressor on-off rocker switch.Compressor is different from the cheapies, has low pressure and high pressure cylinders in a V, the direct-fill cheapies have low pressure below the high pressure pressure cylinder, both pistons on the same conn rod. Plus water-cooling means this one can fill the larger bottles. I think this is the cheapest water-cooled compressor. Seems to be well made, the same innards seem to be used for the next higher models of compressor. Top one has auto-shutoff and auto bleed. Plus a fancier mount. Ebay seems to have just about any spares needed for a Tuxing compressor, they also have an online store.Pressure gauge on the compressor is liquid filled, compressor vibrates a bunch, so needed. Below that is the burst disk and below that is the outlet hose. Bottom of the block has the bleed screw and it bleeds through the brass burst disk bolt. Included are outlet hose, a set of gaskets and spare burst disks. Amazon also has Tuxing burst disks, slightly smaller than the other makes. I managed to pop one on the first pressure test, a QD plug for the outlet hose is included. Ran past 300 bar in a matter of seconds. I then blew another one pumping up the 6.8L tank I bought. Took about 45 minutes to get to 200 bar, then about 1/2 hour from 200-300 bar the next day. Disk went when it just got a bit above 300 bar. Head temperature was getting to 180 F when I turned it off at 200 bar. I now have more spare disks. When pumping directly, the Diana Bandit took a matter of seconds to reach 200 bar, its max. The Air Venturi Avenger was more like 6-7 minutes to get to 300 bar from about 150. Head temp barely moved for either. Very nice using the tank to refill the Avenger, have done 5-6 refills, needle on the tank is barely off the top mark.You will need to buy some oil before using, they specified regular car oil. I used Mobil 1. A matter of ounces to get it to the desired level, there's an eye on the side of the crankcase with a red dot. Use a spout or funnel to avoid a mess. Keep a rag handy, there's some oil mist that gets on the crankcase from the crankcase vent plug.Main complaint besides the dead cooling pump is no info on how to change the head thermometer's battery. Mine gives all the signs of being about dead. There doesn't seem to be any way to pop the module out of the motor shroud to find a battery cover. The instructions are pretty complete as to setting it up, do NOT ignore the section about putting oil in.If you can get the next model up with auto-shutoff for desired pressure, might save some popped disks. Very loud when one goes.

Front cover leaking oil. Multiple discussions and 2 replacement covers design flaw is still there. Made my own seal. Told them to forget the warranty and refund half the money, and they did. Coolant hoses zip tied to whatever is near, guaranteed to wear through from vibration (had to fix that)_. Input coolant hose kinked to begin with, moved coolant tank to allow proper flow.Next issue was the O-ring on one of the air filters blew. Why it's a static o-ring? Well it wasn't properly assembled or lubricated. Rebuilt the air filter. Next blew up the breather vent from the lubricating oil. Thought it was vibration and defective so replaced that. Nope it's actually a gasket leak that is allowing compressed air into the oil and overpressurizing the motor housing. Figured this out after it blew the lid off the water coolant tank. Disassembled the final stage cylinder to find out why I was getting high pressure air in the coolant system. There were only tiny shred of orings on the 4 bolts that hold it in place. The gasket is soaked in oil. Usually you would only expect bad assembly and sharp edges but no, here we also have the terrible design. Final tally 7l tank filled from 2000 psi to 4500 psi a total of 5 times over the course of 10 months. That's all I did with it. Now it's not worth my time to rebuild.