KVAR Energy Saving Controller SAVE 8% to 10% PER MONTH ON YOUR ELECTRIC BILL ! For Your Home !

Yes you will get 8-10% or more saving if KVAR is used in a situation with a lot motorized equipment such as appliances, air conditioners, pumps, etc. It will not save you any money with things like electric heat, light bulbs, tvs, etc (things that don't have a motor), however, it makes a great surge suppressor if nothing else and can save your electric equipment if hooked up to the first fuse in your fuse box if your house or business gets hit by lightening.

Not sure if it lives up to specs

Works best when installed in power system using large electric motors. Not sure there would be much of a savings if you don't run electric motors for your business.

I have only seen about 13% savings on the house I put this one.It did however help more so with the dimming of the lights and also made the well water come with a better level of pressure. So in this way it works very well.

i waited a year to see the results and discovered that the electricity usage was higher that the previous. DO NOT RECOMMEND...

very good

Wow, there are lots of reviewers that seem to miss the point. The KVAR (Kilo Volt Reactive Unit..s) IS nothing more than 2 capacitors inside the unit (box). What is a capacitor ? - "A capacitor is a passive device that stores energy in its electric field and returns energy to the circuit whenever required.""A Capacitor is equivalent to an Open-Circuit to Direct Current, R = ∞, because once the Charging Phase has finished, no more Current flows through it."In industrial settings, with proper measuring devices, these units have consistently proved themselves to save power; enough to justify the cost of measuring, purchasing, and installing the device(s).In the home, the energy savings may not be as much, BUT here's the real point:Read that capacitor definition carefully. It .."stores energy.." and ..."returns energy to the circuit whenever required"...It takes a charge, then..."once the Charging Phase has finished, no more Current flows through it."...Mmmm.So, if you have one of these units wired into your house after the meter (can't touch that, it belongs to the power company) but before the electric panel, it will instantly build up a charge (electricity) as the power comes into it, and will then only disperse a charge (electricity) when some electrical device with a coil in it (fridge, dishwasher, garbage disposal unit, clothes washing machine and dryer, furnace, thermo pump, air conditioner, pool pump, garage door opener, water pump, etc...) asks for it (starts up and runs).This device being (typically) pretty far away from these electrical devices, will not save a whole lot of electricity. KVAR's claim of 6% to 10% is exactly right. All "Energy Star" devices have their own capacitors and, for the most part, do the job as well as possible. Older electrical machines that are not "Energy Star" qualified, typically do not have any capacitors which do both save some energy and keep the motors running cooler (read: last longer).Here's what everyone misses - "Electromagnetic Hypersensitivity (EHS), also known as electromagnetic sensitivity and electrohypersensitivity, occurs when the amount of EMF radiation exceeds the body’s ability to deal with it. Everyone has an imaginary (but very real) ‘lifetime radiation cup’. The body can only tolerate ‘that amount’ of electromagnetic radiation.""The body was not designed to thrive in the constant presence of electric, magnetic, wireless/rf or ionizing radiation as many of us are dong today. EMF protection is a necessity! "You have 60-80 amp service running into your house. It goes into your electrical panel, through the panel and, depending on the size of the circuit breaker for an individual room, 15 or 20 or 30 amps of electricity is running through the electrical wires (especially in ones that are not enclosed in metal conduit - and how often do you see a builder going that far these days) all around the walls of your home. That creates lots of EMF fields in every room ! With a capacitor box, such as the KVAR unit, there should be no, or minimal current running through your walls - NO EMF's - unless some device in that room is requesting power. AND, if that electrical device only needs 1 or 2 amps of power (WATTS x AMPS = VOLTS), that's all the capacitors are letting through. AND all of that is being used by the electrical device calling for the power = no extra amps (EMF's) running through your child's room, or your room.Now read the paragraph above and go to your web browser and look up how humans are being sickened by EMF's, and other radiation all around us. The go ask a brain surgeon what he or she thinks about EMF's and our brains/bodies/children.Now what is a device like this worth ?

These do not work and are a scam on people who want to lower energy bills. Most all hard start electric motors have a capacitor already inline.Source: NIST Team Demystifies Utility of Power Factor Correction DevicesIf you've seen an Internet ad for capacitor-type power factor correction devices, you might be led to believe that using one can save you money on your residential electricity bill. However, a team including specialists at the National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST) have recently explained* why the devices actually provide no savings by discussing the underlying physics.The devices—sometimes referred to as Amp Reduction Units or KVARs**—are touted as good investments because they reduce the amount of current drawn from power lines while simultaneously providing the necessary amount of current to appliances inside the house. Though engineers elsewhere have discredited the devices for use in typical residences already, NIST physicist Martin Misakian and two of his colleagues decided to write a brief primer describing the devices' inner workings for readers who are not power engineers, but who still have some technical background.“One of the important functions of our primer is to remove the mystery of how current from the power line can decrease while at the same time current going to an appliance remains the same,” says Misakian. The nine-page Technical Note explains this result in terms that might interest readers with knowledge of college-level physical sciences. It shows that although the devices can indeed reduce current flow from the power line, it is not just the current flowing from the power line that determines your electric bill, but the product of the power factor and the current. Though current decreases with a power factor correction device, the power factor increases correspondingly, meaning the product of the two remains the same—with or without the device. Because a residential electric bill is proportional to this product, the cost remains unchanged.Power factor correction devices have some use, though.The authors point out that while they will not reduce the average homeowner's bill, they may benefit the environment. When electricity travels from a local transformer to a residence, some power is lost due to electrical resistance. But because a utility would need to supply less current to a residence that employs a power factor correction device, these losses would decrease—thus potentially reducing the amount of greenhouse gases a fossil fuel-burning utility would emit. But while the primer does provide a rough calculation of a utility's savings by considering the operation of a residential air conditioner, Misakian says readers must investigate the details of these options for themselves.“If homeowners wanted to help reduce the amount of carbon dioxide produced, they could install a device,” Misakian says, “but they would also have to consider the greenhouse gases generated during the fabrication of the device itself.”Do Power Factor Correction Devices Save Energy?Source: Energy Vanguard - Allison Bailes 7-14-2010One of these products is a power factor correction device and can be seen here. This product claims:Residential customers throughout North America could see a realized savings of 8% – 10% typically and as much as 25% on their electrical usage (and thus power bills).However, I’m not buying it. There are two great resources on-line that address this same issue. One is Energy Star (page no longer available) and the other is a blogger I’ve been reading for 4 years and has a great section on electricity, Michael Bluejay. Both of these resources say power factor correction really won't help on your residential bill. It can make a difference for certain industrial users who may be billed by the Utility for peak demand, but this is another story (and it is addressed in the Bluejay article).To go a little deeper, the formula for Power Factor (PF) is below:PF = Real Power (Watts) ÷ Apparent Power (VA)- or -Watts = PF*Amps*Voltage = PF * Apparent PowerThe power factor correction devices are said to improve the second half of the above equation, the Apparent Power. However you don’t pay your utility for Apparent Power. You pay them for Real Power (Watts). Apparent Power is defined as the total power in an AC circuit, both dissipated AND returned! (Scroll to the bottom of this link to view the power triangle and description of Apparent, Real and Reactive power). This means that if you currently have a poor power factor, your Apparent Power is higher, but all this means is that you are returning more unused electrons to the utility! But since they only charge you for used electrons (dissipated electrons = Real Power = Watts) you don’t give a hoot about your Apparent Power!Let’s take an example of 2 completely identical motors sitting side by side. Both of these motors have the exact same efficiency and operate at 1.2 kW. The first motor doesn’t have a power correcting device. The second motors does have PF correcting device.• Motor 1: 1.2 kW motor, connected to a 120 V circuit, PF = .7• Motor 2: 1.2 kW motor, connected to a 120 V circuit, PF = .999 (this has the Power Factor correction device, thus the excellent PF!)Using the equation above we can show the amps (current) that will be dissipated in motor 1:1.2 kW = .7 *120V * A → A= 14.29And we can do the same thing for motor 2:1.2 kW = .999*120V*A → A=10.01But this doesn’t mean you’ll pay less to the utility! All this shows as that your power factor increases (gets better) your amperage decreases, but the Real Power (Watts = what the utility charges you) stays the same! Therefore no matter your power factor, in residential settings the utility is still going to show that you took the same amount of Real Power off of the power lines, so that is what you pay.