Flylink PAL/NTSC SCART + HDMI to HDMI Video Converter Box 1080P Upscaler with 3.5mm and Coaxial Audio Output for Game Consoles, DVD, STB

just bought this to connect my older consoles to my projector , it works with a hdmi out, and runs a variety of resolutions and refreshes. i have so far tested the sega saturn and super nintendo both using the rgb scart. both picture and sound are good clean pictures free from any artifacts and the sound is also handled very well.. the setup is quite easy, attach the scart input or hdmi. press the source button once and it will toggle between the 2 input you have attached. there is a small display overlayed on the image for about ten seconds telling you what resolution you are displaying and if you are not getting a signal at all it states "no signal"overall very happy with it, and its much cheaper than the identical one at maplin which was priced at 50 quid!

I bought this hoping to improve on the picture quality provided by the Neotek Scart to HDMI converter box that I bought previously. It did work but the picture quality wasn't very good, usually very dark and with several VHS tapes I tried, there were lines of red and green across the picture. But at least the Neotek worked unlike other converter boxes although those weren't using a Scart connection. Scart to HDMI is the only way I've found that works with an LG TV and a video recorder. By the way, I've seen articles recommending the Neotek box but it's just not that good in my experience.Interestingly, the Flylink box is quite a bit bigger and heavier than the Neotek box. At first, I got the dreaded NO SIGNAL message and thought there was something wrong with the box. Then I realised I'd used the power cable for the Neotek box with the Flylink box. I changed the cable and hey presto! It worked and provided a huge improvement in picture quality. Every VHS tape I've tried has been fine. I can definitely recommend this if you want to use a Scart connection between your HD TV and a video recorder/player.

It works really well. Two small gripes:1) The on screen display stays on screen for around 20 seconds. I wouldn't mind for watching only but I'm recording VHS to HDMI and so this is at the start of each recording. I have kept the VCR on pause until it disappears and then started the recording but if there is a gap of white noise between programmes (which is common on my VHS tapes) it appears once again when the signal comes back - and then stays for 20 seconds again. Anyone know if there's a way to get rid of this showing?2) For HDMI through I have a 1x4 splitter from my Sky box - this device is on output 2. If the power is removed from this device it kills the signal going into the splitter so all outputs are lost. Not a huge issue but if this fails for any reason I lose the HDMI signal across the house. Not sure why it does this!

I purchased a similar product that looked the same but the way it handled the video was different. THIS converter also takes in and converts RGB signals. Most will only convert composite to HDMI. Composite to HDMI will give you a nasty diffuse mess of a picture. RGB separates the colours and sync. Although not perfect, the output is so much better. Colours are more vivid without being blown out. Detail on textures is more noticeable, and fizzing within images is a whole lot lower.I have both consoles and arcade equipment. All work wonderfully. Especially the TAITO F3 system which is a nightmare to get syncing correctly.

It worked perfectly for about 10 seconds - crisp picture and sound from a SCART input. However after that initial period the colour output seemed to shift and colours began to bleed into each other. The sound was also very noisy and corrupted.At first I thought it might have been the Atari ST I had plugged into it but even with the SCART lead disconnected from the Atari side, the "No Signal" banner also showed the same colour bleed. Now it's completely unusable.Perhaps I just had a fragile/defective unit? Its a shame because when it was working correctly it was amazing.Returned.