ChlorMaker IL Hot Tub and Spa Inline Saltwater System Chlorine Generator, Chlorinator is installed in with the existing plumbing

This unit doesn't look like the most professional product I've ever seen, but given the ease with which it operates and the time it's already saved me in maintaining the chlorine levels in my hot tub, I really couldn't care less. All in all, this is an awesome system at a great price. I've only had it installed for about a month now, so I can't speak to the longevity of the unit, but so far, it's worked outrageously well. In fact, my only regret is that I didn't purchase one of these years ago as it probably would have saved me going through a heater (I'm really bad about staying on top of my chemicals) if I had. Do yourself a favor and buy it now.

After trying several different vendor solutions involving different sanitizers, I started researching the ChlorMaker. Like many spa owners, I have been frustrated with the amount of maintenance required to keep a spa clean. Also, I have become very sensitized to sanitizers and really can’t stand the smell of them including chlorine. What makes the ChlorMaker unique is that the chlorine is generated from the salt in the water via electrolysis and the chlorine levels can be kept low. I’ve had this system up and running for just a couple of weeks at this point and so far so good. My impression of the quality of the materials is… Well, it could be better (four stars), but there are some things that can be done to compensate. Here are some of the issues that I had concerns about when starting this project:Salt: Salt needs to be added to the water so enable the electrolysis. For my 250 gallon spa, 6 cups of coarse pool salt is all it takes. You can’t even taste that in the water. It’s not even close to what you would encounter in a pool that uses salt as the sanitizer.Circulation Pump: You need to have a circulation pump that is always on. I had an issue with the installation in this regard because my spa has a summer mode option for temperature control. Here in Texas, you don’t need to leave the heater on in the summer and often I need to open the spa at night to cool down the water below 102 degrees. After the initial installation with the spa in summer mode, no chorine was in the water. It turns out that my circ pump is “off” in summer mode, so I needed to raise the temperature out of summer mode and the pump turned on. Once pump was running, chlorine started to appear in the spa.I needed to splice some additional wire into the power line to reach my 110 volt power source (voids warranty). They only provide 10’ of wire from the power adapter to the control box. I have a GFI power source about 15’ from my spa, and I wasn’t about to install yet another GFI. You can open the control box, disconnect wires from block terminal and test your DC voltage polarity to make sure it isn’t reversed if you need to splice additional wire into your installation. The original positive wire is marked in red. If polarity is reversed I’m sure it will zap the control box. I also found that the connector attaching the power adapter to the power line was buggy and I cut it out. When doing your installation, use a multi meter to check your DC power to the control unit that should clock in at 5.5 VDC.Purchase 1” OD, ¾” ID tubing at your big box hardware store. I bought about 6 feet and that was plenty. The provided adapters work well and installation of tubing was easy. At start up, make sure the circ pump is primed. I did this by holding a garden hose into the water intakes in the spa.For my installation, I mounted the control box to the inside wall of the spa and cut an opening in the access panel. The control box is now flush with the door panel. I then taped a piece of plastic over the opening. This provides access to the control box and keeps it out of the weather. On my spa, there was no way of mounting it externally as the walls near the mechanical access opening are curved. I had read some other reviewers mention that the control box is not very water proof. I believe this to be the case, as when I opened it there is no rubber seal or any other waterproofing of the seams. The manufacturer sells a flush mounting kit that I found out there on the web for about half the price of the unit.Added fresh water to spa and didn’t need to add any other chemicals as PH test was in range. I just added salt. Per the instruction, phosphate may be a problem as it consumes chorine. At this point, I have been checking the chlorine daily to set the correct power level for the chlorine level to stay in the 1 ppm range. There is a boost function that you can hit anytime to increase chlorine production beyond the program amount selected per the manual. I’m hoping that between my wife and myself using the spa, I can just use boost to sanitize after using the spa without adding any chemical shock. I will provide an update to this review after some more time has passed.

First unit arrived and worked for a week. The replacement arrived without the circuit board in the controller and without the internals of the salt cell. The third unit arrived and has been installed. It appears to be working. Only time will tell howw long it lasts...

I originally purchased a competitors product that had a drape over the side reactor. They recommended using dead sea salt which was expensive and the drape over would have been a pain IMHO. The biggest thing is I didn't think the unit I originally purchase was safe. It had no safety certifications on any of the electrical components and the instructions said you had to take the reactor out of the water when the tub was in use. Well, I know a bit about electrical safety and that product went right back in the box and back to the retailer.I purchased this product in early March 2013. I have struggled for 13 years with water quality in my hot tub and used a fortune in chemicals trying to keep everything balanced. I didn't want the hassle of having a drape over the side unit so I opted for the in line reactor. I was a snap to put it in and even if you aren't an avid do it yourselfer you can probably handle installing this unit if you have normal common sense. The biggest thing that sold me is that even though the unit in itself is not listed by a third party testing laboratory for electrical safety, it is powered by a UL Listed class 2 power supply. That basically means it would be virtually impossible to get a shock from the unit if the installation instructions are followed.I have had this thing in operation for 2.5 months and the water remains clear and sparkling all the time without adding chemicals every time I use it. The trick is to make very sure the water is balanced perfectly on a new fill and that the salt content is within range. After that I never add chemicals unless I have to add water because of normal usage. The other thing is that after a while, the dissolved solids get too high and the water needs to be changed. I had that problem and I drained half the water from my 400 gallon tub and put in 1/2 fresh water. I balanced the chemicals and presto, clear and sparkling water again.I used to go on vacation for two weeks and when I returned, the tub was like a cesspool and had to be drained. I left for two weeks recently and presto, when I came home the tub was as clear and sparkling as it was when I left it.I am very pleased with this product. Now the next test is to see how long it will last.

It produces chlorine and keeps the tub clean. The installation was easy. I did have to buy some extra tubing to make it work in my tub. The one thing that I don't like is it is very difficult to change the chlorine level setting. You must press the up and down arrows simultaneously to enter the level setting mode and it usually takes me several tries to get it. This won't be a big problem, because once you get it dialed in you don't need to do it again. I am very pleased with the chlorine production in my 430 gallon tub.