Hot melt paraffin chain wax that aims to provide high levels of drivetrain efficiency while repelling dirt in even the most demanding conditions Features-Strip chain of grease and oil before waxing-Chains waxed per bag: 8 training or 16 race-For racing and training- Includes cable tie to reseal bag-Requires crock pot to melt wax-Paraffin is premixed with PTFE and molybdenum-Longevity up to 400 miles-Prevents grease tattoos from chain Item Specifications-Application Type:Solid Wax-Petroleum Based:No-Volume:1 -CasePack:No
Item Package Dimensions L x W x H | 10 x 6 x 6 inches |
Package Weight | 1.31 Pounds |
Item Dimensions LxWxH | 8.15 x 5.39 x 1.19 inches |
Item Weight | 16 ounces |
Brand Name | Molten |
Material | Wax |
Part Number | SPEED WAX 1 LB. |
J**A
There is no other acceptable chain lube.
If you know, you know. Im not here to give a physics lesson. (Its worth mentioning parrafin wax is much safer to have near pets than any crude oil based lube)
F**E
Tried, Tested and True--the best chain wax on the market.
I am writing this to counter the only other review so far on Molten. First, the wax used in Molten is NOT simply "candle" wax as the other writer states, but a much higher grade of paraffin, which means it doesn't have the usual oil that cheaper grades contain. And, of course you need a pot to boil your wax, but this is preferable to ready mixed liquid solutions, since, again, these contain various oils. Why is oil bad? Oil is wet/sticky and absorbent, which results in collecting grime (dust, dirt, and so forth) which is what causes your chains to get black, clump up, thicken, and so forth. The other point that the reviewer suggested is that once the mixture is boiling, the three basic elements separate--here's a big hint--mix it!! I've experimented with all kinds of dry and wet lubes, and this is by far the cleanest, most efficient additive out there. Do a web search and you should come up with a very comprehensive professional comparison review that clearly shows this as well. Of course you need to start with a clean chain, and gear sets--but you need to do this for any bike, so nothing special here. When everything is clean, you're ready to soak the chain. When heated correctly (any cheap crock pot will do), mix well--then let the chain soak in the solution for at least 30 minutes, mixing things up a few times. Take the chain out, wipe it down, put it on you bike, and you're good to go. I have found that the waxed chain will be good for 200 - 300 miles before re-waxing is necessary--use of Squirt or similar wax-based liquid lubricants can be used to extend the length if you wish. What you get are clean chains, and gears (no residual black grease), for the entire time, and, you will extend the life of both your chains and your gears--highly recommended!!
B**J
Ingredients are promising, reality is disappointing. DIY your own wax mix for better results.
Ingredients are promising, reality is disappointing. If you have the stuff required to get your chain clean enough to wax, and a dedicated melting pot to cook your chains, then you may as well mix your own wax to get better results more affordably.This is just candle wax, PTFE powder and Molybdenum powder mixed together. Sounds like a promising solution, because moly and ptfe in your chain rollers is a fantastic lubricant, but as soon as the mixture gets hot enough to melt the paraffin, all of the powdered lubricants separate from the wax and fall to the bottom.As a result, there's no way for those lubricants to get into your chain's rollers outside of gravity or some kind of continual agitator. You basically wind up with a fine dust on your chain as it sits in a transparent tub of melted wax. As soon as you move the chain, the powder falls off and remains on the bottom of the melting container.I won't buy this again, but I AM going to probably make my own wax. Planning to buy powdered PTFE and Molybdenum (and/or graphite) and mix with a scented candle wax. At least it'll have a pleasant smell?
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