2000W Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter DC 12V to 110V 120V AC with 4 Quick Charging USB Ports& 3 AC Outlets Power Inverters for Vehicles RV Truck Home with LCD Display and Remote Controller

I gave this inverter a pretty good test, and works better than I hoped!! I wanted something to help during power outages, either running a full size fridge and mini freezer, or if it is cold enough outside, to run my furnace.Overall a quality piece of hardware from what I can tell. The manual was almost perfect, the inverter was well labeled, and the connections were solid and easy to get setup. During my test with a mediocre lead acid battery, I ran a circular saw, shopvac and lastly a pretty good size air compressor. The inverter and battery handled the circular saw and shopvac. The air compressor was running around 1500 watts, and almost filled the tank, but the inverter went into fault mode F12, because the battery voltage dropped to under 11 volts. I powered the inverter off, then back on, and it still handled the vacuum cleaner! Don't worry, this is not the battery I will use for power outages, but wanted to see how issues like voltage were handled by the inverter. The inverter never got much more than warm, so the fans did not need to come on.The display showed watts being used, AC voltage supplied, current voltage of the battery, and how the battery was standing up to the load I was running through it. I did a lot of testing to see if the display was correct, and it was pretty much on the money!The only thing I could not find in the manual is recommendation how to discharge the inverter when done. There was 2.4 volts, which is not much. Not sure if it is necessary or not...

This is been a great product for me. It was an upgrade from my 800 watt, 12 volt pure sine wave inverter. Like many, I outgrew it and decided to move to a 24 volt setup. So far this has been flawless, plenty of power, nice to look at, rugged and sturdy. One of the things that already has impressed me, is there's no LED light flickering, when the MPPT charge controller goes to boost mode. This thing isn't even breaking a sweat. Currently running 4x100 amp hour lithium batteries wired in series parallel, with 4x100 Watt panels, soon to be 6 with room for growth. The remote monitor and wireless remote are nice additions.

This is being updated weeks after getting it.I am hooking this into a 24V, 100Ah LFP battery. I added an Anderson 175A quick connector to the supplied cable as this is meant for a portable setup. Probably should have done the 120A version. I also added an anti-spark circuit. While some people manually touch resisters and wires together to pre-charge the caps, my normal mode is to have a separate circuit designed for lower power that I hook up first to charge the caps with and then hook up the main circuit. Really, if you are going to be using this in a portable fashion, you will be thanking yourself for doing this down the road or at least not cursing because you can't get it to work with destroyed and heavily oxidized connectors and blown caps due to all of the sparking and abrupt high "short circuit" inrush currents and such.So far I have only found a few minor cons:1. As is as this is used as an "independently derived system", I used the terminal block to wire neutral to ground. I found hot and neutral are mislabeled on the front, which the socket tester quickly spotted, so I switched to the right conductor. At least the black wire is hot, so they got that much right. Now it passes the wiring test. As you could fry something if you don't go through the paces / have an unsafe setup or say with your camper / RV, end up having your RV reject the power, I thought this was important to point out.2. The supplied DC battery wiring does get a little warm while pulling 2,400W through the inverter. They say that 4 AWG wire in the manual is good enough, but I have to wonder if 2 AWG would be a better idea.3. The 110V/120V button on the RCU seems to cause an error message. Really, not sure why this button is there. Anything can take up to 125V, which this will never exceed and lower voltages mean easier to brown out over extension cables. It looks like there is a special procedure to get it to switch, but why would you?4. The deal with the wired remote and wireless is a little confusion. Just use one or another, not both. It looks like for the wireless remote, you need a special battery, but the information for this is in the manual. It looks like the wireless remote works in parallel to the main on/off switch, meaning the switch needs to be off while the wired remote needs the unit to be turned on and then it can be used to activate / inactivate the inverter portion of the unit. For the wireless remote, if you do have the main power switch on, you will just hear the unit make a clicking sound as you hit the on and off buttons on the remote, but it won't affect anything because the main switch is already causing the inverter to be powered on.For pros of this unit:1. It seems I can load up both of the supplied 120V outlets to sum up greater than 1,500W. This is actually how I got up to 2,400W in my testing with the limit there I didn't want to push the battery harder. I have since wired up the terminal block to a 10 AWG extension cable going to a TT-30 plug.2. It has a nice and useful display. Really, this makes the unit nicer than most because everything is right there on one screen.3. Overall, it does seem like a nice unit that will do the job I have for it.To go back over wiring to sum it all up in one place:1. Wired a jumper wire between ground and neutral in order to have a ground-neutral bond in the system. Unless you are wiring to a panel that already has a ground-neutral bond, this is needed for safety. This is done with fork connectors.2. Wired a ground wire from the ground terminal on the inverter to a wall plug with only the ground wire hooked up. This allows me to easily hook the inverter to house ground. As this is an independently derived electrical system, with #1, I now have a complete electrical setup like you would at your main panel with a ground - neutral bond and an earth-ground. It is just this is all wired up at the terminal block instead of inside of a panel. The other benefit is now if you are using for backup or supplemental power in your home, everything is at the same reference voltage.3. A 10 AWG cable hooked up to the terminal block. 10 AWG can carry the full power of this 3,000W inverter. For now, this goes to a TT-30 plug that is plugged into a fan-out adapter cable so I can plug multiple devices straight into this 30A capable cable. TT-30 is handy as you can find this on trailers and at camping sites as well as generators. So one plug type and I have versatility to use my equipment as I see fit, inverter, inverter generator, extension cords, and camp site plugs.

Works as it should, quality build for a fraction of the cost. Easy to set up and not too noisy.

I bought one of these and it didn't work right out of the box. Got another one to replace it, and it worked fine for about 3 months. I use it to power the security system at the mini storage facility I own. It started thinking that the high quality power supple was over charging the deep cycle batteries to the tune of 15.5 VDC. They were actually getting 14.5 VDC. The "safety" function of the inverter shut everything off ... so no security system. Good thing I caught it just before going on vacation. Don't depend on these units.

Inverter does what it says it does. Has worked without issue for months off-grid in an RV application. Quality seems above average. It's not a Victron product but I've purchased much cheaper feeling products from similar Chinese manufacturers.Only minor gripes:It's not the most efficient machine. Idle wattage a little higher than I'd like to see but it's not terribleRemote output display is nowhere near accurate. Pretty uselessOverall, the price was great. Inverter works well. I've made worse purchases on this site for my PV/off-grid set up.

As advertised. Happy with the 2000w inverter. The wireless remote and wired remote with live data monitoring on the wire remote and on the top of the device. Tested 1000w load. worked like charm. The fans are also quiet and automatic, so fans not always running, only when it is needed.

Works very well, fan only runs intermittently, and not for that long. I’ve only used up to 600 watts so far, but it’s done great!