MAHLE Original TM 25 108 Engine Coolant Thermostat Housing

Das Autó seit wann 0.4 liter benzin wenische verbraucht .

Got an error code for my thermostat heater so I ordered this to replace it. The job was fairly easy. Let the car cool down, take off the air box, a couple air tubes, then the 3 coolant lines attached to the old thermostat. Then put this one is and put everything back together. Then refill the coolant and bleed the lines with the screw, and then with the car's automatic bleeding process. I bought one bottle of concentrated coolant from the dealership and 4L distilled water from the grocery store, they were more than enough. Only special tool I would recommend is a set of hose clamp pliers, makes taking the coolant hoses off a lot easier.It has been about 2 months since I installed it with no issues. Went on a road trip through the mountains so I had a range of temperatures (pun intended). Once I cleared the codes on my car it hasn't shown any lights or pending codes.

Para reemplazar el que me reporto servicio BMW que pronto empezará a fallar.Así que lo busqué y lo encontré.

My engine light went on and the code reader detected a fault in the engine thermostat. I ordered this part and some coolant which allowed me to repair my car for under $100 and under an hour. Saved me a lot of money by not having to get ripped off by the dealership.

If you have the 1D2404 error code on a BMW N20/N26 engine this is 95+ percent likely to be your problem. Even if you have resistance on the unit cold, it is probably going open when heating up for a few minutes.This unit is exactly the same Behr thermostat (now owned by Mahle) that came in my 2014 car.. Exact same markings, and castings aside for 2014 date code on my original, 2021 on the new one. States Germany in the casting and on the now Mahle sticker. I hope to get 8-9 years out of this one too.BTW, don’t forget the “mouse ears” fitting, $10-14 here or like me you’ll probably need to run out local (and pay $30) when you realize now is past time to replace it less it leave you stranded.I actually changed this carefully collecting almost every drop of coolant in a drain pan and only had to use a cup or so of new coolant, but if you haven’t done a change recently now is the time anyway. One gallon of full strength blue and a gallon of distilled water will more than get it done.This is a less than 2 hour job, depending on how fast you work, hardest parts are cutting the factory crimp clamp off the head outlet hose at the “mouse ears”, getting the T30 bolts holding the thermostat in/out working pretty much blind by feel, without dropping a bolt or T30 bit, and draining the coolant initially without causing a big mess. A couple tips not in most videos if you pull the intake pipe section (which is smart) and PCV tube, make sure you cover the inlet end with a plastic bag before pulling the lower radiator hose off the thermostat housing as even if you drain below first there is coolant trapped above the thermostat to pour out. I pulled one of the lowest hoses down on the crossmember first to drain down most of the block and below the thermostat into my drain pan allowing the careful reuse of most of my coolant.Finally bleed procedure is fresh charged battery, hop in car, push start (foot off brake) for accessory position, turn heat all the way up, fan on first speed, press and hold gas pedal 10-15 seconds you will hear fuel pump relay, and water pump turn on, get out of car go watch coolant stream back to reservoir. Let it cycle 5-10 minutes until done, get back in cycle start button off and on, do it once more if you were still having a lot of air in return stream.