1-Pack Ender 3 Oldham Coupling Coupler for Upgrade CR10 S4 S5 Ender 3 Pro V2 3S CR10S PRO 3D Printer Z axis 8mm Lead Screw Hotbed Advoid Radial Misalignment (Oldham Coupling)

The media could not be loaded.  This lead screw nut is too long to expect it to bolt right in and work 100% of the time. It will work with everything tight though, I even attached a picture of the screws being tight and a video showing there is no binding. If you need to loosen anything and leave it loose you need to address the problem with the printer not blame the nuts....don't be a hack...Loosing the screws that hold in this nuts is NOT the solution. If you are loosing the lead screw nuts screws to reduce/eliminate binding then you effectively just moved the slop in the nut to slop in the screws.First when you install these nuts, they will feel very tight almost like the thread pitch is wrong, it is not. Just use a bit of force the thread pitch is fairly steep it will be difficult to actually cross them them. Its brass so it will conform to the steel lead screw. Dry fit them on the lead screw off the printer and verify you can spin the assembled nut up and down the lead screw. Once you verify that you know it works and other problems need to be addressed separately.With the lead screw off, the gantry should want to slam into the printer bed. If it doesn't you need to adjust the rollers on it so it does. But you want to also want to verify the they aren't too loose. There is a step at the end I use to perfect this adjustment. If the gantry binds at certain points you need to loosen the vertical rails from the base of the machine, move the gantry to the bottom and retighten it. That will insure the spacing is good. Then loose the vertical rails at the top move the gantry to the top and retighten them.This is the most critical and difficult step. When you install the lead screw into the nut when it clears the nut by a 1/4" or so make sure you have the gantry as low as it will go and thread in the lead screw the rest of the way. It needs to be perfectly aligned with the z dimension stepper motor and freely drop into the coupling. If it does not then you can expect it to bind.To correct that sometimes its simple. Run the lead screw into the z dimension coupler and loosen the screws on the lead screw nut, wiggle everything and retighten them. Then loosen where the stepper bolts to the rail (horizontal screws) wiggle everything and retighten them.Worst case the bracket holding the screw screw nut (near the x dimension step) might need a slight tweak to make sure its pointing precisely at the stepper.Back to the rollers I mentioned above.. Tighten them to the point there is no slop but you can still force one wheel to spin against the rail. One of them should be able to spin with a bit of effort freely. This way you know it has good pressure to hold tight but not so tight its producing friction.I've used tons of these nuts and some printers they work with no effort, others have annoying required all the above steps.

Works

They can work with oldham couplings but they will require modification due to the holes being slightly off and the base is larger than the originals adding more weight.

Some received a product that doesn't fit on their machine. I did not, and installation with a POM nut was quick and removed 100% of binding. I checked for loose tolerances and there is a very slight wiggle that can be felt and heard, but not seen, which is good enough for the Z-axis of a 3d printer. I suggest hanging your gantry from this coupling and having the nut above them both so gravity pre-loads it, reducing backlash by ensuring the nut meshes on lower side of the threading at all times.As for reduction in print artifacts, I can say it does help but isn't a panacea. Adjust eccentric nuts. Replace POM wheels. Look into a ways to support the other end of the gantry.

Used this kit to upgrade the stability of the Z-axis on my Creality CR10S-Pro V2. Gantry kept sagging to one side when the power turned off. Installed these puppies and *poof* - no more tilt! I can press gently down on the frame and it stays put.The nice thing about these is that you don't have to cut the brass fittings to fit onto the frame- just remove the screws, compress each unit and install. Better have two sets of tweezers to hold the small parts when reinstalling, though. Also, if it doesn't screw onto the axis the first few times, no worries- it's a precision part.Here are the steps I followed.1. Gently unscrew the threaded rod from the frame. Remove the current brass fittings, set the screws aside in a safe place. A towel or small bowl is fine.2. Rotate the brass collar slowly and as straight as possible until it screws on enough to stay put. Do not screw it on all the way.3. Compress the rest of the fitting onto the part before continuing the rotation. The teeth should be locked into each other.4. Secure the brass fitting to the frame of your machine using your screws, but flush the nuts with the underside of your frame before you finish securing your screws.5. Make sure the top of your rod is flush with the top of the frame before you secure the collars to the motor. This will prevent the threads on your axis from being misaligned.Hope this helps!

Purchased bc nut tolerances on the 2 z axis upgrade for my ender 3 were poor.Tolerance on these parts fit my setup very well. The anti backlash might not have had much affect but prints are cleaners now.

Says cr10 ... but when you receive kit you only get 1 item ... very pricy for only 1 ...

Preso per Anycubic Konbra max, sono perfetti

Fast shipping and great quality

Supprime le jeux de la vis d'elevation . Pieces bien ameliorées