Araldite Repair Putty Extremely Hard Setting Filler Solution with High Temperature Resistance For Durable Bonding & Repairs 50g, Colour May Vary

I had some stripped out threads on a door frame. I drilled the holes out a little and then filled them with the mixed putty, put the screws in place (after spraying them with silicone as a release agent). Checked about 10 minutes later and it had set rock hard (probably set faster than this). Absolutely solid repair, I'm pretty sure the new threads are stronger than the original wood. Quick and easy.Just as an indication of how strong this stuff is when it sets, I had an extra piece that I hadn't used. Approximately 5mm diameter, 10mm long and I barely managed to break it in half. And that was only because it had a break line in it from where I had folded it during mixing. If you were really careful to make sure there were no fracture points it would be really difficult to break with your bare hands.

I used some of this to fix/reinforce a small crack in a fibreglass bath tub, applying it to the outside of the tub after carefully cleaning the (rough) surface with isoproyl alcohol. It stuck well, and set rock hard. I blended it down to very thin around the edges so that any flexing also flexes the hardened putty, rather than risking causing it to peel. For aesthetic reasons I coated along the crack on the inside of the tub with a thin, clear UV setting resin, to provide a smooth finish.I only used about a quarter of the supplied stick for the above, the rest remains for other uses. Cutting it off to the desired length even with an Xacto blade left the hardener and resin parts smeared slightly together. Kneading it to mix it was slightly frustrating in latex gloves, because it sticks quite well to the gloves. On the other hand, it sticks pretty well to the things that you do want it to stick to, too.There are cheaper varieties of this kind of product, including some that incorporate metal powders and so on, and some in much lighter colours, but this stuff basically works as advertised, is comparable in price to other recognized brands, and I have no reason to doubt its cured strength or durability. If you're not expecting it to work actual miracles, and you're OK with the colour, then I don't think it will disappoint.Verdict: Did what I wanted. As epoxy putty goes, this seems pretty sound.

Easy to mix and apply, does not set too quickly but that’s a bonus as it allows working time to place it where it’s needed. That said, when it sets , it really does set like it says, it can be filed, drilled, and treated like any original material so that is another bonus.

I have used this for two repairs and it has worked really well. One tricky repair was the trigger guard on a Dyson vacuum cleaner that broke off. I glued the trigger guard back on with superglue but used this putty to provide additional support or it would have snapped off again. Not only has it done the job but the trigger guard is now more comfortable. It has adhered well to the plastic of the cleaner.When using this, you need to mix the putty well and quickly then get on with the job. Five minutes goes fast and the putty will start to harden after a couple of minutes. Plan ahead what you need to do and make sure you have any moulding tools you will need. Keep a damp cloth handy for wiping your hands and smoothing the putty if needed. It is best to mould your rough shape very fast and then do any finer detailing and moulding as the putty goes harder. Remember you can always sand or file it further when it has gone hard.This is something I will always keep in my toolbox from now on.

best for repairs

This metal putty is easy to mix and use and gives good results

I had a corner shelf that was knocked off the wall tearing out the mounting plugs and leaving two large holes. I wanted to fill the holes with something that could be drilled. So I could refit the little shelf. Normal fillers for plaster are not strong enough for drilling.Because plaster, and house brick behind it, are crumbly it meant the epoxy would be adhering to a loose, dusty, crumbly surface and, although it would set hard, it would be adhering to nothing reliable. So I mixed 1 part PVA glue with 4 parts of water and used a small paint brush to liberally paint inside the holes. Then left it 24 hours for the PVA to sink in and set. I could then stick my finger in the hole and it was not covered in loose plaster dust when I pulled it out.Cut off enough epoxy to fill one hole at a time and, wearing strong disposable gloves, knead it just enough so it becomes a uniform colour. Don't spend a lot of time kneading it, work quick, pack it in the hole the instant the colour looks fairly uniform.Using a wooden rod I packed it in tightly, until it came to about 2mm below the surface of the wall. Once it had set (I left it a couple of days) I was able to skim over the area with a lightweight filler and repaint the wall. Since then I have refitted the shelf by pilot-drilling into the hardened epoxy and using self-tapping screws.Conclusion: Fantastic stuff providing...1. The surface it is adhering to is solid and not dusty.2. You must have disposable gloves but not flimsy ones! It is very sticky as you knead it.3. You work quick. Stop kneading as soon as the colour is reasonably uniform. The epoxy hardening action will spread through the mix anyway.

Wasn't as good as I thought it would be. But I am sure it will come in useful for some other job