By the Smoke and the Smell: My Search for the Rare and Sublime on the Spirits Trail

I have known Thad Vogler as a friend and colleague for well over fifteen years. We have worked closely together at multiple stages of our personal and professional development in and around SF and abroad. With each passing year, after hundreds- if not thousands- of interactions with purveyors, distributors, customers, chefs, distillers, and other bartenders, a philosophy began to take shape that would ultimately define what Bar Agricole stood for upon its opening in 2010. This book is an attempt to share a bit of that guiding philosophy with folks who may not have the opportunity (or the luxury) to immerse themselves in what we research, taste, debate and discover for so many hours of every week, every month and every year. It is not a bar book per se, in the sense that there is very little information about recipes (since there are already enough cocktail recipe books in the world, many of which we find to be indispensable i.e. The Savoy Bar Book, Old Waldorf Days, The Fine Art Of Mixing Drinks, Charles H Baker's Gentlemen's Companion, William "Cocktail Bill" Boothby's American Bar-Tender). Rather, By The Smoke And The Smell is more akin in spirit to Adventures on the Wine Route by Kermit Lynch, Reading Between The Wines by Terry Theise, or even The Book of Tea by Okakura Kazuko. All of which are books that make the reader feel like they have been invited to participate in a discussion with the individual author about their guiding principles, the ideas that excite them, and the people in the field whom they admire most, and take away a whole new understanding of the topic, while simultaneously being charmed by the unique wit and the sly self deprecating humor that Thad possesses.

A "spirited memoir" of world-wide travels in search of authentic artisan-crafted spirits to accompany honest, locally-sourced foods. Thad Vogler, in eleven chapters, describes the origins of unique and genuine distilled drinks from French and Spanish brandies (calvados and armagnac), Cuban and Dominican rums, Scottish whiskys, Oaxacan mezcals, and Kentucky bourbons. He introduces us to the farmers and distillers at the source, bringing them to life with vivid writing. The smells of dew on vineyards, wood fires, and barnyards weave through the chapters as Thad and his partners from Bar Agricole and other bars and restaurants search for honest spirits that they can use with the same integrity as their carefully selected foods. In places, the search reads like poetry, supplying the reader (and presumably the eventual taster) with the romantic and history-filled stories that suffuse lovingly-made drinks. In other places, the characters are rugged and dangerous, plucked from a pirate novel brandishing clubs and knives. We know from the fact that he published his book that Thad survived, but we are gripped with worry for his companions. Sometimes I dreamed of being able to go along on the trip to taste and smell and meet the people, and sometimes I was glad to be safe sipping a Cadenhead's bottling of Bowmore single malt in my armchair. What we learn about Thad is that his passions and influences are like the essential elements in a distilled spirit. The experiences and people mix and age over the decades to form a well-crafted, complex, and satisfying philosophy.

A terrific read for any who appreciate fine spirits, and for those who distill and serve them. This book offers closely observed detail and insight into the craft of small-scale traditional distilling. Vogler’s careful descriptions are a lens that sharpens our understanding of the differences between artisanal distilling and the massive-scale production of spirits. In his descriptions of his own discoveries, Vogler educates the reader about the history of the spirits we drink. His accounts of artisan production of armagnac, mezcal, rum, whiskey and bourbon enable us to taste the origins of these venerable spirits. He is equally engaging in his exploration of his working relationships: not only his relationships with colleagues but also those with customers, producers, and distributors. Vogler’s candid and compelling descriptions of himself, his colleagues, and his companions on these pilgrimages add a human dimension to the meaning of ‘spirits.’

My favorite book of the year so far. I had expected to find a poignant and thoughtful portrayal of the spirit industry, and maybe a little window into how Thad Vogler gets all of the ridiculous spirits he serves at his bars. I did not expect this to posses such honesty, humor and suspense. This is a piercingly truthful portrayal of a life in service, the relationships that sustain us, and the characters that make this life valuable. It has the irreverent wit and humor of Anthony Bourdain, and reminds me of Michael Pollan with its eye-opening attention to the agricultural truths of the products we consume. It was so much fun to read, and I recommend it with total confidence to anyone who cares about travel, spirits, agriculture, or the service industry.

Loved this funny, poignant, passionate and informative journey through the eyes of a master storyteller! I carved out an afternoon at the beach to immerse myself in this story that isn't only about the world of spirits, but the strong ties of friendship, camaraderie and a passion to find those special spirits that have been cultivated by families with stories to tell and food to share! Appreciate the emphasis of your journeys to find those gems that embody the best spirit of "farm to table" in the cocktail world. I feel that I know all of the travelers and had many laugh out loud moments. I've already recommended it to several colleagues whom also appreciate the depth and history of their spirits. Great job Thad!

This is exquisitely observed travel writing and a manifesto for the finest (not necessarily most expensive) distilled spirits in the world. What’s not to love? An absolute treat.

Very interesting read