DROK AC Multimeter, AC 40-300V 100A 110V/220V Voltage Current Power Factor Frequency Electric Energy Monitor with Current Transformer, Digital LCD HD Display, Volt Amp Watt Detector Reader Panel

Love how it looks, the easy installation and easy to read layout. Have it set up on my Tesla charger and the readings are extremely accurate.Have seen other reviews where it wasn’t reading 240v but have determined that is due to improper installation. Mine is reading accurate voltage and current.Only negatives are the placement of the temperature connection and non standard size. The temp sensor is on the bottom at the very front that prevents installation prior to mounting the meter. It just makes it a little tricky to plug in but not a big deal.I installed the meter using a 4”x4” surface mount junction box set 9” above charger. This allowed for the sensor to be contained in the box and temp probe reaches the charger.I custom designed and printed a box cover/faceplate to mount the meter and make for a really clean display. A printed 7mm mounting spacer for the junction box placed the box exactly in line with the charger.I am very happy with the end result. Feel free to look me up if you’d like your own custom faceplate mount.

I have a pretty decent sized generator for running my house when we loose power (it has happened 3 times in the last month alone :( ). I have a 50 amp power hook-up in my garage that backfeeds my breaker panel through a generator breaker with the main breaker interlock. I thought my generator had a power meter on it to see how loaded it is, but it didn't. Being in the boonies, we have no gas service of any kind so everything is electric in the house. With the 50 amps, we can run anything, but can't run it all at once, so we need to stage certain things on. I made a little power meter panel with these so that I can tell how much we are pulling to see if I need to turn stuff off to run other stuff.These work great so far. They seem pretty accurate and were pretty easy to install. As other reviews have said, it would be nicer if the current sensor wires were a little longer. Wasn't a big deal for this project since I was able to make it into some terminal blocks and then ran from there with a longer wire, but I can what a pain for a couple cents worth of additional wire. The only other complaint I had was that a cutting template or at least some dimensions would have been nice for making the panel opening. I had to wing it and did ok, but still wound up with a small gap on one side of the screens. The screen rim is pretty small so you can't be more than 2 mm off with the hole size.

I bought two (KWS-AC301 50v-300v/100A Pro+) of these to do a load study while planning my solar power system. This unit shows 8 values including Power Factor and Temperature. I connected both to 100 watt lamp to validate the accuracy. Voltage and current readings on both units were within 1% of my Klein professional meter. Power Factor displayed 1.0 which is correct since it was a pure resistive load, and Kwh calculated correctly over time. So the good news is they passed the bench test with flying colors.I've had them connected to my 240v well pump. I take daily readings at the same time each day to determine daily usage. Current flow is 8.2A, right in line with the pump manufacturer's specs. The run time feature makes it really easy to determine how long the pump actually runs each day and the kwh consumption.A couple of comments regarding using this data correctly and comments from others regarding inaccurate or confusing information:1. There are several comments about kw not calculating the same as volts multiplied by amps. This is most likely NOT an error in the meter because this is AC power, not DC power. Unless the load is purely resistive, (most are not) kw will NOT equal volts multiplied by amps (known as VA or Volt-Amps). This is due to something called Power Factor (Google it). If the overall load is inductive (i.e. motors, fans, pumps, refrigerators, freezers, etc) or capacitive (i.e. Computers, TVs, etc) kw and VA will not be the same. If your meter does not display Power Factor, you can calculate it by the formula PF = watts/(volts x amps). Typical power factor for homes range from .75 to 1.00 depending on what is running in the home at any given time.2. 240 VAC split phase measurements - You need to understand the load you are measuring in order to get the correct reading. If you are measuring a single device (such as a well pump, dryer or EV Charge Station) they typically are 240V "split phase". You can measure this with ONE meter. Put the probe on ONE wire. It will display 120 volts. There is no neutral wire so the amps flowing in the other leg is the same. Take the kw reading and multiply times two, because the meter is showing 120 volts, but the actual circuit is 240 VAC. You could also install two meters and simply add the kw values. If the panel is feeding multiple 120 volt circuits using two primary legs L1 and L2, you should use two meters - one on each leg. A 120 volt circuit has current flow through the neutral, so the current flow on L1 and L2 may be different. With that said, the CT diameter of these coils is small - this meter may not work depending on the size of the conductors you want to measure. You won't be able to measure the current flowing through your 200A main panel.

Everything is good about it I will recommend it easy to installGreat results

I got this for measuring the power draw and kWh usage for my car charger and it works great. It is about the size of a 1 gang switch and was fairly easily adaptable to a 4 inch square electrical box in this case. The display fits nicely behind a 1 gang Decora style wall plate opening and you can easily access the reset button.

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I can’t speak to its accuracy but it’s readings are very believable I use built it into a power cord for my pc to see what kinda usage it was getting, screen is bright colours look good was easy to use and wire into my use all in all a fun gadget for my use

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