Briwax Original Furniture Wax 16 Oz - Dark Brown

I’m a renter and my kitchen cabinets are super nice, real wood and such, but they’re that outdated orange oak that was popular in the 80s and 90s. I’ve been hunting around on YouTube for ways to update my kitchen cabinets without ruining my landlords home. I gave putting contact paper on them a wild fling only to find that it looked oh so very cheap. I think the contact paper method is good for counters (that’s the marble look in the photos) but I don’t know how other people got that to work for their cabinets!Enter: briwax! (All the YouTube videos I found called for the Tudor brown color, but that was 30 bucks on here compared to 18 and honestly this dark brown is pretty much the same to me!)This stuff smells to high heaven but it gave my cabinets a fairly updated feel (took the orange out) while also cleaning and conditioning the wood. I think they turned out super nice and I was able to do my entire kitchen in just a couple days (while also working full time). It wasn’t a drastic change that my landlord would be displeased with, and it updated the space.Things I learned when going from lighter to darker wood using briwax:1) somebody on YouTube will say to use a chalk paint brush to apply. Do not do that. You will hate it. Just grab a bundle of automotive towels from Walmart (10 for about 4 bucks) and dip one in the wax, apply and rub liberally, and then wipe off with another rag.2) clean cabinets with kitchen degreaser prior to. I know this sounds like a duh thing but scrub them down really good. I could tell the difference between the cabinets I went in on versus the ones I rushed through.3) use gloves! I was using just regular medical grade gloves but ended up just using a pair of old dish washing gloves. This stuff seeps into anything and it stains your skin.4) tape off whatever you’re going to be working near (walls, appliances, etc…) and lay down aomething to protect surfaces underneath ( counters, floor, etc…). A rag is not precise and this will get everywhere especially if you’re rushing like I was. It stains! Had to use goo gone on my floor when I got some on it.5) if you’ve got water damage on a door or two below the sink like I do, this stuff will soak right on in. Thankfully it’s pretty forgiving, aesthetically, so you really can’t tell on mine.6) remove the knobs and pulls. Just flat out makes it easier and you don’t have to tape them off or be super slow and careful. I went ahead and gave my old gold pulls a spray paint oil rubbed bronze update while I was at it since they were raggedy and unsightly from age anyway.Last thing is to not get frustrated right off. This took some time for the novice DIY-er like me to get used to before I hit a stride. I started with the least noticeable doors above the fridge and got my feet underneath me with them. By the last doors I was movin and groovin and having a great time. If you apply too heavily or let it dry by accident before wiping off, don’t panic. Just apply more wax and rub until you get that perfect finish!

Great product. Never fails to make old sterfscènes new again

I've used Briwax for years to restore antiques. Great stuff. None better.

It did change the color of the cabinets however, I have to do two layers. One thing I would suggest is to do it in the morning and open all windows and doors to let the air in the room you are using it. I made the mistake of doing it at night and almost two hours later I couldn't breath, the smell of the product was pretty strong through the house. I purchase two and I ended up using only one for the entire Kitchen.

Good stuff but way Over priced!I won’t buy anymore just not worth the price

The media could not be loaded.  If, however you are looking for that deep, rich tone and sheen and don't mind using some 'elbow grease to buff it out...this is for you. This table [I use as my desk] is 135yr-old teak that is unfinished, meaning no veneer. It has one application of the dark brown stain and one of the clear coat. You will get almost this same sheen just buffing out the stain layer but don't apply it too thick. With this table I apply it in thirds (low, mid, top) [lower section in 1st picture], let each section dry and buff each section out [In the second photo you can see the buffed area on the left before I applied the clear coat to the middle portion]. If you want to 'go the distance' you can come back with a thin layer of clear and repeat. If you have nothing to do the next day you can give it another buff in the morning before you put your things back on the surface. The little video is how I buff out the clear coat. don't worry, elbow grease works too. :-)

Left three cabinets are done, far right cabinet isn't for comparison. Dark Brown on honey oak cabinets.

I bought this to recondition some antique dining room chairs that I recently purchased. It did a beautiful job of restoring the walnut color to the chairs.The label warns that it melts in warm temperatures. I have to say that this feature is exactly what you want. The first time that I worked on my chairs, the temperature was in the high 80s F and it had turned to a liquid. Perfect! It went on very easily with no fuss. The next time that I worked on my chairs, the temperature had cooled a bit -- only in the mid 70s -- and the wax was a typical wax consistency. Not so great. It was much harder to spread evenly. So, in the future when I need to use it again, I will gently warm it up, maybe on a heating pad.Since it contains a stain, it is a one step process to stain and wax at the same time. This is a definite plus. However, it would probably be a good idea to finish with a clear wax coat just so that there would be very little chance of any stain coming off onto clothing.I forgot to mention that it needs a good buffing to make the surface really shine beautifully.All in all, great product. It costs about 3 x as much as the wax available in local grocery and hardware stores, but I loved that the wax was tinted. Worth the price. I'll buy it again as needed.