🔄 Upgrade Your Heater Game!
The Hayward IDXL2BKP1930 Bezel and Keypad Assembly is a precision-engineered replacement part designed for select Hayward H-Series Low Nox Induced Draft Heaters manufactured from 2005 to present. Weighing just 19.3 pounds, this assembly ensures a perfect fit and easy installation, allowing you to maintain optimal performance and efficiency in your heating system.
T**R
Excellent update to our pool/spa heater.
Not sure what the difference is between this one and the $50 oval one, but this is the one I needed to keep everything working. The old one would have to be pressed to hard and to many times to get it to cycle. Once this one was installed, it was working with no problems.Picture looks like the one I took off, but not the one I put back on. I guess I got an updated version or something.
A**R
Not Hayward OEM part as pictured or advertised
Not Hayward OEM part as advertised. I paid extra for an OEM part but was obviously after-market. No "HAYWARD" logo on bezel as pictured, plastic was thin and flimsy not thick like my old one, no waterproof rubber gasket was included like on my old one. looks just like the ShineUs aftermarket one on amazon that was $50.00 cheaper. Boy did I get ripped off should of returned it but I needed it for the weekend.
M**N
Exact Replacement for Hayward H300-Series Heaters
My soft-touch controls for the temperature on my Hayward 300-series (H300ED2) finally failed after approximately 8 years. This unit (IDXL2BKP1930) is an exact replacement, and indeed is exactly as pictured (9" wide at the top and 8" wide at the bottom). Some pictures make this unit look rectangular, and some show an oval replacement part (I don't know if Hayward uses this part number interchangably - wouldn't make sense) but indeed this is the correct one for my H300ED2.However, installing this is no simple task, and be WARNED IT DOES NOT COME WITH A GASKET! There is a gasket between the face of this unit and the metal mounting plate, and you will NOT be able to repurpose the old one because over the years it has pretty much fused itself to the mounting bracket. I got around this by putting a bead of plumbers putty along the top and sides that should keep it water-tight, but you may want to buy a 9" x 9" sheet of gasket material and cut your own, or locate the part number for Hayward's gasket and order it separately!You would think pulling the 4 forward facing screws would be all you need to do for this "plug & play" replacement unit, wouldn't you? No, it's just the start - remove those 4 screws and you should be able to pull the entire assembly through the mounting plate. Be firm but gentle as the gasket discussed above may have slightly fused to the plate and it won't want to come out easily, and remove the two screws on the left and right of the mounting plate and flip it out if that helps so you can see behind the unit.Once the entire assembly is out, you'll need to remove the 3 screws that hold the metal backplate on, and then 2 screws that hold the plastic back enclosure to the face plate. Remove the red and white cable that snakes through a hole in this enclosure carefully, it has a snap lock on the circuit board below that can be brittle from age. This plastic housing may also be somewhat fused to the face plate by the gasket, just work it a bit or pry after removing the two mounting screws, it will come off.Disconnect the data cable from the old unit, make note of the mounting pins. Also observe the LED display and diodes that insert into the unit - they have 4 little snap locks that hold them in place - you should work this out of the old unit now so it can't snag and get damaged in the next step.The circuit board is held in place by 2 screws on the top side, and two plastic anchors on the bottom. Remove the two screws and lift the circuit board out, being mindful of the LED display and diodes discussed above.You've now removed the old unit, install the new unit by simply following those steps backwards. Remember to replace the gasket or put a bead of plumbers putty along the top and sides of the new unit if you do not have a gasket, and when you get to the final step where you screw the unit to the metal face with 4 screws BE GENTLE and use a hand-screwdriver. If you use a power driver you can strip the mounting holes.It took me about 30 minutes, trying to figure things out as I went and address the gasket problem. It should only take you half that time with this info. :)
J**A
We did a happy dance and my husband thinks I'm a genius
My heater was stuck at 97. I had an estimate of over $600 and the service man wanted to replace the circuit board too. I found this and it took 15 mins for the two of us to replace it. Very simple and all we needed. We did a happy dance and my husband thinks I'm a genius.
S**D
Four Stars
Easy install and has worked great
A**R
Part worked as advertised. However be warned that it's ...
Part worked as advertised. However be warned that it's not a straight plug and play. As a previous reviewer said, you'll have to remove the back cover of the assembly, then the circuit board etc once the panel is taken off the heater. But once you know that needs to be done, it's a quick 10 min replacement.
S**D
Picture doesn't match the product
The picture shown doesn't match what they send you. In addition is just the display there is no display board attached. You would have to buy all three the display, display board and the main controller board if you really want to fix your heater. If your heater is over 6 years old I would just spend the extra money and buy a new heater.
K**E
Five Stars
Works perfectly with no problems to install or operate.
Trustpilot
2 weeks ago
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