48V 1000W

Je me suis construit un vélo électrique.Tout marchais exceptionnellement bien .J'était extrêmement content de cette achat .La qualité du moteur et de l'accélérateur sont exceptionnels,mais malheureusement le circuit de contrôle a simplement arrêter de marcher après une semaine.Je l'ai bien inspecter et il semble simplement être défectueux.J'amerais discuter avec le fournisseur mais je ne sais pas comment le contacter.

Nice little kit. Used this kit to convert a go kart to electric, run it off of 60 volt DeWalt batteries. Works great, all options work as they should. Reverse, brake lights, 3 speed switch, variable throttle, everything was good to go. Easy to wire, some labels are a little odd in translation from Chinese but pretty easy to figure out. Variable speed peddle is nice, controller can get a bit hot after an hour of continuous use andmay need a rest to cool off. Using the 3 speed setting switch 1st did 12.1 mph topspeed with a 60 tooth axle gear, I didn't use the gears or chain that came with the kit. I had #35 chains and sprockets as spares from other karts and used those so everything matched. Second I didn't pace or radar but I'd say probably 22-24 mph and third has to be pushing 40 mph with me in the kart. I'm about 200 lbs and this kit has no issues moving me around at a good clip. Kids love it, they get about 30-40 minutes out of a Dewalt 60 volt 3 ah (marked as a 9 ah but that uses 20 volt to get that rating) Figured the DeWalt batteries would work as I have several for my power tools and be easier for the kids to charge and swap out. And if buying some they are a lot cheaper then e-bike/e-scooter batteries.

I have only received the motor/controller and am in the process of installing this system but it is being put in my own design so it will take a while for a comprehensive review. for now, I thought I would do the review on what I know. The motor and controller came in protective foam wrapping and box adequate for shipping. While there are nicks/scratches on the motor just like the product description states. these are cosmetic and are not going to affect the performance. If it bothers you the motor is nicely polished and a simple buffing can resolve it. I wish they had included mating connectors for everything. These are not STD that I can tell so for my project I will have to cut the ends and remark the cables and would surely void any warranty on the controller. Having mating connectors can prevent that. Once I have my project completed I an probably help supply a schematic that most people may be interested in using. What is odd the brake light and indicator light both show 48V output. That is a high voltage for lights, normal LED/lights for vehicles are 12V so will interesting to see if I can find lights or a way to step that down. Also, it is not clear if that changes to 60V if the SM 48V/60V wire is connected. Also, there is a reversing signal pigtail. Not clear how that is setup, but I assume a simple NO connection will do. I will edit this post as I find out more things, but for now the motor/controller was as expected. EDIT 3/6/2019 Added 2 photos and a video. I am building an Electric mower and using this motor to power. While some will say it is under powered for the job. I intend to show that most electric conversions have been grossly over powering the electric motor. You really do not need that much. First a image of the original mower, had a 18-20hp Twin Cylinder engine that I got after a son drained the oil but had no replacement oil and left with friends. Dad came home and mower yard and burnt engine up. Chassis is in perfect shape. The video shows a test spin, with no load. It was running about 1/4 throttle. As you can see the chain was loose so I did not run it fast. I am working on a chain tension system and better motor mounting. Again, this was only a test. The third picture shows where I made my mistake of only using the bottom mounts, When I put the wheels on the ground the motor and torque literally bent the motor mount. Fixable though. Some points on my setup: 1. I am currently running my mower on (2) 24V - 2ah electric drill batteries connected in series. Once I get the motor mounted and wired I will build a more appropriate battery stack. 2. REVERSE: For reverse all that is needed is to wire a flip switch into the connector. When flipped turning the throttle gives you reverse. It is that simple. That is it for now. Next steps are to look into the braking system and brake lights, ect. Since there are no opposing connectors, I have to replace and rewire all of the connections. Someone asked a question about the throttle graph not working. It DOES. But you have to provide over 42V. If not, it will only display the battery symbol and bottom bar of power. That is the indication that the battery is dead. I am also planning to provide a complete set of plans on using this motor for a conversion if anyone is interested.

Motor is a beast I got the 1600w kit hooked up to 48v 30amps going about 50km on a Razor 350 first gen as it’s the biggest motor I can fit in the 350

i got a top speed of 50! perfect