Performax Type Ready to Cut Wrap Abrasive Sandpaper Rolls 3 inch by 35 feet Long for 16-32 Drum Sanders

I replaced the sandpaper i had always used from the machine manufacturer when a new roll developed a problem on the 3rd board i ran on it. I was using maple and it picked up something from a knot which transfered to everything i did after as a burn mark. I could not get it off the sandpaper until i used a sharp object on it. This paper loaded easier, was more consistent in sanding, no streak lines and 1/3 the cost of the original.

Sableuse à tambour

Good quality sanding paper.

Bought this for my performax 22/44. The sand paper itself is great quality. However, I had to toss the first 8 feet in the garbage because there was a seam 8 feet into the roll. Not sure if they expect customers to wrap these seams around a drum sander, but I sure wasnt about to. Pretty disappointing that they would package this up and send it off this way.

Not so hard to cut using your old strip as a guide and you save some money. The sandpaper seems like it is the same quality as the original. Now, if you are reading this you know these 15" Performax/Jet drum sanders are not all that easy to set up. They stall and trip the circuit, 1st on the drum motor and then the breaker. The wood tends to scorch and the sandpaper gets clogged up and is ruined, a problem that this cheaper sandpaper makes you feel better about.But, I came across a post in some forum someplace that I want to give credit to, but can't find again. This guy had some great ideas and they really work. I just finished a maple project, a stereo cabinet, and scorched it not once and sanded it evenly and without drama!This is how it came about:1st, unscrew that adjusting screw and remove the stupid spring. Put a 5/16th/24 nut and washer on the adjuster bolt, one above and one below the adjusting lever. The bolt is screwed back into the machine and it no longer used to adjust things, just serves as a threaded rod. The author suggested nyloc style nuts, but I couldn't find any and the regular ones seem fine. This allows you to adjust the drum in very fine increments and the adjustment won't change on you unless you really strain the drum to where things bend.Next, getting the drum parallel to the table, a monumental task.Just slightly loosen the pivot bolts, so that it can pivot but is not loose. Next, locate a metal bar, anything with parallel sides that can conduct electricity. Maybe rod, a plane on it side, etc. Raise the drum to clear this bar. Raise the little roller out of the way. You want only the main drum to contact the bar, not the pressure roller. I used hooks made from wire coat hangers. The author suggested tape.The adjustment requires an electric circuit and it was suggested that a battery, wires, alligator clips and a light was the way to do it. I simply used an cheap continuity tester that beeps when a circuit is completed. You attach one end of the tester to the drum (take off any sandpaper!) and the other to the bar. When you lower the drum and it touches the bar it completes the circuit and you get a beep or a light!This is far more precise than trying to see or feel the contact.Do the inner end of the drum first, then the outer. You will have to raise and lower the drum and adjust the nuts over and over and over before you get it exactly right. The good news is that you will possibly for the first time have it perfectly adjusted! Just a hair of a turn on the nuts changes everything. It can be made perfect. It is advised to have the outer setting just a teensy hair higher. Tighten the pivot bolts and check again.It probably took me at least an hour to do this. Don't force anything.Run the wood through so that the highest spot barely, barely touches. Set the belt feed at its higher setting. Lower the drum in very small increments. This means sending the wood through over and over and over again. Don't get antsy. Think of how much time it would take doing this by hand and how much longer it will take and how expensive it will be to burn the wood and clog up the sandpaper. Remember as the wood gets more level, more of the sandpaper contacts it and the more likely trouble will happen. Lower the drum very, very slightly each pass as you get to the end of the project.I had good luck starting with 80 grit, then 120 and then finally using a random orbit sander with 220 and 320. Even on hard maple the final sanding was pretty quick after a nice even drum sanding without cursed scorches that take forever to remove.It is highly recommended to rig up some decent dust control solution for both the drum and orbital sanders. Sanding dust is very bad for you and some people have life-altering problems from it.Wood never comes straight, so you really need to invest in a jointer to take out the concave side of a board and remove the twist. And then it really s a good idea to have a planer to then make the board sides parallel. Taking the remaining hump out of a board with a drum sander is begging for trouble. Of course the longer and wider the boards are the more trouble all this becomes and the more likely you will end up with expensive wood that is thinner than you want.Also, your glue-up procedure is very important. If the boards are of different heights then you will have to sand off all the high boards to the level of the low ones, on both sides. This is a lot of work and time, increases the possibility of drum sander drama, usually gives you a thin project as some large percentage of the wood has to be removed.You can't have too many clamps, of course, and ways to keep all of your glued-together boards even with each other. Try a few grains of on the glued edges. It keeps the boards from sliding around in the slippery glue.I suggest checking these adjustments at least between projects and half-way through big jobs, especially with irreplaceable wood.this got away from reviewing the sandpaper, but even magic sandpaper won't work unless you follow these steps.