AIMS Power 1000 Watt, 2000 Watt Peak, Pure Sine DC to AC Power Inverter, USB Port, 2 Year Warranty, Optional Remote, Listed to UL 458

This is my second one I purchased for my work trucks. These are set up in a box truck and I also purchased two remotes to be installed one was installed in the back of the box truck and the other remote was installed in the cab so I’m able to turn it on or off from both locations.

This review is for the "AIMS Power 3000 WATT Pure SINE Power Inverter".I have not used this much, so this is not a testimony to its reliability or longevity, but so far I have only set it up as a "proof of concept" for my RV. With only a single Flooded Lead Acid deep cycle battery (Deka Marine DP24 rated with 550 CCA) as a test mule, I was able to prove out two things: the ability of the inverter to start and run my A/C unit (just briefly, to prove the inverter could handle starting the compressor motor), and the ability of the inverter/battery combo to power my microwave for at least 5 minutes on full power without dying.The microwave owners manual says it takes a Supply Power of 1500W. I actually did the test with the microwave at 50% power (most or all microwave ovens accomplish this merely by turning it on at full power for 10-15 seconds, and then turning off the heater for the same amount of time, repeatedly for the full cook time you program). I did this because I only have the single battery described above and I didn't want to draw the full ~150A from it for 5 minutes straight, but rather intermittently over 10 minutes total. And I made sure to put a bowl of water in the oven so it would not heat while empty....The A/C unit label shows 12.8A for the compressor and 2.4A for the interior fan (maybe it's only 1.2A on the low setting - I will estimate - which is how I operated it). At those numbers, the A/C unit should be consuming about 1700W in steady state. Of course surge current to start the compressor was the greater challenge, but this inverter was able to do it - and I did not even need to use the inverter's "soft start" power-on feature (where one turns on the A/C unit first, THEN powers on the inverter, and the inverter ramps up its output voltage gradually). I was hoping I wouldn't need "soft start", because it would have been a nuisance to have to turn off and then power back on the inverter whenever the A/C compressor had to cycle on again.I did NOT try to run both the A/C and the microwave at the same time, that is more stress than I wanted to put on my little battery and I would rather test the inverter that way later when I obtain a couple of paralleled 100AH lithium batteries better rated for such a load. So, to anyone wanting this for the same purpose that I explained above, it looks like it's a go.I should note that this inverter - like most I've seen - has the heat sink cooling fins (to which the power transistors are all bolted to, up and down the length of the thing inside) oriented longitudinally. This is no surprise, you can see this on the photos of this and practically every other unit on the market. The manual says something like "don't mount upside down" which I really don't understand, because it has four fans inside which should be good to keep the thing running cool no matter what orientation it is used in. But, since the fans only turn on (and consume a little bit of extra power) when the unit heats up enough, it would actually be optimal to orient the thing vertically (the long dimension being vertical, that is) because air cooling works best when the fins are vertical and the air flows readily from bottom to top when the thing is warm or hot. The better cooling effect you can get from the heat sink cooling fins, the less often the fans will have to turn on, and also the more effective will be the cooling of the unit in any case. I just wanted to note that, even though I might not even be able to mount this thing vertically in my own rig as there probably isn't space to do so......You will probably want to get the remote control (not supplied). I'm not sure if it is simple enough to build one or if there is a more complicated circuit to hack if you want to build your own (the plug is a standard telephone RJ-11 so easy to obtain). But, since your inverter will probably not be accessible at the point of use of your appliance, it will sure be nice to be able to power it (or reset it, if you overwork it and drive it into overload/shutdown) without going over to the unit - wherever it is mounted - to accomplish that. I'm sure I will get a remote when I eventually mount this in my RV.As others discussing similar size power inverters have said, you'll want to at least double up 4 gauge cables (4 gauge is the easiest to obtain) because even running my microwave at 50% for those 5 minutes, my cables which were hanging in open air were noticeably warm from the intermittent ~150 amps flowing. Imagine the inverter is capable of nearly twice that current draw - continuously - and you would find a single 4 gauge cable not capable of safely handling that current without some kind of meltdown (twice the current generates FOUR TIMES the heat in any cable) and even moreso if the cable was not hanging in open air and couldn't easily dissipate all that heat. By the way, the standards for safe current capacity for a 4 gauge wire at ROOM temperature (i.e., not bundled with other wires in a confined space....) is something like 120A. Always check the temperature of all the high-current connections and cabling with everything running at full load for a long time and don't just take my word for it. Have fun and be safe.

We live where cold winters are expected and three-day power outages too common. Many residents have gasoline, propane, or diesel standby generators. We don't. Our radiant heating system relies on electricity for an oil furnace and water circulation, and it is nice to have refrigerator, TV and computers working. Some items may be sensitive to non-sine wave power.Our Toyota Prius has a 202 volt "traction" battery as well as a 12-volt auxiliary battery that is kept charged by a DC-DC converter. The traction battery is kept charged by the internal combustion engine (ICE) optimized for such use. At rest (assuming the power switch is on) the computer monitors the state of charge (SOC) and other parameters, running the ICE to keep the traction battery charged to a satisfactory level (40 - 80%).At present the inverter is in the Prius' cargo area hard-wired to the auxiliary battery terminals. There is a 120 amp fusible link in the Prius' circuit to the DC-DC converter, so it is advisable to limit current to the inverter to less than that. There is a 100-amp fusible link in the positive cable to the inverter but I plan to substitute a DC breaker and polarized plug-socket disconnect. In operation the car and inverter are turned on, and a heavy extension cord connected to the home heating system circuit though a switch that disconnects grid power to just that system (otherwise hardwired to the grid). Other appliances are connected via extension cords. In addition to making sure that total connected label wattage is below 1,000, AC amperage draw is sometimes monitored with an inline meter (keep below 8.5). The Prius is in our garage with an exhaust hose to the outside away from windows and doors (and we have a CO2 monitor in our living area). The ICE goes on to maintain SOC and at least one internal temperature, and we stay warm, entertained, and on-line! To prove it could be done, we have used the inverter to power an electric weed whacker along our private road! This set-up won't run anything requiring 220v (water well, electric range, dishwasher, etc.) nor typical laser printers, microwave ovens, etc.(November, 2014) The AIMS 1000 Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter being sold now is somewhat different than he unit reviewed, although the model name has not changed. It is physically different - shorter, some external features rearranged, different on/off and remote switches. I discovered this when my original unit failed and I bought a new one. A year ago I set up for an outage but power returned before I plugged in any load and I didn't disconnect the 12v cabling. It would not work for our first outage this season (which lasted about 21 hours), so I ordered a new one in time for the next outage, three days. We did find that it won't handle two refrigerators at the same time, so we shared. I had read some criticism of earlier AIMS unit workmanship. I opened the failed unit and could see nothing obvious, although some evidence of heat (they do get warm, and there is a thermostatic cooling fan).If you are using this with a Prius be sure the heater and air conditioner are turned off - otherwise the car gets warm and you are wasting gas. I think we used less than two gallons for the last referred to three days.

Mine didn’t come with a free remote, as advertised. Found out in the user manual, the remote is an optional equipment & not needed? Unfortunately this inverter was not able run even a very small load, because it heated up & because the fan didn’t work, it started to smell like burnt wire. I dicided to return it. Before maling it off, I contacted amazon by phone. Their customer service was very sympathetic, when I explained my issue & offered to email me an return label. Great service. Thank you.have been very pleased with the amazon services.

Works great

Easy to install and works great in our 5th trailer. Would be nice to have the remote included rather than purchased separately.

Did not come with the remote as advertised??? Have not tried the product yet but it did not come as advertised. Be wary.