Replacement for GoodmanSingle Pole / 1 Pole 30 Amp Condenser Contactor B1360321 by Replacement for Goodman

This time last year, the condenser unit (the part of the central air conditioning system that's outside, next to the house) of my older central AC started getting stuck "on". The house cooled to the temperature set on the thermostat, and the forced air blower turned off like it should But the outside unit wouldn't shut off until I turned off the breaker. This happened randomly a couple of times over the cooling season, but each time it did, it wasted 2000 to 3000 of watts every hour. That adds up!One common cause of this sort of problem is a sticking contactor. The contactor is what turns the power to your AC condenser on and off when your thermostat tells it to. The contactor is inside a small panel on our AC condenser (the fan box that's on the outside of your house). It has several wires that connect to it: a pair of thick high voltage wires on the input side that come from a disconnect box, some thick high voltage wires on the output side that go to the fan and the compressor, a pair of low-voltage wires that come from your thermostat, and often a wire that goes to a large capacitor nearby. (By the way, all of these can contain dangerous amounds of electricity, even when the power is off, so hands off unless you know what you're doing.)Last year, I tried to fix this problem without replacing anything. This is a job that I felt OK with tackling because my DIY skills are at the level that includes things like attaching a cord to an electric dryer or replacing a light switch.First, I turned off the AC at the thermostat. (CAREFUL! This doesn't turn off the high voltage power in the AC condenser.) Then I opened the access panel on the condenser and gently thumped the contactor with a wooden cooking spoon (because wood doesn't conduct electricity). The contactor unstuck and the AC unit turned off. That confirmed that my contactor was the problem.Then I turned off the power to the AC at the breaker panel and at the disconnect box, and I carefully isolated the capacitor. I then used compressed air to clean out any spiders or other crud that could be jamming the contactor. I then used WD-40 Specialist Contact Cleaner Spray https://amzn.to/3JPJrDD and a long cotton swab to clean things out. Then I sprayed some electrical lubricant https://amzn.to/44wsZAb on the moving parts of the contactor. Then I reconnected the capacitor, closed everything up and powered the system on again.This worked for several months, but the problem came back again this year, and was even more stubborn. I read from several sources that the best fix is to just replace the contactor. After verifying the part numbers, I bought this new Climatec contactor replacement. It arrived in a couple of days.Swapping out the old contactor just involved the same safety steps (turn off ac at the thermostat, breaker panel and shutoff box, isolate capacitor). I unscrewed the old contactor from the wall of the AC condenser and screwed the new one into the same place. Then it was just a matter of swapping out each wire, one at a time, to the same place on the new contactor.After reattaching the capacitor, I powered up the system and checked my work. Everything worked fine. I finished up by putting the access panel back.

Delivered quickly and it was really easy to install. Did one wire at a time, until all wires were transferred and it worked great. The previous one hadn’t failed, but it was showing a lot of corrosion (it was 16 years old). By doing the replacement myself I saved over $250. Seems to be a quality replacement, but time will tell.

Works instantly, fixed my slow responding relay or sometimes no response. Someone wrote a review that this was useless because it didn't have screw terminal. Easy fix if you buy 2 crimp terminal connectors and crimp them on.

Careful research needs to be done with your outside Air conditioner Unit as to whether or not this is the item for you. Our Unit was a Goodman Air Conditioner, 3 ton. It has worked perfectly now since purchased several years ago.

easy installation

Item sent was double pole double throw. I was confused but youtube showed the wiring arrangement to be the same. So far works fine.

I bought this with an Amazon headline "Replacement for Goodman Single Pole / 1 Pole 30 Amp Condenser Contactor B1360321." It is a two pole product, but everything I've read suggests that a two-pole can replace a one-pole...you just don't hook up the second pole.Anyway, my outdoor unit is a very old Trane that has had its contactor replaced, probably many times. The existing contactor is a Goodman Single Pole / 1 Pole 30 Amp Condensor with model number B1360321, just as in the headline for this product.However, the screw connections on my existing contactor are different than on this model, which I only realized after purchase. When purchasing, I was just looking for screws and terminals in all the right places, and the correct electrical ratings. As a DIY-er, I did not know there would be different screw types for different wire connectors on my unit.On mine, the wires that connect to the screws on the contactor have eyelets at the end. "Ring terminals" I think they are called. My Goodman B1360321 contactor has regular screws. You put the screw through the eyelets and then screw them into the contactor so the head of the screw causes the metal on the ring terminals to connect with the contactor's metal, forming the electrical connection.As you can see in the Amazon product picture, if you know what you are looking for (which I did not), the screws don't work that way on this product. On this product, the screws are built in. You can't see this from the picture, but your wire must be inserted at the bottom of the screw. The screw is then tightened to push the screw down ON TOP OF the wire. The screw is flat on the bottom, does not have a head, and does not screw INTO the contactor...it just smushes the wire down onto the metal of the contactor, kind of like a clamp. I don't know what kind of wire ending this screw expects you to have...possibly bare wire with no connector on the end?If I'm not being clear, the difference is that on my B1360321 the screw has a head, designed to be put THROUGH the eyelet and then screwed it INTO the contactor. By contrast, on this model, the screw has no head (it is built into the contactor) and is used like a clamp. You slide wires UNDERNEATH the screw, and the flat bottom of the screw smushes the wires DOWN ONTO the metal of the contactor.Why does it matter? An electrical connection is an electrical connection, after all, and both screw systems make electrical connections.Well, you won't be putting the screw from this product through an eyelet at the end of your wire, if you have ring terminal connections. This product does not accommodate ring terminals. Theoretically, instead of putting a screw through the eyelet, you could just slide your eyelet into the slot at the bottom of this product, and just clamp the screw DOWN ONTO the eyelet. That would make an electrical connection. There's nothing magic about the hole in the eyelet...you're just trying to connect metal to metal. The problem is that the slot on the bottom of this product is not wide enough for you to slide the ring terminal into. It just won't fit. You are going to have to modify your wire or buy a different product.I'm a DIY-er, so I'm not qualified to provide electrical advice -- consult a professional -- but I will explain the process I went through:(1) I considered taking the ring terminals off my wires and sliding bare wires into the screw/clamp system of this product. I chickened out on this method, because (a) I wasn't sure if that would work and (b) would it be dangerous to have the bare wires under there (e.g., what if they got wet during a rainstorm...shouldn't happen, but maybe)? Plus, to do that I would have had to trim some of the wire and strip more insulation, but my unit does not have any slack in the wires. I don't have any wire to spare.(2) I then considered sending the product back and ordering a different one, but since I bought this for an immediate repair because my contactor was sticking (and I have been waking up in the middle of the night for a week to unstick it so the outside unit does not freeze over), I had to fix the AC immediately. I could not wait a week for another product to arrive.(3) What I ended up doing was crimping the ring terminals on my wires by bending them just enough to fit in the bottom slot of this product, so that I could them clamp them down with the screw. It was not pretty -- I kind of bent them into a V shape, and it took quite a bit of fiddling. I had particular difficulty on one screw where two wires/ring terminals went through the same screw on my existing unit....easily done with ring terminals; but once I bent them to fit in the slots on this product, they were a bit too "tall" when stacked on top of each other -- it's hard to get the two V shapes to fit together perfectly -- so it was quite a challenge to get both of those in the slot. It all seems to have worked in the end, but again, not elegant.So, the product works and was in good shape upon receipt. It appears to be well-made. It CAN replace Goodman Contactor B1360321 because it has all the right places to connect and the correct electrical ratings. However, I cannot say it WILL replace Goodman Contactor B1360321. It is by no means plug and play, because the screw connectors on this product are not the same as on Goodman Contactor B1360321...which means the wires on your outdoor unit, which obviously work with Goodman Contactor B1360321 currently, will need to be adapted for the screw connectors on this product.

Received quickly and ahead of schedule! Easy to install, seems to be well built with high quality components. I would definitely recommend this seller and their parts to my friends and family!!