🔩 Fix it like a pro—never let a leak hold you back!
The Best Q M15 x 1.5MM Oil Drain Plug Tap Thread Repair Kit is designed for efficient repair of damaged oil drain threads. This comprehensive kit includes a precision tap, six screws, and six aluminum gaskets, making it perfect for sump, gearbox, and differential applications. With no batteries required, it's a straightforward solution for maintaining your vehicle's performance.
Product Dimensions | 10.01 x 8.99 x 3 cm; 340 g |
Batteries required | No |
S**S
Great product that saved me a lot of time and money (so far)
I used this kit to create a permanent solution for my leaking drain plug, here's what I did.Vehicle 2000 Acura 3.2tlI had a leaking drain plug after a visit to the jiffy lube. At first I was mad at them but after research it may not have been their fault. These drain pans are weak on this engine and it seems like its just a matter of time. I needed the fix the issue so I used an oversize plug. That worked until it didn't and the leak began again after a few oil changes. This time I bought one of those piggyback drain plugs. I used JB weld and some rtv to stop the leak and prevent the insert from coming loose. It worked for a while again but the problem was it kept coming loose! Every time I removed the piggyback it would move a little until the leak returned. I tried tightening again but the threads were too far gone. I kicked myself for not using red loctite when I did the initial install. That was my other idea but I thought the JB weld/RTV combo would be better, I was wrong. I wasn't going to make the same mistake again.The oversize drain plug was too small at this point and the threads would not grip. I bought this kit and decided to make my own piggypack drain plug. I chucked it up in my lathe and drilled out the center. I used a 1/8 npt thread tap in the hole and picked up a plug from the hardware store that fit it. I used the kit as described except I used red loctite. So far I have no leaks but I haven't tried to remove the piggyback yet. The red loctite should hold the plug in and allow me to remove the piggyback plug without the whole plug moving. Time will tell if this solution is the end but if not I will have to do a Helicoil or Timesert. If I was to do it over again, I would have used red Loctite on the original piggyback and never used the first oversized plug, I think that would have solved the problem. Instead, I went with JB weld and RTV which only lasted a little while.I hope this helps someone else in my situation. If you use the piggyback with red loctite from the start you should be ok. The loctite seals the threads and keeps them from moving. Loctite 271 is very strong so you shouldn't have an issue. If you don't use threadlock on the piggyback you risk it coming loose and the leak returning. Loctite 272 is thicker and may be a better option but I didn't have any do I wasn't able to try it. Good luck in treating your leaking drain plug!
K**N
Perfect for retreading stripped sump in my case..
This is perfect for if you have stripped a thread!! I had to rethread my sump plug with it and it has worked out fine in the end.. I did have a very small leak after doing it as I didnt rethread it perfectly straight as its hard to do on your back under a car. But I used a bit of ptfe tap on my washer and has sealed perfect now so would recommend definitely.I also have no experience with doing this but I managed so its not so bad.
B**N
Works great for Honda oil pan with stripped 14mm hole
I read all the reviews about this kit. I have a 2010 Honda Odyssey that supposedly needed a new oil pan. Plug was stripping the threads on the oil pan and leaking a bit of oil. I found this and decided to try it. The included tap worked great. Once tapped, I poured oil in to clean out any shavings and there were a lot that came out. As the oil was draining I put my finger over the hole, then removed it and that technique would push out shavings so I did that a few times until there weren't any more coming out. Even used a few Q-tips after that but it was clean. The aluminum crush washers that come on the bolts are a little thin but I decided to go ahead and use it anyway. Many reviewers advised getting different crush washers. I noticed before installing that the crush washers were a little rough on one side and that may cause a leak. I had some fine sandpaper nearby so I sanded the rough side until smooth, put it on, tightened it up, put in the new oil, and let the van run for about 15 minutes. Came out to do my final check underneath and there was no oil at all coming out from the bolt/washer. Very pleased with this kit since it saved me from replacing the oil pan.
J**.
Simple to use, works perfectly
Works perfectly. Stripped the original threads in my motorbike sump, used the tap to cut up to the next size and installed the supplied plug. Easy, took a few minutes.Screw it in a couple turns then back it out, clear the swarf off and in you go again.
M**E
Useful tool
rethreading went smoothly(confirmed with an endoscope camera), but the washer couldn't stop the leak, I changed to m14 nissan washer(modified), still no success, eventually I got it done with a cheap O ring from hardware store.My vehicle is honda pilot 2006, m15 bolt plus o ring, the torque was 20 ft/lbs.
Trustpilot
3 days ago
1 month ago