The Original, Patented, UL/CSA Approved Manual Transfer Switch - Made in the USA

The components are well built The switch itself seems heavy duty Got some heft to it. It’s built with copper wire. Not aluminum like the others. The unit as a whole is UL/ETL certified. Very important to be code compliant for both safety, inspection and homeowners insurance. Comes with an offset nipple and wire nuts. Nice tidy looking box made in the USA by a master electrician. That said there are some sticking points. Know your generator. Either a bonded or floating neutral. It comes setup, as is, for a bonded generator. If you have a floating generator, then theres a bit of rewiring, but it’s easy. NEVER USE A BONDING PLUG. Illegal and dangerous to life and property. The instructions could be more DIY friendly. They seem to be written for other electricians. The company does have a YouTube channel showing installation, but they could be clearer. Customer service is very helpful. The pig tails are about 24” long 12 gauge STRANDED copper. Most likely to clamp onto the female spades in the build. Stranded copper can be difficult to work with for the DIYer when using wire nuts. I used lever style wire connectors. Much easier. Also if connecting to an outlet, make sure to use one that uses side wiring. Can’t use stranded with the terminal screws. The instructions state that the wire connections need to be made outside the box. This is due to the components (inlet, switch, breaker) have spade connectors and take up all the room in the box. No room for wire nuts and extra wire. That’s why you get the offset nipple. You’ll need a metal handy box with a cover. You CAN NOT use a plastic box. The wires from the panel have to pass through the switch metal box and into the handy box to make the connections. From the handy box, out to the load. The outer sheath of the Romex has to be removed of the length inside of the switch box into the 2nd box. The exposed wires have to be encased in the offset nipple. However there maybe a problem depending on your particular situation, like mine. I was tapping into the line in the basement to my refrigerator. The wires are all exposed but very little slack. Since the wires from the panel need to pass through the switch box into the handy box that’s a problem. Not enough wire to work with. You’ll either need to run a longer wire to the load (outlet, heating system). That can be costly and a pain. Easiest option is to use wire butt connectors and lengths of wire to extend them. In my case I added an outlet in the basement just outside the switch box. Using pig tails off of the outlet, I made the wire connections in the switch box adding a 4” box extension ring on the switch box. This gives plenty of room for the wire connections and components in the one box. And it’s a lot easier. Costs the same as a handy box and cover. A little preplanning goes a long way. And plan on a trip or two or three or more to the home improvement store. Like every other home project. I connected one to the circuit to my refrigerator and an other one to my furnace. Both work flawlessly. I tested both hookups with generator for 15 mins to insure it’s done right. Very pleased with the product as a whole.

Was looking for a way to run my gas furnace during a power outage. I wanted the option to use my Jackery power station or a gas generator. I saw many videos online showing different ways to achieve my objective, and the EZ Generator Switch seemed to be the most attractive and efficient method I came across. The simplicity of installation was another huge plus. Jackery power stations have a floating neutral. So as per the EZ Switch instructions, I rewired the EZ. I mounted the switch on the wall next to my furnace shutoff switch and connected the EZ wires inside the shutoff switch box. I replaced the plastic box that the shutoff switch was in for a metal box. If I had to do it over, I would have gotten a bigger box for the shutoff switch. The box I purchased made it very difficult to fit all the wires inside. Anyway, once everything was mounted and connected, I ran a cable from the EZ to my Jackery 1000 Pro. Happily, everything worked flawlessly. I saw one online video installation in which the EZ Switch was being used with the Jackery Explorer 1000. The furnace wouldn’t fire up and displayed an error. The guy ended up using a neutral grounding plug to solve the problem. I didn’t have that same problem, and I think it’s because I rewired the EZ for the floating neutral. Just for reference, here is my testing scenario. My home temperature was 73 degrees. Once I had the EZ set up and the Jackery 1000 Pro connected, I set the thermostat to 75 degrees. While on standby, the furnace was drawing about 5 watts. The next stage, as the furnace started engaging, the furnace showed a total draw of about 270 watts. Once the furnace was fully engaged and heating, it was drawing about 650 watts. To begin the test, my Jackery had a 75% charge. It took the furnace 15 minutes to warm the house from 73 to 75 degrees, and the furnace was drawing a steady 650 or so watts for the entire 15 minutes. Once the furnace completed the cycle, my Jackery was at 60%. By the way, the outside temperature was in the mid fifties, and it was late afternoon. The furnace didn’t come back on for about three hours. So the Jackery 1000 Pro should give me a good bit of backup power time, even if the outside temperature was lower. Nevertheless, to be well covered I purchased the Jackery 2000 Plus.

This device works great for easily transitioning my outdoor wood burner from line power to generator power. The item is well built and includes all necessary instructions to install. If you can replace an electrical outlet on your own you will be able to install this device. On the downside it is a bit over priced for what it is but in my opinion well worth the extra cost in peace of mind.

I have an electrical background (though not a licensed electrician), so installation took me only 15–20 minutes. I modified the line-side feed to power my condensate pump’s 120V receptacle first, then continued into the switch. After that, I followed the clear instructions exactly. All terminals are well-marked with plenty of room. Flipped the switch to “NORMAL” and the furnace fired right up. Flipped it to “GENERATOR,” plugged in my 7500 W portable generator, and everything ran flawlessly with no issues. Clean design, solid build, and fully code-compliant. Excellent value and exactly what I wanted. Highly recommend.

My heating system is a gas fired boiler with hot water baseboard. We have had multiple lengthy the power outages, but the natural gas never failed. In order to run the heat you still need 120 V at a couple hundred watts to enable the gas valve and run the circulating pump and zone valves. My system was hardwired, so there was no way to power it during a power failure. I added one of these right next to the boiler emergency off switch. It was dead simple to install. The kit is all metal and comes with everything you need including a short conduit stub, grounding wires, and wire nuts. I am a DIYer but not an electrician and the whole thing took me maybe an hour to install. The instructions are clear and the company provides numerous videos online that show you exactly what to do. The wire leads are marked with tags so it’s dead simple to install. Once you’re done, you have a plug that accepts the female end of an extension cord where you can connect to a 120V battery power station or a generator. It is UL and CSA listed for safety and code compliance. It is made in the USA by a small company that employs veterans and who actually pick up the phone when you call for help. If you need to add back up power availability to your heating system or to any hardwired device that is 120 V, get yourself one of these. You won’t be sorry.

I purchased this manual transfer switch for my gas furnace. I chose EZ switch since it was relatively easy to install, designed to switch the neutral and had a UL certification. The 2200W Honda inverter generator(EU2200i) I utilize does not have a the neutral bonded to ground. To protect the generator against a miswired extension cord or some other issue it is best practice to switch both the hot and the neutral. To provide redundent protection against failure of the EZ switch; I replaced the furnace switch with a dpdt switch and had it break both the hot and neutral. This dpdt switch provided the primary feed to the EZ Generator Switch. This makes more sense than a switch just ahead of the furnace as shown in the EZ switch wiring diagram. I would of liked to of had the wires longer than the 24” provided with the EZ Switch. I was forced to butt spice another 12” on. There are 2 white wire utilized. I would of liked if one of them a stripe to indicate the differences rather than a tag. I wish the wiring diagram had numbers identifying the wires in addition to tags. This way if you extended the wires you could number tag the wires. This is an expensive switch for what it is but it seems built well. The UL certification does not guarantee the quality of the switch but merely that certain standards were met. EZ switch company paid a lot for the certification which likely contributed to the high cost.

This is a solidly made generator transfer switch that has a high-quality feel to it. I just installed it inline for my gas boiler furnace in case I ever need to run the furnace via generator, so I can't comment on how well it works yet. I chose this brand over others on Amazon because it's UL listed and from an American company... I didn't want to trust a generic device of unknown origin around a gas furnace. It was relatively easy to install (definitely watch the videos on the company's website), although you should have at least a baseline comfort with working with house wiring. The kit came with everything needed, including wire nuts, the mounting box, and even a short piece of conduit to connect to an existing safety switch box. My only (kinda) complaint is that the wiring EZ uses is stranded copper and not solid copper, like most house wiring Romex, making it a bit harder to wire-nut the two types of wire together.

January of 2023. Still the best U.L. approved one circuit solution out there. You will see a copy-cat knock-off for around $15 less. DO NOT BUY IT. It is NOT a safe product and has no certifications. The listing does not claim to be UL listed but inquiries to the seller show no proof of it. If you read the description of the knock-off they even copy the listing almost word for word. It is not worth placing your safety at risk. 11/10/2020 $5 cheaper if you buy directly from seller and it is shipped by them regardless of where you purchase it. 11/05/2020 update. I received a reply back on my email describing my issue that I resolved on my own. This is a legit seller. They will assist if your questions are legit and not way out there (you best hire an electrician.) No one wants you to be injured due to your lack of understanding. 6 out of 5 stars for me. 11/04/2020 update: I have 2 generators for my power failure situations one 4000 watt open frame that has a bonded neutral. And I have a 1800/2250 watt inverter with the floating neutral. I want to run my furnace and electronics on the inverter. Say the furnace cycles every 30 minutes depending upon mother-nature there is 25 minutes of downtime where the ECO mode will run ever so quietly powering the electronics (routers, bridges and networked drives....etc. ) when the open frame unit will be going full throttle load or no load. Problem is my furnace does not like the floating neutral. I emailed EZ Generator to describe the scenario with no reply. I suppose legally they have to be careful providing solutions. I recalled I had an Isolation Transformer of medical grade I picked up as it was being disposed of (brand new) that has sat for 10 years forgotten. I plugged my TrippLite ISOBar surge protector into the Inverter and the Fault light was on. I ran the washing machine earlier going thru the same model surge protector and it worked find despite it recognizing the floating neutral and it did not like it. Isolation transformer in place the output side of the transformer is bonded. I run my cord from there to the furnace and BINGO it runs fine off of the inverter. And if it didn't my plan was to still use this device to clean up the dirty power feeding my furnace. The furnace ran fine off of the open frame generator. But I was wondering if there are any long term concerns sending dirty power to it. My furnace is not one of the latest high tech units. It does have a controller that looks like it wants clean power. I just want to back off on the fuel consumption during the time when the furnace is not running. And we have enough computer electronics in the house that really calls for clean power even though they are all low wattage devices. I realize I am fortunate to have acquired a device at the best possible cost-basis as in free. And that device is valued around $350 taking in power from an Inverter that costs only around $150 more. So for the average person looking for a cheap solution this is out of the question. If you have a very high-end Inverter and do not want to play with using up one of the outlets with a plug crossed between the neutral and ground for me an Isolation Transformer solved the problem. I used the 'How to connect the switch to existing equipment' video to allow me to successfully complete this project. Now that I have verified the generator running the furnace worked flawlessly I am ready to post this review. The furnace kill switch and he EZ Generator switch in the attached photo above are both mounted on the cold air return on the furnace. Some comments from customers indicate that they are confused that older versions of this switch shipped with the ground wire as a green wrapped wire. Now they ship with a bare copper wire. They are the same lead and need to be handled as the same ground wire. I used a sharpie to mark the Neutral Load and I am glad I did since when I was feeding the leads thru the connector the tags ripped off. This is a great device that fits my needs exactly as I had hoped. As I said I watched the "Kevin" video over and over. My dad was the electrician not me. The online tutorials are very good. It is a product I hope I will not have to use. In 25+ years in my house there was only one power outage where I relied on the wood stove for heat. No electricity meant radiant heat the 2 blower motors on the wood stove were useless. Even if only for peace-of-mind I am glad I did this simple project.

Installed this on our furnace recently so that we can keep it running with a generator in the event of a power outage. Works like a charm, tested it with our Anker Solix C2000 Gen 2. Installation was quick and easy. Fantastic device and we're ready for any power outage in the winter now.

I'm using this to switch my home refrigerator from grid to generator power in the event of a power outage. It does the job safely, and beautifully. Comes as advertised with everything prewired for a switched neutral connection, and useful inclusions like the offset nipple and wire nuts. There were a few minor differences from what I saw demonstrated in the manufacturer's YouTube videos, such as the wires not coming pre-skinned, ground wire not being wired to the box, and no more printed instruction sheet, only a QR code linking to their online documentation.

This works great on my high efficiency furnace. Using an Anker Solex generator, with foating neutrals . Highly recommend this transfer switch.

If you are in Canada order this through "fulfilled by amazon" or order from the USA Amazon site directly. Some listings on CA site are drop shipping. As advertised, takes into account generators with floating neutrals which is a big safety concern provides clear instructions and has several good installation videos on their website. This product helps you keep the heat on without the danger of back feeding which is also illegal. A big safety improvement for those of us with smaller generators or power packs that don't have a whole house system. I think they are very well made, cover seems to be powder coated, components have proper ratings for current flow and safety ratings including motor rated switches, connections inside are proper heat rated stranded wire with crimp connectors. While it seems a little expensive, if you price out the individual cost of components and the cost and time to manufacture it is pretty reasonable in my view.

Product works as intnded. Easy to install and wire. I had to use the floating neutral wiring due to using it with a Champion genny. The surprise came when the generator went into protection mode when using generator power. The switch was miswired from factory with street power switched with the load. After proper wiring all works well. One star less due to quality control issue.