EATON CHSPT2ULTRA Ultimate Surge Protection 3rd Edition, 2.38" Length, 5.25" Width 7.5" Height

Why so difficult? The leads are quite short. I planned to mount the unit through a punchout in the bottom of the panel. I quickly realized the leads would not reach without extending them. However, there was plenty of room inside the panel. I mounted it at the top beside the main breaker. Even at that, it was s stretch for the white wire to reach the Neutral bar. I also had to move a neutral wire down one screw to make the top connection available. Drilling the holes for the screws through the main panel was not easy. The panel is made of a very hard steel. To be sure the screws secured tightly, I drilled smaller holes and kept enlarging them until I got just the right size.I had also planned in piggybacking to the range breaker. Once I pulled the breaker, I discovered very heavy gauge wire connected and sealed with dielectric grease. Rather than mess with that I ran to Ace and bought a 50 amp breaker, which would be to code anyway. Then as I was reassembling the panel, I realized there would be no way to monitor the LED's without removing the panel cover. I had to carefully measure and drill two holes in the cover that lined up with the LED's. The old measure twice thing did not come into play here because the cover shifts position once installed. I ended up drilling FOUR holes and covering two with duct tape. Not electrical tape? No, because the electrical tape is black, and does not match the panel. Well, that and, I'm a guy. Guys use duct tape. It's a guy thing, you wouldn't understand. So that's a total of eight holes drilled through hardened steel, and a few of those were drilled three times to get the right size without stripping. Wiring the unit was very quick and easy and had the leads been long enough, mounting would have been just as easy. It was mounting the unit that was so time and labor intensive.Now that it's done though, I am very pleased with the installation, as is my wife because nothing is visible from the outside when the panel door is closed.As for the function of the device, I have seen the internal components. The MOV's are extremely beefy! I can't imagine typical surges or spikes ever damaging this thing. I would expect it to work forever unless we get hit by lightning. And that's the biggest reason for it. Should that happen, we'll have more to worry about. But I imagine between this unit and plug-in surge suppressors inside, our electronics should survive. Let's not test that theory, but this device is insurance. Also, normal daily surges and spikes do not necessarily damage equipment but their effect is cumulative. Eventually, the electronics will fail. This device, in combination with the normal surge suppressors, should extend the life of my equipment. This is definitely something NO home should be without! Why are these not required by code?

I recommend it. This item has a history of good performance. I added it as increased protection over what the electrician installed when we built the house. I told the electrician he did a great job wiring my house (I inspected it as the house was being built), and because I was nice to him, he installed a 5K device in the outside box for free, which provides minimal protection (some, but not enough to make me comfortable). So, I got this Eaton device for extra protection at 108K and put it in the box in the garage. I didn't have room to put it inside the box, so I installed directly to the side of the box (see picture). Super easy to install. As other reviews mention, you need a 50A breaker, so read the product instructions and get exactly what the instructions say to get. And as some other reviews mention, nothing will protect from a direct lightning strike, so don't expect that kind of protection. At 108K (more than 20 times the protection of the 5K device in the outside box), this unit gives me peace of mind. Notice in the picture the two green lights are lit, which means it's functioning properly. I like how I can see it easily whenever I'm in the garage. I drive into the garage and think, "Yep, still protected."I forgot to mention...before you go buy the 50amp breaker, FIRST check your load center (i.e., panel box) to see what type it is, such as, for example, QO or Homeline. If, for example, you buy an HOM 50amp breaker, it won't fit in a QO panel, and vice versa.And, just so you know, the wires are supposed to be short. Some reviewers complain about them being too short such that the unit doesn't fit in their panel. The wires are short for a reason; if you extend the wires beyond their limited length, you risk the device not functioning properly when you need it. So, just because you might not understand the design (e.g., why the wires are so short), don't complain and bash the device as being a poor design.

Installed this unit after multiple appliances were affected by several surges during a couple of storms. Although there was significant lightening, I think the surges were caused by power from the utility going out and coming back on several times. It didn’t cause instant death to any of my equipment but over the next weeks, my control board went out on a sub zero fridge, then my microwave had an arc and went out, then the dishwasher control board failed, and finally a capacitor on my heat pump went out. I doubt it was coincidental so I purchased the Eaton unit to help arrest future surges that could affect the appliances since I do not have surge protectors installed at the appliance outlets. I selected this unit because the protection specs were better than the others with the exception of Siemens. Since the Eaton is half the price and only slightly less capable than the competitor unit...I decised this was a high quality unit for a great price. I had an electrician install the unit — charged $125 and took him maybe 30m. Looked pretty straightforward to do but I wasn’t comfortable working in the breaker box and learning on the job while handling live wires. Hopefully this unit helps with future surges although next time the power goes out, I will probably also switch off the main breaker until the power is restored as an extra precaution. I never fully believed that surges were a real issue but after replacing the dishwasher and microwave plus fixing the subzero and hvac....I am a believer. Although, I am still a little concerned that the VPR for whole house protectors is still >= 600V which would imply a 350V VPR on a surge protector at the outlet would give better protection for the appliances. Hopefully Eaton keeps me protected and for the electronics where the outlets are more easily accessible...I installed level 3 outlet / strip plug surge protectors.