Water Connection, Water Heater Drain Valve, Turbo Flush ¾'' Full Port 3'' Stainless Steel Nipple, Straight Design for Max Sediment Removal & Enhanced Water Flow, Extends Tank Life with Water Cleaning

I thought it was a little on the expensive side when I purchased this but I must say the quality is great. You can feel the quality as soon as you pick it up. Heavy, solid brass and the inside diameter is genuinely full port.

This made flushing my water heater so easy. Installation was a snap, just keep a couple towels handy to mop up the little bit of water that comes out during the install. Can't believe how much sediment was in my WH after trying to flush with the original valve, now the recovery time for the WH is faster! I will be transferring this to my replacement when that time comes.

The valve has a full size port inside, maximizing the outflow and presenting really no restriction at all to the drain. The short piece of pipe is a dielectric nipple, meaning it's plastic inside and once you tighten it down, the two metal surfaces don't contact each other, so no dissimilar metal corrosion occurs. The ball valve works smoothly. And I really appreciate the bronze cap w/ chain so it doesn't get lost. If that ball valve accidentally got knocked, a tight cap would prevent any water from getting out of the heater. And you can remove the handle for more safety if you want.I removed a 2010 plastic water heater drain without it breaking, and installed one of these which made it super easy to drain. And much faster to drain as well. That could be handy in case you needed to drain the tank in a hurry in an emergency. After draining the tank, I used a metal water heater flush tool to spray all over the inside of the tank thru the two heating element holes (electric water heater).You need to use teflon tape on the two threaded surfaces, being sure to wrap it in the right direction. I use and like the Blue Monster PTFE tape. It's a lot thicker than usual. The only hard part was screwing the valve in without destroying the aluminum drain pan for the water heater.Installing this valve makes draining the tank a snap. Just hook up a garden hose, run the end of the hose to a lower elevation, close the fresh water inlet valve, open a hot water faucet or two, and open the drain valve. Don't forget to shut off the power to the water heater first!

Will never own another water tank without one of these. I have neglected my well water hot water tank for years as the drain valve was a piece of crap and the valve knob was broken. I upgraded my water system with a name brand filter/softening system and my water guy informed me that I could buy an aftermarket valve in brass. I searched local hardware store but they were out of stock. I went with this one from Amazon as it has a straight shaft that will make it easier to get a hose on. This thing is super heavy duty and leak free. Will now be able to flush my water tank every six months without hassle and worry of breaking the original plastic valve that came installed on the tank. Pics are gross but shows what a well water sediment from a tank looks like after 15 years of NOT flushing it so please drain those tanks on a regular basis folks!

Flushed water heater with original plastic valve in place and water was clear. Put on new valve and flushed again and water was brown. It cleared out all of the sediment quickly. It is a well built valve. See videos for the flushing.

My water heater is years past its 9 year warranty. We have very hard water. For several years the water heater has been making a sound like a popcorn maker when the burner fired up. I had never drained it and didn't think I'd get very far with the original plastic 1/4" drain valve. Sure enough, when I wanted to drain it to install this flush valve almost nothing would come out though the valve did turn. I used a multi-saw and a compact hack saw to remove the plastic one. That I had a drain pan under the water heater was helpful, but it took buckets and containers and funnels of various sizes to manage the water flow once I got the old valve out. The ability to quickly shut off the flow with the new flush valve was a boon to getting through this. Getting the calcium and, I suspect, magnesium deposits from the anode rod cleaned out took some repeated back and forth turning the water on and partially filling the heater then opening the flush valve and I never got all of it out. That would have required I undo the intake or outflow pipes on the top of the heater and insert a hose. I'm saving that for the next flush. But there's no more popcorn sound. The combined nipple and brass valve is a big heat sink so I used some pipe insulation to contain that. Recommend you consult various YouTubers experience replacing their drain valve.

Strong, durable, and useful! This was the best upgrade I could have ever installed on my water heater!

The Valve itself is great. It was missing the extension pipe which I went down to home Depot and purchased.